FW
A cruelty-free and artificial-dye-free material, ‘Karuna Silk’ is currently being displayed in ‘Odisha Mandap’ at IITF 2024, that runs until Nov 27, 2024. Promoted by the Handlooms, Textiles & Handicrafts Department of Odisha, the live demonstration highlights a sustainable and ethical approach to silk production, transforming traditional methods.
Located at Bharat Mandapam, Odisha’s pavilion at the trade fair showcases the state’s diverse handlooms, handicrafts, tribal art, and rural products. Among these, ‘Karuna Silk’ is attracting significant attention, with live demonstrations illustrating the entire process—from silkworm cultivation to weaving. The final products, including sarees, fabrics, and modern jackets, are available for purchase at the government-run ‘Amlan’ outlet managed by the Directorate of Textiles.
Weavers from the Gopalpur region of Jajpur, Odisha, are actively demonstrating traditional techniques used to produce ‘Karuna Silk,’ at the fair.
The name ‘Karuna,’ which means compassion in Odia, reflects the unique, cruelty-free process behind this silk. Unlike conventional methods where live silkworms are boiled in their cocoons to extract the fibres, ‘Karuna Silk’ allows the silkworm to mature and transform into a butterfly, rupturing the cocoon naturally. Once the silkworm departs, the hatched cocoons are collected, and the silk threads are extracted. This method has become a compassionate alternative to traditional silk production, which can require thousands of cocoons—and silkworms—to produce a single saree.
In recent years, the Odisha government has introduced ‘Karuna Silk’ as the traditional ‘Khandua Patta’ for Shree Jagannath Temple in Puri, featuring verses from Poet Jaydev’s ‘Geeta Govinda.’ Weavers from Rautapada near Khorda are responsible for creating this special silk.
Odisha is home to four types of silk: Eri, Mulberry, Tassar, and Muga. Initially, Eri silkworms were used for ‘Karuna Silk,’ but the sustainable extraction now includes all four silk variants. The state is promoting silk cultivation across 22 districts.
In a shift away from synthetic dyes, the latest iteration of ‘Karuna Silk’ retains the natural color of the fibre, encouraging a new direction in Indian textiles. Plans are underway to incorporate natural dyes, using sources like mango and jackfruit tree bark, marigold flowers, and kumkum plants to create vibrant, eco-friendly fabrics.
By prioritising compassion and sustainability, ‘Karuna Silk’ supports a growing demand for ethical textiles, aiming to enhance the livelihoods of Odisha’s silk farmers and contribute to a greener textile industry.
The Autumn/Winter 2025 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week will be held from Jan 27-31, 2025.
To include runway shows and presentations into a unique schedule, the event this season will feature a total of 36 brands including returning favorites and a few ones.
Among these will include, brand Stel by Astrid Andersen which will make its debut on the runway, and Danish brand Birrot. Swedish brand Filippa K will also launch its maiden collection at the fashion week.
These labels will be joined by other esteemed Nordic brands including Icelandic outerwear brand 66°North, iconic Danish label Alis, Copenhagen-based new brand Kamo, and Swedish menswear label Cmmn Swdn.
Another returning brand, Stine Goya will host an intimate salon runway show at the Kunsten Museum of Modern Art Aalborg, set against the special exhibition ‘Stine Goya x Art - If You Can See What I See.’ Other brands returning to the show include, Saks Potts, TG Botanical, and the iconic Danish designer Anne Sofie Madsen.
Lastly, the event will introduce Bonnetje as part of the he CPHFW NewTalent scheme. Similarly, brand Berner Kühl will present their second collection, while Stamm and Alectra Rothschild / Masculina will present their third and final collections as part of the scheme.
Creating a severe impact Bangladesh’s garment sector, Mosaic Brands’ recent decision to enter voluntary administration has endangered the jobs of thousands of workers in 23 factories owed over $30 million. Among those affected is 26-year-old garment worker Yasmin Laboni, who worries about feeding her two children and covering basic expenses. Mohammad Alam Mia, Factory Manager, who earns $450 a month, fears mass layoffs if payments are not received.
The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) is calling for an audit to uncover the full scope of Mosaic’s unpaid debts, which span across suppliers in Bangladesh, India, and China. Suppliers like Ohmar Chowdhury, Owner, Hydroxide Knitwear, have been particularly hard-hit. Scaling up production to meet Mosaic's demands, including lengthy 120-day payment terms—four times the industry standard—Chowdhury now faces potential losses he described as ‘criminal fraud.’
