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FashionatingWorld is a seamless network of GLOCAL (global and local-country specific) web platforms with sector focused approach on Fashion Retail, Apparel and Textiles. Sectors are a pleasurable experience taking you closer to your own sector for news and content related to the sector while seamlesslessly offering you a combined platform to browse for a much broader insight and understanding on all sectors right from Fashion Retail to Apparel (& Apparel SupplyChain) to Textiles (& Textile SupplyChain) aspects.
FashionatingWorld is set to connect the global fraternity through news, information and valuable insights on the contemporary developments in the industry. The country specific web platforms address news and other contents related to their country in their local business language, while global website addresses global news and content in English language.
FashionatingWorld is collaborative and cooperative model of combining strengths of B2B communication companies in each country to evolve a genuine and exclusive global platform.
Built & Brought by An independent holding company engaged in trade promotion with its stakeholders around the world in USA, Europe, Hong Kong, China and India, FashionatingWorld is looking for Win-Win partnerships across countries with B2B communication and sourcing companies, experts and trade bodies for promoting global trade of fashion retail, apparel and textiles.
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Groz-Beckert, a quality supplier of textile machine components in the area of textile surface formation, has opened a new office in Thane, Maharashtra. Its aimed at servicing customers in the western region. Apart from its office in Chandigarh, it also has an office in Tirupur that caters to the south Indian markets. The regional office at Thane west is headed by Sanjay Chawla, Sales Director.
India is the 2nd largest market for Groz-Beckert, and a strong presence has been maintained here for more than 50-years through its wholly owned subsidiary Groz-Beckert Asia. As the knitting and garment industry evolved over period, the company has kept pace by steadily expanding its distribution network across the country, and opening branch offices in important knitting centres of Ludhiana and Tirupur.
"Taking its commitment to customer service a step further, the company has recently inaugurated two new regional offices at Gurgaon and Thane, in addition to the already established office at Tirupur. These regional sales offices will represent all divisions of the company, i.e., knitting, weaving, felting, tufting, and sewing," said Chawla.
The company will also focus on seminars and workshops on products application in order to enhance the knowledge levels of the industry people, said Anton Reinfelder, Managing Director of Groz-Beckert Asia. "These new regional offices will help the company to forge closer ties with our customers, understand their needs and develop new products and applications," said Anton.
For Groz-Beckert, research and development have always been important corner stones of corporate success. The objective of the company is to be the pioneer of innovation for the entire textile chain wherever textile surface production technologies are required and whenever new technologies or systems need to be developed.
www.groz-beckert.com/
Tags
Apparel India, Apparel World (India), Apparel Technology (India), Textile India, Textile World( India),Textile Technology (India), Knitting( India), Sanjay Chawla, Anton Reinfelder ( people)
With the aim of attracting more clicks and increasing sales, Flipkart, a multi brand e-retailer has recently expanded in the women’s apparel segment. In fact Flipkart is a later starter in this space as competitors such as Jabong, Yebhi, Tradus, Myntra, Fashionara, DonebyNone, Zovi among others have already captured market share.
Flipkart’s expansion strategy is being sighted as a good example of the way Indian ecommerce market is evolving in terms of category adoption from online buyers and how the market is maturing from comparable goods demands online to subjective good demands online. Each category expansion for Flipkart is driven thorough market research and feasibility judgment.
For horizontal retailers, the idea is to acquire the customer with low ticket size, competitively priced products and make them move up the value chain towards high margins product and high ticket size. In the case of Flipkart, the foundation was laid by book sales, which ‘may be’ at negative margins for now, electronics further helped it in increasing the ticket size per transaction although still at low-to-negative margins. And next was to increase the categories by providing further options and compelling purchases to improve margins, of which apparels, digital goods, and mixing and pushing of private labels are seen as positive examples.
www.flipkart.com
Manyavar, a leading Indian men’s ethnic fashion brand has announced plans for expansion across the Middle East region. Launched in Dubai in 2011, it has opened a third showroom in Karama, taking the brand’s global presence to a total of 228 stores across India, Bangladesh and the Middle East. Manyavar said in a statement that it plans to open six more stores in the Middle East during 2013.
The newest shop, which offers a range of kurtas, sherwanis and accessories such as traditional footwear and turbans, was inaugurated by actor Jayaram Subramaniam. He said, “Manyavar houses some of the best designs in traditional wear for men. The comfort, style and colours add the much needed enthusiasm to any occasion... Manyavar is a must for all men looking to wear something traditional yet trendy.”
