FW
Despite unfavourable market conditions, Lenzing Group, the world’s leading producer of man-made cellulose fibres, achieved results in line with expectations in the first three quarter of 2013. This can be attributed to the counter measures which are already underway. The consolidated sales amounted to €1,447.0 million, a decline of 7.7 per cent from the comparable level of €1, 567.5 million in the previous year. Consolidated earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) continued to be at a good level, amounting to €223.8 million in the first nine months of 2013, a drop of 20.5 per cent from the prior-year figure of €281.5 million.
This comprised an EBITDA margin of 15.5 per cent (Q1-3/2012: 18.0 per cent). Earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) in the first nine months of the year fell by 33.0 per cent to €136.4 million.
In the light of the ongoing difficult market situation, Lenzing has decided to proactively implement a massive, far-reaching cost optimization program. The initiative will enable cost savings of €120 million per annum until 2015 as a means of safeguarding Lenzing’s cost leadership on the global market for man-made cellulose fibers. In this way Lenzing is responding to the current difficult market environment, which has led to increasingly fierce price competition.
Exports of pashmina from Nepal, has grown by double digit during the first two months of the current fiscal year that began on July 15 over the same period last year. Nepal’s pashmina exports to countries other than India shot up by 43.9 per cent during the two-month period with Germany, France, Italy, UK and US being the major destinations.
The registration of the chyangra pashmina trademark in 41 countries is one of the reasons for an increase in exports of Nepali pashmina products. Chyangra pashmina of Nepal is relatively expensive than those sourced from other countries, and hence its demand was affected due to economic slowdown in some EU countries.
Pashmina is extracted from the inner coats of the hardy mountain goats, locally known in Nepal as chyangra, which live at an altitude of above 3,000 meters in the Himalayas. Only the inner layer fibers measuring under 16.5 microns are specified for use as pashmina.
The value of woolen carpet exports from Nepal also increased by 19.1 per cent year-on-year during the two-month period.
The world’s biggest home textiles fair, Heimtextil 2014, will be held from January 8 to 11, 2014 in Frankfurt. Heimtextil is a platform for manufacturers, retailers and designers. Apart from home textiles, it features towel and contract textiles. One feature this year is that of a carpet section. Last year, the fair showcased 2,658 exhibitors from 62 countries and 66,000 visitors from 129 countries. This time Pakistan is one of the biggest participants, with a contingent of 222 exhibitors. That would make Pakistan the fourth largest country at the fair.
Since Heimtextil is held in January, it is the first major presentation and ordering date of the year and therefore, the biggest and most important platform for manufacturers, retailers and designers. The product show is accompanied by high-quality special shows and workshops, aimed specifically at visitors and exhibitors. In addition to lectures on topical themes, Heimtextil offers the next generation an opportunity to actively participate in the fair action by taking part in international competitions.
With Heimtextil Trend, the trade fair shows the latest fashions, design and architecture trends for exhibitors and visitors. With trend analyses, Heimtextil focuses especially on the design and decoration sectors, highlighting the latest trends for the textile interior design sector, using them in a creative way. This site features information on the trends of the moment, shows the history of trends and provides a competent communications platform in the form of the trend blog.
heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com/
ZDHC (Zero Discharge Hazardous Chemicals), a group of major apparel and footwear brands and retailers envisions delivering high quality products, using safe chemistries, operating in ways that keep communities free from unintended, downstream environmental impacts and delivers to a market where sustainable chemistry practices are preferred and rewarded. ZDHC Group has come up with the Joint Roadmap, Version 2. The Joint Roadmap is a highly ambitious plan that sets a new standard of environmental performance for the global apparel and footwear industry. The Roadmap serves as a first step towards achieving Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) by 2020. Version 2 communicates long term vision and goals and includes action plan with goals, milestones, deliverables and responsibilities.
The Roadmap builds on the first Joint Roadmap but does not replace it. The ZDHC Programme is a multi-stakeholder group working on developing and promoting best practice to improve environmental performance and chemical safety in the global apparel and footwear industry. The ZDHC Programme and its partners aims to transform the global apparel and footwear industry by delivering a safer and cleaner environment working towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the life cycle of all products by 2020.
www.roadmaptozero.com
Planet Textiles 2013 Annual Conference took place in Shanghai on October 22, 2013. This year’s focus was ‘Sustainability in China Reality or fantasy? Nearly 12 international guest speakers including Shirley Han from GOTS were invited to discuss on the sustainable practices in the Chinese textile industry. Han shared information on organic cotton growing in China, as well as the rising demand of organic clothing in China. Her topic on ‘Challenges and Opportunities of Organic in China’ gave information on the growth of organic cotton using methods and materials that have a low impact on the environment, organic production systems etc. It also highlighted the benefits and hurdles.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was developed through collaboration by leading standard setters with the aim of defining requirements that are recognised world-wide and ensure the organic status of textiles from harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labelling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer.
Since its introduction in 2006 the Global Organic Textile Standard has already demonstrated its practical feasibility. Supported by the growth in consumption of organic fibres and by the remarkable demand for unified processing criteria from the industry and retail sector, it has gained universal recognition, enabling processors and manufacturers to supply their organic textiles with one certification accepted in all major markets. With the introduction of the logo and labelling system the GOTS is already visible not only on the shelves of natural textile shops but large-scale retailers and brand dealers as well. This is a milestone in consumer recognition and a strong acknowledgement of our reliable quality assurance concept.