In September, Mosaic announced it would close five of its brands—Rockmans, Autograph, Crossroads, W.Lane, and BeMe—to focus on core brands like Millers, Noni B, Rivers, and Katies. The company filed for administration in October, calling it ‘a necessary process to reset’ and secure the business's future. Erica Berchtold, CEO, said, the move is aimed at accelerating plans to focus on key brands and reach more customers.
The association has appealed to Australia's High Commission but was advised to seek independent legal counsel. Mohiuddin Rubel, Former Director, BGMEA of the association, criticised Mosaic’s actions, arguing it tarnishes Australia’s reputation.
Echoeing these concerns, Oxfam Australia highlights, unpaid debts only exacerbate existing exploitation in the garment industry, where minimum wages hover around $6 per day. The financial strain has led suppliers like Sarwar Hossain, manager at Sultana Sweaters, to delay wages and endure a mounting burden. One of Mosaic’s creditors, KPMG, states, they are working with suppliers to stabilise operations, leaving the future uncertain for many.
Creating a severe impact Bangladesh’s garment sector, Mosaic Brands’ recent decision to enter voluntary administration has endangered the jobs of thousands of workers in 23 factories owed over $30 million. Among those affected is 26-year-old garment worker Yasmin Laboni, who worries about feeding her two children and covering basic expenses. Mohammad Alam Mia, Factory Manager, who earns $450 a month, fears mass layoffs if payments are not received.
The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) is calling for an audit to uncover the full scope of Mosaic’s unpaid debts, which span across suppliers in Bangladesh, India, and China. Suppliers like Ohmar Chowdhury, Owner, Hydroxide Knitwear, have been particularly hard-hit. Scaling up production to meet Mosaic's demands, including lengthy 120-day payment terms—four times the industry standard—Chowdhury now faces potential losses he described as ‘criminal fraud.’
In September, Mosaic announced it would close five of its brands—Rockmans, Autograph, Crossroads, W.Lane, and BeMe—to focus on core brands like Millers, Noni B, Rivers, and Katies. The company filed for administration in October, calling it ‘a necessary process to reset’ and secure the business's future. Erica Berchtold, CEO, said, the move is aimed at accelerating plans to focus on key brands and reach more customers.
The association has appealed to Australia's High Commission but was advised to seek independent legal counsel. Mohiuddin Rubel, Former Director, BGMEA of the association, criticised Mosaic’s actions, arguing it tarnishes Australia’s reputation.
Echoeing these concerns, Oxfam Australia highlights, unpaid debts only exacerbate existing exploitation in the garment industry, where minimum wages hover around $6 per day. The financial strain has led suppliers like Sarwar Hossain, manager at Sultana Sweaters, to delay wages and endure a mounting burden. One of Mosaic’s creditors, KPMG, states, they are working with suppliers to stabilise operations, leaving the future uncertain for many.
Jesper Andersen, Executive Vice President and Chief Financial Officer, Lego Group, has been appointed to the Board of Directors, PVH Corp, effective immediately. Andersen will also serve on the board’s Audit and Risk Management Committee.
With over 25 years of experience leading major consumer brands, Andersen has been the CFO of the Danish toymaker since October 2020. During his four-year tenure at the company, he has played a key role in Lego’s growth, focusing on expanding the brand’s global reach and relevance. Prior to Lego, Andersen was employed at Upfield and Beiersdorf as the companies’ Chief Financial Officer. He was also engaged with the Colgate-Palmolive Group across Europe, Asia and North America for nearly two decades.
Stefan Larsson, CEO, PVH, states, Andersen’s strong financial expertise, omnichannel experience, and data-driven mindset make him a valuable addition to the company’s board that aims to make Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger two of the most sought-after lifestyle brands globally.
PVH recently also appointed Fredrik Olsson, former Managing Director, Max Fashion-Middle East as CEO, PVH-EMEA region. As per the company’s latest trading report, PVH’s Q2, FY25 revenues declined by 6 per cent to $2.074 billion as the company faced a declined performance in international markets, particularly in the Asia Pacific region.
Andersen’s addition to the board will also help PVH to leverage his extensive financial and global market expertise to navigate these challenges and continue building momentum for its key brands, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger.
Introducing the latest evolution of the sustainable material made from 100 per cent regenerated nylon, Aquafil Group has launched the Econyl Bespoke collection.
The collection features a range of sustainable yarns designed to bring natural-inspired textures to both solution-dyed and dyed regenerated nylon 6 yarns. The yarns included in this collection are suitable for various rug constructions including handmade and machine-made, tufted and woven rugs, as well as residential and commercial wall-to-wall carpets.