Manyavar’s Lalit Kothari said, “Our growth is a testament to the loyal clientele that has been with us for years now. Manyavar products are a result of stringent research and customer feedback. As we plan to open six more outlets by the end of 2013, we are only positive that Indian ethnic menswear will transcend further through other nationalities owing to its style, fashion presences and vibrant offerings.”
www.manyavar.com
With his spring/summer 2013 collection, Elton Fernandez makes his debut in the world of fashion design. His signature label was launched at the Mumbai store Atosa and Fernandez aims to celebrate the simple and arresting nature of a woman's sensuality through this line.
Fernandez has always believed in following his heart and therein lies his mantra for success. A graduate in English literature, political science and world history, he took a detour by opting to pursue a full-time freelance career in makeup and hair. In a short span of time, his clientele expanded to include actors Sonam Kapoor, Sonakshi Sinha, Kalki Koechlin and Shruti Haasan. Bollywood actor Poorna Jagannathan sported an outfit from his first collection at the Mumbai premiere of ‘Midnight's Children’ she wore a two-toned dress with white organza embroidery.
The influences for his first eponymous clothing brand come from those early days of his life and memories of the past.
Most Indian designers who till now catered to a market are now busy exploring various retail routes in a bid to reach out to a wider audience. They are setting up stores and not just on high-streets but even smaller towns. It’s perhaps a realisation of the need to create wearable clothes for the common man. Recent designer store launches include Tarun Tahliani's new flagship in Delhi, Ashima Leena’s flagship store at the DLF Emporio Mall in New Delhi among others.
While Kolkata already has two home-grown design powerhouses in the form of Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Anamika Khanna, now designer Raghavendra Rathore too has opened a menswear store as a part of his expansion plans. He is planning stores in Mumbai and Punjab within the year. Evolv, multi-designer store from Chennai has now set up shop in Ludhiana, where they offer affordable collaborations from brands like CUE by Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, Abraham & Thakore, Gaurav Gupta and more.
And recently, designer Manish Malhotra launched a collecteion especially created for the Pune market that includes anarkali suits, georgettes and chiffon bejewelled saris among others. The range was unveiled at city’s biggest fashion and multi designer store Rudraksh.
www.manishmalhotra.in
Domestic cotton markets, which remained under downside pressure since the beginning of the cotton season in October 2012, are now showing signs of recovery, amid firm prices in international markets. Global cotton prices are influenced by three nations; China, India and the US. China is central to any discussion on cotton markets, being the world’s largest producer, consumer and importer of cotton.
India, being the second largest producer, consumer and exporter of cotton, commands a special attention in the world markets. In fact, participants across the globe are eyeing cotton trade policy developments in India as the country supplies a significant portion of its produce to global markets. India has witnessed a sharp rise in yield after the widespread introduction of genetically modified cotton seeds, i.e., BT cotton, in 2002-03, which turned the country’s status from being a net importer to net exporter of the commodity.
In the current context, fundamentals for 2012-’13 season (October-September) seem to be a comparatively stable for domestic cotton markets if exports are maintained around the estimated levels. Considering the recent development of offloading stocks from the state reserves in India and China, cotton prices are expected to trade with a downward bias in the near term.
Prices, which are currently trading around Rs 19,000 ( approx. USD 349) per bale, may touch Rs 18,500 ( approx. USD 340) per bale in the near term. However, if international markets continue to trend upwards, cotton prices in domestic markets will remain positive in the medium to long term. Cotton prices may tread towards Rs 19,800( approx. USD 364) per bale in the next 2-3 months.
Tags:
Textile India, Textile World (India), Fibre( India), Cotton ( India)
National Textile Corporation (NTC), an eco-friendly integrated textile company, plans to launch new brands which with a pan India presence. Its aim is to be a leading textile enterprise, improving capacity utilization, economy of operations, productivity, quality, brand image, market share and exports. “We have put in place various mechanisms to achieve this. We are improving our capacity utilization and launching new brands, renovating our stores and getting into the franchise mode for readymade garments. Also, we are participating in trade fairs to increase exports,” says Aloke Banerjee, Director Marketing, NTC.
And to help NTC build a competent designing team they recently hosted an initiative called ‘Young Designer Hunt’ wherein well known designer Raghavendra Rathore was roped in. Young designers are participating in this event and would exhibit their work regularly and take them to international level. Winners of the ‘Designer Hunt’ will be working on a new apparel and accessories brand which will soon be launched in India and overseas. The brand, called ‘Brand India’ is being launched under the guidance of Raghavendra Rathore.