At the recent Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, European exhibitors were represented well as SalonEurope had put up a number of zones. These included Germany, Turkey and Portugal pavilions. In addition, SalonEurope also had the Mailano Unica Pavilion, hosting some of the most prestigious textile companies from Italy. Speaking about the demand and interest in high-end Italian products, Alessandra Pieralli from Milano Unica exhibitor Furpile Idea SpA says, “China is attracted to Italian fashion style and influenced by Italian creativity.”
There is plenty of potential for further growth, particularly in the high-end market. As luxury fabric maker Lanificio Faliero Sarti points out, “We have seen a slight improvement in the Chinese market but it has to grow a lot more to become really interesting for women’s high-end fashion,” said Owner Mauriziio Sarti.
Besides the Italian brands at SalonEurope French ribbon and trim specialist Satab too attended to generate new business leads in China. “Chinese buyers were looking for different styles including ones that reference the atmosphere of Paris in black, grey and white,” summed up Fashion Division Manager Agnes Colombet.
Beyond Denim at Intertextile Shanghai event had beyond basic products to satisfy buyer interest in innovative denim garments. “It’s about striking a balance between price and quality,” says Vincent Lai of Sunhwa. “There was more interest in a wide range of qualities this year, with buyers interested in new denim products – jackets, sweaters and prints.” The economic recovery in the US and Europe has pushed exhibitors to adapt sales strategies to account for a more stringent buyer focus on price. “I’ve been coming here for six years. Earlier people would almost buy anything we produced because China was relatively cheaper, but the climate is much tougher now, especially for denim,” explains Lucky Textiles Group General Manager Billy Wong adding that buyers have been attracted to softer, high stretch denims.
The focus on price has pushed some big brands away from China towards cheaper markets like Pakistan, according to Business One Inc Director Ayaz Musharaf. “I think brands began moving to Pakistan after China changed its labour laws,” he said. “There’s a lot of interest in printed denims and not so much in basic products but it is all about price; people come to China looking for price, not high-end products.”
Coats, the world’s leading industrial thread and consumer textile crafts business, launched two innovative new products, Flamepro and Signal, at A+A, the largest international trade fair on safety, security and health, Dusseldorf, Germany, November 5 to 8, 2013. Flamepro is a range of flame, electric arc and cut resistant yarns for use in personal protective equipment, while Signal is a range of reflective tapes for high visibility applications.
The range of Flamepro yarns has been developed for fabrics used in a wide range of extreme environments including fire fighting, oil and gas, power, anti-riot and military combat. The versatile range includes a product for use in fire retardant underwear worn by firefighters and Formula 1 drivers and is available in a large range of counts and dyes.
Coats has developed a unique blend indicator which can take customer requirements such as improved bodyburn, higher ATPV (arc thermal protective value), increased comfort and lower cost, and translate them into a specific flame resistant blend without the need for a large number of expensive samples.
Signal is a range of high quality reflective tapes for workwear, protective clothing, apparel and accessories which is available globally. It is available in flame resistant and standard versions suitable for both domestic and industrial wash applications. All products meet or exceed the requirements of high visibility and heat and flame resistant norms. It is available in lime and silver and different widths.
One among the top 10 manufactures of yarn-dyed industry in China, Jiangsu Lianfa Textile has managed to achieve sustainable development by fulfilling social responsibilities earnestly. The company has always been committed to save energy, reduce emission, and constructed environment-friendly enterprise and Lianfa realized them by improving equipment, technology innovation. In order to strictly fulfil its social responsibilities and set environment-protected image, Lianfa used environment-protected dyes, recycling resource, realized the ‘ecological environment-protected’ of production and quality.
Taking a step forward it has developed a one-way dye liquor circulating dyeing process and lab recipe control system V1.0 which simplifies production operation, as well as realized a reduction of bath ratio from 1:15 to 1:4～1:7 and improved efficiency while water immersion requirement is just 20%-70% of the original system. It is a globally advanced system which wins Lianfa an advanced energy conservation and emission reduction award in the industry.
It has also developed one bath process for colour fixation and softening, and one bath process for acid pickling and enzyme wash. One bath process for colour fixation & softening: develop the softener which can be used with fixer at the same time by controlling PH index, temperature and time of feeding in raw material.
Acid pickling enzyme wash technology is a process wherein first the acid is added, and then alkali by bath temperature and pH value control, which can help saving one step water consumption. This technology saves 10 per cent water, which is about 1,65,000 tons of water per year. Lianfa also applies heat exchange system to recover heat from hot temperature waste water generated from dyeing and finishing processes, as well as reuse the steam condensate and cooling water generated from dyeing, finishing, heating and heat preservation processes to new dyeing and mercerizing/sizing processes.
As per the Hong Kong Trade Development Company (HKTDC) Turkish exhibitors are trying to capitalise on rising prices of Chinese exports. The latest figures show a decrease in Turkey’s trade with China. In 2012, Turkey imported $1.7 billion worth of clothing items from China which is $300 million less than 2011, partly because of tariffs imposed by the Turkish government.
The silk sector particularly is at stake. China dominates the international sale of silk yarn. However, up to 1991, Turkey produced 15 per cent of the world’s silk supply. When China entered the international mark in the late 1980s, it was supplying silk at an unmatchable $4.00 per kg, but these prices have risen dramatically in the following years.
Turkish manufacturers are convinced that Turkish made fabrics may win on terms of overall quality and technical superiority of dyes used. Further, Turkish companies adhere more strictly to product safety guidelines compared to many Chinese competitors. Turkish companies are more hardworking and have greater technical knowledge, much of it gained from broader experience across Europe than their Chinese counterparts.
A local business analyst underlines that despite import taxes, it is still relatively easy, in financial terms, for Chinese companies to trade with Turkey. Domestic Turkish companies, however are looking for quality apart from the lowest price.