Designed to meet the high performance standards required in contract, hospitality, and residential spaces, the Econyl Bespoke collection offers three distinct finishes including Econyl ReLana, a 2-ply dyed twist yarn that mimics the classic look and feel of wool; Econyl ReSeta, a 2-ply dyed twist yarn that offers the softness and sheen of silk, available in both bright and dull finishes, and Econyl Terra, a high-count, air-entangled, solution-dyed yarn known for its durability, featuring a curated collection of unique colors. This finish serves as a resilient alternative to natural raw fibers.
These yarns offer key benefits like inherent stain resistance, colorfastness against light and chemicals, and efficiency in tufting and weaving processes.
Giulio Bonazzi, Chairman and CEO, Aquafil Group, says, the group looks forward to seeing the beautiful rugs and carpets being created with this new circular yarn.
Derived from both pre-and post-consumer nylon waste, Econyl nylon is not only 100 per cent recycled but also infinitely regenerable. The yarn is certified traceable and meets high environmental standards with OekoTex and Cradle to Cradle certifications. Additionally, Econyl contributes to sustainability benchmarks such as LEED v4, BREEAM, and WELL, making it a preferred choice for eco-conscious design.
Currently accounting for 2.3 per cent to India’s GDP, 13 per cent to industrial production, and 12 per cent to total exports, the contribution of textile and apparel (T&1 industry to India’s GDP is expected to double to 5 per cent by 2030-end.
From Apri-Oct’24, India’s textile exports to Europe increased by 6.39 per cent to $5.66 billion as against $5.32 billion during the same period last year. However, this figure still lags behind the $5.84 billion worth of textile exports achieved in FY23, as per the latest data from the Commerce Ministry.
A significant contributor to the rise in India’s exports to Europe included the RMG sector, which accounted for $3.18 billion of the total exports. Other categories, including cotton yarn, fabrics, made-ups, and handloom products, contributed an additional $1.10 billion. India witnessed a rising demand for its textile products from countries such as Germany, Italy, Sweden, and Finland, among others.
In FY24, key markets for India’s textile exports included Sweden, the Czech Republic, and Switzerland. The country also witnessed a rising demand from emerging markets such as Austria, Greece, and Slovenia. Despite this, Europe’s share in India’s textile exports is on a decline. In FY24, Europe accounted for $9.66 billion or 28.08 per cent of the total $34.40 billion textile exports as against 29.48 per cent or $10.48 billion in FY23. In FY25, India’s textile exports to Europe accounted for 27.34 of its total exports amounting to $5.66 billion.
Several factors are contributing to the growing demand for India’s textile products in the European markets. One significant reason is the ongoing crisis in Bangladesh, which has prompted European buyers to seek alternative sourcing options, leading them to Indian textiles. Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor, Clothing Manufacturing Association of India (CMAI), notes, while there has been improvement in demand, the performance still falls short of the achievements seen in 2023.
Moreover, the Indian textile industry is adapting to changing global dynamics. The sector is projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10 per cent reaching an estimated $350 billion by 2030. India is already the world’s third-largest exporter of textiles and ranks among the top five global exporters in various textile categories. With exports expected to reach $100 billion by 2030, the industry is poised for significant growth.
Additionally, there is a growing demand for value-added products, such as technical textiles and man-made fibers. These developments are strengthening India’s position as a key global exporter.
In conclusion, while the Indian textile industry faces challenges in fully recovering to previous export levels, the outlook remains positive. With increasing demand from European markets and improvements in logistics and infrastructure, the sector is well-positioned for future growth.
The US and EU continued strong apparel import growth in September. It went up 9 per cent and 13 per cent YoY, respectively, highlights Wazir Advisors latest apparel consumption and trade data for major supplier and buyer nations. The monthly study ‘Apparel trade scenario in key global markets and India’ highlights the US and EU continued strong import growth in September 2024.
Imports and exports on the rise
In September 2024, the US and EU registered strong import growth in apparels while smaller markets like the UK and Japan registered a decline with year-on-year decreases of 11 per cent and 15 per cent, respectively.
At the same time, both China and India recorded significant export growth in October 2024. China's exports went up 9 per cent year-on-year, while India's exports saw remarkable 35 per cent increase. The report also highlights, with significant growth in October, India’s projected exports will range between $15.5 billion and $16 billion, which is around 8-10 per cent increase over 2023.