Talking further about their retail spread Banerjee says, “We plan to launch 200 stores to be operated through franchisee model of operation focusing on supply chain model. This would be done with the help of a master franchise. We have a very transparent method of selecting a master franchise though advertisements. We have selected a master franchise that will do the operations for other franchises pan India. NTC will have full control on these independent franchise stores in terms of product supply. They will store only NTC products exclusively. The main investment will be done by the master franchise while NTC will help in part renovation of the stores as and when required.”
Similarly, for increasing production capacity NTC plans to have private partners to do the funding. Meanwhile NTC also has generated funds that will be utilized to increase their production capacity. Further, the company plans to apply for bank loans to help them increase the capacity.
At present NTC does not have any foreign partnerships for their production and would be getting into a partnership for its technical textile venture. “We have received inquiries from a few foreign companies in Japan, Germany, America and India as well. We are in the process of shortlisting a company for a joint venture for marketing and production of our technical textile venture,” adds Banerjee.
They plan is to launch the new brand in the value for money segment. As Banerjee says “We would like to give the people of India an honestly priced product. Moreover the fact that the brand is coming from the government will ensure that the product is available at the right price and the promised quality.”
NTC plans to launch ‘Brand India’ between July and September. It has a substantial budget for both marketing and brand building. “We shall not constrain ourselves to our expansion appetite, currently the budget allocated for our advertising and marketing is approximately around Rs. 25 crores. An aggressive brand and retail communication has been planned. We have a value for money proposition for our shirt brand. A women’s empowerment program called “StreeVijay” will be launched soon. We also plan to launch a mid level brand called ‘Raasa’ along with it says Banerjee.
For ‘Brand India’ the company plans to target the middle class and upper middle class segment, while as far as the retail spread is concerned the company shall get into A and B markets and for the other brands NTC plans to target the B and C markets.
NTC aims for a CAGR of 6 to 8 per cent and capture not only the Indian market but also spread is its wings internationally. However, according to Banerjee this will happen in phases and currently they will concentrate on building the brand locally.
Take s.Oliver Fashion India for example, it runs the s.Oliver stores across India, and has been receiving queries from potential franchisees in cities such as Shillong, Guwahati and Siliguri. By mid-2013, the company is looking at venturing into this untapped market. It may be recalled that the premium German apparel brand had entered India in 2007.
The Northeast, home to a combined 45 million people as of 2011 Census, comprises of the states of Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Sikkim and Tripura. A good pace of economic growth in recent years has increased the purchasing power of people in the region. While the average rate of growth in gross state domestic product (GSDP), a measure of state-wise economic output, was 6.88 per cent in 2011-12, some Northeastern states grew faster. Assam’s economy grew at 8.42 per cent, Tripura’s by 8.87 per cent and Meghalaya clocked in growth of 9.54 per cent reveal Planning Commission figures.
Louis Philippe, the men’s brand from Madura Garments that sells apparel, shoes and accessories, started test-marketing its collections in the Northeast one-and-a-half years ago with a store in Guwahati. Now it is looking at opening more stores in the region. Similarly jewellery chain Tanishq has two stores in Guwahati and Agartala and is now planning to open three more within this year. Titan, which also sells watches and eyewear under the Titan and Fastrack brands, clocked in sales worth Rs 100 crores in the region last year, up from Rs 12-13 crores five years ago.
A research done by Nielsen shows, the Northeast accounts for 3.8 per cent of India’s personal care market, in terms of value, but is growing at a yearly pace of 22 percent —three percentage points higher than the national average. No wonder then that even fashion retailers and consumer goods companies are planning retail strategies in the area. New Delhi-based DLF Brands, which represents brands such as Forever 21, Mothercare and DKNY in India, too is mulling entering the region in the next one year.
There sure is a bright side to the economic slowdown at least for the Asian textiles and apparels industry. For manufacturers in India, China, Korea, Taiwan, Japan et al, the slowdown has not really meant slowing down of business completely. Indeed sales have been sluggish and demand not up to the mark at least from their traditional markets of the US and Europe, but manufacturers in this region are not complaining at least not yet. In fact, most stakeholders say they continued selling and what keeps them going is newer markets within the region. Most say the situation forced them to look beyond Europe and US and within the region and yes, they have not been too disappointed.
This optimism was clearly visible among exhibitors at the Interstoff Asia Essential Spring 2013 meet held in Hong Kong from March 13 to 15. The fair had 229 exhibitors from 10 countries including China, Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Japan, Thailand among others showcasing their latest offerings. Besides suppliers and buyers from Europe a large number of visitors were from within the Asian region. On display were innovative fabrics and new collections setting the trend for Spring 2014.
And even though most exhibitors rued the slowdown in business and low demand from western markets, they were happy with the kind of sales they were doing within the Asian region. As Jin Wei Liang, Deputy Director, Shaoxing County Bureau of Commerce explained, “Earlier, the US accounted for nearly 20 per cent of our exports, but now it has come down to one per cent. The market has shifted to Southeast Asia and our focus is on newer markets here. That is why we are at this exhibition, to attract new buyers from within the region.” The Shaoxing County Bureau of Commerce participated with 32 exhibitors this time, the largest ever representation at the fair. What’s more the Shaoxing county is one of China’s biggest textile producing state and 90 per cent of its produce is exported. They are now tapping countries in Southeast Asia, ASEAN and even Brazil to tide over the slowdown. Agreed Kevin Tsang Fin Fung of Harbin Linen Mill (HK), who says “With the Chinese currency having appreciated in the past year, margins are low and prices cannot be increased too much. To tide over difficult times, we have been looking at markets in ASEAN and Southeast Asia. That has helped us also we have developed newer fabrics to fit client’s requirements.”
Korean organic cotton specialist fabric maker Kayjune Company was at present at the fair backed by Korea Trade Investment Promotion Agency. Their niche products are sold to manufacturers in Japan, Hong Kong, Russia among others and as SeongMoon.Kang, President of Kayjune Company explained, “Ours is a niche product and we have a lot of domestic customers. However, we are now tapping newer markets in Asia to grow our business.” Similarly Shingpung Textile makers of specialized nylon, spendex fabrics for outdoor wear and supplier to brands like Columbia, Puma, John Wolfskin among others has faced a slowdown since their biggest market is in Europe. But as Hong-Cheul, Shing says “Indeed, the economic slowdown has affected business but we are developing newer customers in the region and also in Europe.”
Closer home, the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) has been encouraging Indian industry toincrease apparel exports from India to non-traditional markets from the current 24 percent to 35 per cent within next few years. In fact, in the past one year Indian exporters entered newer destinations such as Latin America, southern and western Africa, Japan, Russia, Israel and Australia during. With government’s support through focus market schemes and market linked focus product schemes and various FTAs have given Indian businesses market access especially in Japan. Newer markets brought in 10 per cent business for the industry. According to AEPC data, Japanese demand seemed to help Indian garment exporters. Exports to Japan rose to 4.4 per cent last year after a 2.1 per cent drop the previous year. The industry is also strongly working on moving from cotton to synthetic fibre, as it will help diversify into new products like sportswear, swim suits. This is expected to help double exports in the next five years.
With more and more men willing to loosen their purse strings on clothes and accessories, many menswear players are logging onto the e-commerce space to fulfil the rising demand. In fact, many web platforms like Elitify.com, Pernia Qureshi’s The Men’s Shop, GujralSons and SBJ House of Luxury are cashing in on the growth opportunity for menswear.
A research done by Elitify.com reveals, men’s market is growing rapidly at a 13 per cent annually compared to 10 per cent for women. The fastest growing segment of online commerce is fashion, and it’s being propelled by men and they prefer shopping online as it is convenient and efficient.
Another report by ASSOCHAM showed the online retail industry in India is likely to be worth Rs 7,000 crores by 2015 and the credit goes to easy internet access and availability of broadband services. The survey conducted by ASSOCHAM Social Development Foundation (ASDF) is based on interactions with 500 shoppers in the age group 16 to 35 years in 10 cities -- Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bangalore, Kolkata, Ahmedabad, Chandigarh, Ludhiana, Lucknow and Jaipur.
No wonder from e-retailers to designers everyone is logging on the net to sell their products. Take Pernia Qureshi for example, the pop up shop recently launched ‘The Men’s Shop’ which stocks menswear designer clothes from the likes of Rajesh Pratap Singh, Karan Johar + Varun Bahl, Atsu Sekhose, Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna and Raghuvendera Rathore. On offer are formal suits, pants and shirts as well as laidback denims, kurtas and shorts and accessories.
If designers are cashing in on the online trend, so are conventional menswear brands. GujralSons, a 40-year-old brand catering to men's ethnic wear, has also come up with exclusive wedding collection that is being retailed through their website as well as at their stores. It has a range of sherwanis, suits, kurta pajamas among others. Most top fashion brands too have taken the e-route to increase their sales. Online shops are also evolving by focusing on concepts such as Dial-a-Suit as introduced by SBJ House of Luxury -- a men’s apparel brand.