Interestingly, a look at the share of major suppliers in key markets reveals, the scenario has not changed much in the US market. China still leads with almost 22 per cent market share since 2022 to 2024. Vietnam, Bangladesh, India in that order remained the other top suppliers to the US with 18 per cent, 9 per cent and 6 per cent share since 2022. The scenario is similar in the EU with China leading the pack. However, in the UK, China’s share has gone up since 2023 from 19 per cent to 27 per cent in January-September 2024. Bangladesh’s share has fallen from 15 to 11 per cent. India continues to be the fifth largest supplier with around 4 per cent share.
Mixed retail performance
The study also delved into US and UK apparel sales in October. It revealed US apparel store sales were around 2 per cent higher than the previous year, while home furnishing store sales were up by 11 per cent. However, online clothing and accessory sales dropped by 2 per cent in Q3 2024 compared to the same period in 2023.
Meanwhile, the US inflation rate slightly increased to 2.6 per cent in October, and job growth was modest due to factors like the Boeing strike and hurricanes. Nevertheless, consumer confidence grew to 108.7, reflecting optimism about potential interest rate cuts. What’s more, for last several quarters, several major retailers including Walmart, Target, Kohl’s among others, have reported lower inventory levels compared to same period in the previous year.
In the UK on the other hand, apparel store sales in September 2024 increased by 5 per cent year-on-year, reaching £4.5 billion. However, UK clothing e-commerce sales experienced a 6 per cent decline in Q3 2024 compared to Q3 2023.
The study indicates, global apparel trade in October 2024 was mixed. While major markets like the US and EU continued to drive import growth, smaller markets faced challenges. India's impressive export performance, particularly in October, highlights its growing prominence as a global apparel supplier. The US retail sector showed signs of resilience, with physical store sales increasing. However, the decline in online clothing and accessory sales suggests a shift in consumer preferences. In the UK, while physical store sales grew, e-commerce sales contracted, indicating a potential slowdown in online shopping.
The US economic indicators, including a modest job growth and rising inflation, point to a cautious outlook. However, the rise in consumer confidence suggests optimism about future economic prospects. Moving forward, it will be crucial to monitor the impact of geopolitical factors, economic conditions, and consumer behavior on the global apparel trade and retail industry.
Resuffling its senior management team, luxury brand Gucci has promoted Francesco Falai, Senior Vice President-Global People to the post of the brand’s new Chief People Officer. To assume office on Jan 01, 2025, Falai will succeed Luca Bozzo, Head-HR, when Stefano Cantino will replace Jean-Francois Palus as the brand]s new CEO.
Armed with a degree in economics from the University of Florence, Falai is an alumni of the SDA Bocconi business school in Milan. He started his career at Florentine leather goods producer Pelletteria Fontana, before moving on to Salvatore Ferragamo’s sales department. In 2005, he joined Prada and worked with the brand for 12 years in different positions.
In 2012, Falai was named Head -HR Worldwide for the commercial and retail departments at Prada-owned footwear label Church’s. In 2017, he joined Gucci to oversee human resources worldwide for the retail and omnichannel functions, and gradually expanded his remit until the latest promotion.
In his new role, Falai aims to lead Gucci’s HR strategy, inspiring excellence in execution and encouraging the organisation’s transformation and expansion. He will collaborate with stakeholders across the company to boost the staff’s contribution to the business.
Besides promoting Cantino from deputy managing director to CEO, and hiring Leberichel, Gucci recently also hired other senior executives, like Marcello Mastrogiacomo, as Vice-President - Digital Marketing and Media, and Daniela Raganato, Global Media Director, while in September Davide Buzzoni was named Global Communications Director.
Fashion retail company JD Sports’ has lowered its full-year pre-tax profit forecast for FY24 to a range between $1,195 million and $1,295 million. Made amidst challenging retail environment, this decline is a result of the softer sales registered by the company in Oct’24 despite strong sales recorded in Aug’24 and Sep’24.
In Q3, FY24, JD Sports reported a 0.3 per cent decline in like-for-like (LFL) sales. However, the company’s year-to-date LFL sales increased by 0.5 per cent increase. Spurred by a growth in the company’s footwear sales, JD Sport’s physical sales outpaced its online sales during the quarter. The company’s organic sales rose by 5.4 per cent Q-o-Q while they increased by 6.1 per cent Y-o-Y.
Increased promotional activity, unseasonable weather and cautious consumer sentiment in key markets, especially in North America and the UK led to stable sales in Oct’24, notes Regis Schultz, CEO. Despite these challenges, the company’s gross margin for the period improved by 0.3 percentage points to reach 48.1 per cent.
Pursuing its expansion strategy, JD Sports opened 79 new stores during Q3, FY24 bringing the total to 181 new stores for the year. By the end of Q3, the company operated 4,541 stores globally, including recent acquisitions.