Invista, the leading fiber and fabric innovator in textile industry organised the second edition of its knowledge and innovation conclave ‘Lycra Rendezvous’ at the Taj Palace, New Delhi recently. The event witnessed leading mills and brands from the textile and apparel industry such as Arvind Denim, Mafatlal Denim, Vardhaman, Banswara Syntex among others participate in the event.
The day-long event saw insightful discussions and product showcase by Invista’s key customers. The highlight was the launch of its latest innovation LycraT166L fiber and the unveiling of Arvind Stretch Denim powered by Lycra fiber. Discussions amongst the top denim experts and a scintillating denim fashion show were the other high points. It started with a presentation on the evolution of denim jeans as a result of the butterfly effect ‘change happening at one place leads to spread of change everywhere.’ Denim jeans were showcased in new colour palettes, pastel and metallic and leather looks.
Arvind Denim launched its latest range of stretch fabrics under two key themes – Denim Glam and Pop Vintage bringing Invista’s best textile innovations together with the denim fabric making expertise of Arvind. As Aamir Akhtar, CEO, Arvind Denim explained, “The Lycra fiber brand has delivered multiple breakthroughs over the years through continuous investment in innovations and conquered new frontiers in comfort, fit, functionality and consumer concepts. Invista as the pioneer of innovation has contributed to the growth of the Indian textile and apparel industry that is currently growing at a healthy 14-15per cent. Taking forward our association, we are delighted to present the new generation of stretch fabrics with Lycra fiber that take comfort, style and stretch technology to another level.”
Invista shared the fiber innovation story with the audience. Main developments included the Tough Max Lycra fabrics made with Lycra T400 fiber, which imparts strength and comfort. They also showcased their global denim concept collection for Spring/Summer 2014. The collection encompasses innovative garments highlighting company’s key technologies for denim including Tough Max, Lycra fabric, Xfit Lycra fabrics, Lycra dualFX fabrics and Coolmax fiber under key three themes of Fantasy, Reality and Harmony. Featured styles under Fantasy comprise of pearlized coatings, reflective surfaces, coloured weft yarns, prints and tie-dye effects; Reality features simple evergreen denim structures and neon colours; Harmony collection represents performance denims with knit inspired jacquard weaves of cotton and Lycra fiber.
Talking about the innovations, Andrew Evans, MD-South Asia, Invista said, “At Lycra Rendezvous, our endeavour was to provide a platform to the denim industry to delve deep into the consumer psyche, identify consumer needs and come up with innovative ways to spark the industry’s growth. We received a fantastic response from our customers and representatives of the industry reiterating the success of the event that brought together the entire value chain together.”
Commenting about their association with Invista Ravi Toshniwal, MD, Banswara Syntex said, “We have been working closely with Invista for the last 14 years on technical collaborations and new product developments for yarns and fabrics with Lycra fiber and Lycra T400 fiber. We highly value the partnership since it has enabled us to differentiate our offerings and deliver many firsts in the Indian textile market.”
Invista also presented novel consumer insights and research findings in a special session aimed at enabling the brands to identify ways of ‘winning the today’s denim consumer’. The highlight of the event was the brainstorm wherein industry stalwarts delved on topics such as ‘Shifting Supply Base: Opportunities & Challenges’ and ‘What does the Indian market need’.
The forum brought to the forefront challenges and opportunities that the textile and apparel industry is facing currently. The trends and future of the garment industry in countries like Sri Lanka, Cambodia and Vietnam were also discussed at length. It highlighted the ardent need for technological advancement and finesse in fiber processing.
Proline, the first Indian T-shirt brand
launched in 1983 by the Batra Group,
enjoys a 10 per cent market share of
the sports lifestyle segment today.
With a modest start as a sportswear
brand, Proline has come a long way
to become a major performance and
lifestyle label in the country. The brand
is the brainchild of brothers, Rajesh and
'Rajiv Batra, both avid tennis players and
sports enthusiasts. The duo identified a gap
in the Indian market for good quality sportswear
and introduced Proline. Sandeep Mukim, CEO, Proline India,
talks to Gurbir Singh Gulati about the brand's evolution and its
product portfolio.
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For over two decades story has carved a niche in the mens' wear segment. The launch of
Growing awareness about designer wear and people's spending capacity along with a
Delhi hosts All India Textile Conference after 23 years:The 67th All
ATDC's principals' conclave moots strategies:The Annual Regional
Asia Retail Congress focuses on stakeholders:The two day event was
Commemorating 25 years as a leading promoter of Hong Kong's industry,Interstoff
The 7th China International Hosiery Purchasing Expo was held on March 5 to 7.2012.at
FashionatingWorld engages professionally itself in all value adding customized services that could help companies, brands, retailers, buyers & sellers and trade bodies around the world to leap frog growth. With our expanding panel of experts with decades of experience, in their respective expertise area, scaling up business seems to be an exciting activity.
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Reach out in full confidentiality
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FashionatingWorld is a seamless network of GLOCAL (global and local-country specific) web platforms with sector focused approach on Fashion Retail, Apparel and Textiles. Sectors are a pleasurable experience taking you closer to your own sector for news and content related to the sector while seamlesslessly offering you a combined platform to browse for a much broader insight and understanding on all sectors right from Fashion Retail to Apparel (& Apparel SupplyChain) to Textiles (& Textile SupplyChain) aspects.
FashionatingWorld is set to connect the global fraternity through news, information and valuable insights on the contemporary developments in the industry. The country specific web platforms address news and other contents related to their country in their local business language, while global website addresses global news and content in English language.
FashionatingWorld is collaborative and cooperative model of combining strengths of B2B communication companies in each country to evolve a genuine and exclusive global platform.
Built & Brought by An independent holding company engaged in trade promotion with its stakeholders around the world in USA, Europe, Hong Kong, China and India, FashionatingWorld is looking for Win-Win partnerships across countries with B2B communication and sourcing companies, experts and trade bodies for promoting global trade of fashion retail, apparel and textiles.
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Singtex Industrial, a leading Taiwan-based textile company has launched SPIIN (S. Cafe, Partnership, Innovation, Inspiration, Nature) to integrate industrial resources by leveraging partners the textile supply chain. It aims to become an essential platform for partners to explore creativity and business opportunity of utilizing coffee yarn called S. Café, into textile manufacturing.
S. Café is a technical composite fibre used to make yarn which then
becomes knitted or woven fabric through a series of manufacturing processes. It utilizes the natural ability of coffee grounds to absorb odours for a comfortable wearing experience and provides UV protection and fast drying. It combines the post patented processed coffee grounds and polymer to create master batches. The technology not only reuses the grounds to be the raw material of yarn technology but also reuses the highly concentrated oil by product from the patented process which can be used in cosmetics and textile industries. S. Cafe fabrics provide a comfortable feel combined with functional qualities for all outdoor and lifestyle activities.
Jason Chen, President, S.Cafe explains, “The idea of using coffee ground came to us in 2005. Being from the yarn background and with a coating and lamination factory, I saw a future in technology from coffee beans. The process involved taking the coffee ground in nano particle size, collecting and drying them. Simultaneously PET bottles are recycled which gets blended into the recomposition stage to be developed as yarn.” Chen further explains, “Out of coffee that is grown, .02 per cent of coffee is used which means 99.98 per cent coffee ground is eliminated or thrown away. Using this coffee ground makes the process sustainable"
The coffee yarn is sustainable and commercially viable and can also absorb sweat. “The product is 30 per cent more expensive in comparison to regular yarns. We sell the yarn to weavers and it goes to China, Korea, India and US. We have a co-operation with an Indian company which uses the yarn for branding and marketing purpose,” added Chen.
Talking about the growth aspect, Chen reveals, “We grow by 30 to 35 per cent a year and work on high tech textiles and environment friendly fabric. The fabric is also exported to brands like Nike, Adidas and some Japanese brands. We have a garment factory in Vietnam which is used for ODM (Original Design Manufacturer) primarily used for design. Some of this is for garment brands. It’s a vertical service. The future looks very optimistic. We are an IPO listed company and a 50 million dollar company. As of now we have a small business in India. Some brands that make garments in India use our fabric. We are open to cooperation with Indian firms.”
S.Café has won Best Invention at Geneva Inventions and Pittsburgh Invention Gold Medal Award of Merit. Additionally, S.Café obtained GRS (Global Recycle Standard ) certification by Control Union (Holland base notarization unit) and Recycled Material Certification by TÜV (Germany base notarization unit).
Over 135 companies from the upstream textile supply field from the Euromed region and Moroccan clothing manufacturers exhibited at this year’s editions of Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing on October 24 and 25, in Casablanca. Denims and piece-dyed casual trousers were a focus of the exhibition with many innovative ranges on display.
Organised by Amith, the trade body for Moroccan textile and clothing manufacturers, in collaboration with Maroc Export saw retailers and fashion labels such as Stefanelli, Simonetta, Antica Sartoria or Pinko from Italy; Cortefiel, Iturri, Escorpion from Spain; Perry Ellis, Topshop, House of Fraser from Great Britain and Willy Bogner, Mac, Mustang and Orsay from Germany visit the fairs.
The largest groups of visitors came from France, including Galeries Lafayette, Caroll, Cache Cache, Pimkie, La Redoute, La Nouvelle Vague, Go Sport along with Russian labels exhibiting for the first time. An extensive range of textiles for the production of in-house collections in the fields of womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, jeans, body and beachwear, as well as branded and private label collections and sustainably produced eco collections were on display.
Owing to rising production costs in Asia, Morocco’s textile and clothing industry is being viewed as a safe and comfortable sourcing destination. Duty-free delivery to the EU, short distances involved in transit, as well as environmentally friendly and sustainable production methods are some advantages that make Morocco attractive for international manufacturers.
Garment Printing, a leading international promotional and customized clothing company, offering a complete range of bespoke printing techniques has re-invested in its innovative IT platform that improves on its already strong, international supply chain. Combined with an enhanced customer relationship system, the company is focused on reducing turn-around times and improving customer satisfaction, proven by its increase in positive feedback.
“Fast Track IT innovation is driving our express T-shirt printing demand,” says CEO Gavin Drake. Having printed and embroidered extensively for the television, media, music, and advertising companies and global brands, Garment Printing is familiar with sudden changes and urgent requests. Drake has applied his 15 years experience of the printing business to solving unexpected pressures on his companies supply chain and ensuring high quality service for his customers, explaining how his customer services teams are like an extension of its clients marketing teams.
Garment Printing does not have fixed turnaround times. They work as per client’s requirements and urgent delivery deadlines. Whether it’s same-day T-shirt printing, next-day embroidered polo shirts, or anything personalized, customized or branded with company logos and designs, Garment Printing makes it happen.
www.garmentprinting.co.uk
The 9th edition of Interfiliere Shanghai & Shanghai Mode Lingerie, two trade fairs dedicated to lingerie and swimwear were held from October 22-23, 2013 at Shanghai Exhibition Centre. The two-day show saw nearly 7,300 visitors from 60 countries.
One of the main attractions in this edition was the trend forum by Concepts Paris. It showcased selected fabric and product samples and gave away the trends for next lingerie and swimwear collections. With the aim of bridging the gap between Chinese and international lingerie and swimwear brands, Shanghai Mode Lingerie had a new format and layout.
The two day event also saw trend and branding seminars that was attended by designers, marketing managers and buyers looking for the latest trends. Concepts Paris, Carlin International, Stylesight gave away insights and information for next collections and seasons.
Shanghai Mode Lingerie also developed a top-class business club, exclusively focused on B2B meetings, to give visitors a unique opportunity to meet and sit down with brands. This helped existing and potential partners to know the products better and learn more about the brand identity and image.
For the first time, Eurovet collaborated with Stylesight, the leading content and technology solution provider for professionals in the style, fashion and design sectors. They presented beachwear trends for S/S 2015. Specialists explored the latest collections of 269 Interfiliere exhibitors and 41 lingerie and swimwear brands from Europe, US and Asia. The trade show attracted 71 per cent Chinese visitors. The top regions and provinces were Guangdong, Shanghai, Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Fujian and Beijing.
International visitors from Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan, South Korea, United States, Thailand, Russia etc, attended the show. This time exhibition space increased from two to three halls. This edition profiled 269 local and international exhibitors from 17 countries divided into seven product-base.
Made in France, the high-end apparel and accessories manufacturing trade show will take place in Paris from April, 9 to 10, 2014. This time the event will take place at a new venue, the Carreau du Temple. In fact, the historical venue where the event is set, is a major highlight this time. It will enable the show to build on the success of 2013 and encourage world-renowned contemporary know-how, techniques and craftsmanship to remain at the cutting edge of fashion. In keeping with the venue’s community spirit, ‘Made in France’ plans to open certain exhibitions and events to the general public.
The Carreau du Temple site, home to an open-air market, was ordained for the trade of old linens, clothes and rags, which was transferred out of Les Halles at the beginning of the 19th century. By 1808, the newly-covered market traded in carpets, silks, ribbons, gloves, feathers, household linen, leather, and second-hand clothes. In 1904, the market hosted the first Foire de Paris (Paris Fair). It was a huge hit with the public and the Carreau du Temple became a hotspot for stylish men and women with limited means. Sports arrived at the Carreau in 1920, although fashion, particularly men’s fashion in the 1960s and 70s, remained the district’s speciality. Since the 1980s, the Carreau du Temple hosted Paris Fashion Week’s catwalks, connecting it to a world of luxury and fashion.
This edition of the show will gain momentum as it has got a new shareholder called PV Manufacturing. The district’s ready-to-wear designers, jewellery and accessories workshops and leading school of applied arts will continue to establish connections between fashion and production at Made In France. Around100 exhibitors from apparel and accessories manufacturing experts with exclusive rights to label their products ‘Made in France’, will be among the first to fill this new fashion hotspot, which also boasts of sports and cultural facilities. The high-end manufacturing trade show will bring together experts with the capacity to turn fashion and accessories designers’ visions into reality, in one ideal location.
After years of work and investment in R & D, Miroglio Textile has come up with a new method of printing textiles called E.volution. A one-of-a-kind, this method improves quality standards in terms of technical and environmental performance. It is a combination of advanced next-gen digital printing, great environmental responsibility and outstanding creativity.
E.volution has recently added two new products namely Twin Fabs and Filature Miroglio. Filature Miroglio, part of Miroglio Textile, is a range of yarns made of a blend of 80 per cent Tencel and 20 per cent Ecolabel certified regenerated noble fibres such as wool, alpaca, cachemire. These yarns has been woven and printed with the E.volution system by Miroglio Textile.
Unique ingredients together with the cooperation and skills of an important partner like Lenzing, coordinated and implemented by Miroglio Textile in yarn, fabric and printing innovation, makes this range really unique in its look, touch and functionality from both technical and sustainability point of view.
Saluzzo Yarns, part of Sinterama Group has recently introduced the ultimate top innovation of the Newlife platform. The new ‘Thermal management’ range by Newlife offers new levels of lightness and thermal insulation together with high sustainable performance. It’s an unique range that fits new applications both for casual and active wear. New textile partnerships were made which were in line with manufacturers requirements.
For work wear, unique offers came from a complete supply chain based on Newlife yarns, woven by French weaver Chamatex with the inclusion of Sympatex sustainable laminate for a specific high quality top work wear (police, transports etc) fabric range, with enhanced mechanical properties, abrasion resistance and colour fastness. The ultra thin membrane ensures excellent handle and comfort stretch. It has dynamic breathability which means, the more the body perspires, the more moisture the membrane can transport outwards. The membrane is 100 per cent recycled and recyclable.
Newlife is the result of an ambitious project developed by Saluzzo Yarns. It is a unique, complete and certified system of recycled polyester yarns obtained entirely from used plastic bottles, which are transformed into a polymer by mechanical, and non-chemical process, right up to the production of the 100 per cent ‘Made in Italy’ yarn thanks to an exclusive horizontal partnership agreement. The knowledge gained by Saluzzo Yarns, together with its on going research aimed at innovation and the complete, patented process, which forms the basis of this entirely Italian-made project, makes Newlife into an incredibly flexible platform.
Manufacturers of readymade garments (RMG) have decided to propose a minimum wage Tk 4,500 for garment workers before the wage board.
The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) held a meeting with all former presidents and other business leaders to take their opinion on the wage hike.
In its last meeting held in August, the wage board had asked owners' and leaders to submit their proposals in the next meeting. The meeting was attended by its office bearers including president Atiqul Islam among others.
Arshad Jamal Dipu, who is representing the owners, said there is a scope for government interference in the recommendations of the wage board and if the government wants, it can increase the wages. "The industry can't afford a minimum wage of more than Tk 5,000 ($64.7) at this moment," he said. "That is why we want to discuss the matter with the government so that the final wage remains within Tk 5,000."
Nazma Akter, resident of Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation said workers will be cheated if their basic payment is not increased properly. She feared that it might lead to an unwanted unrest among workers if their demand is neglected.
Bangladesh Bank has launched an inquiry into the recent substantial increase in garments machinery import despite ongoing political turmoil to see whether there is any attempt to draw off money abroad through over-invoicing. The opening of LCs for import of capital machinery increased by 23 per cent in July-August period of the current fiscal year over the same period of the last fiscal year. The value of LC opened against capital machinery stood at $428 million and settlement stood at $380 million during the period as compared to $348.31 million and $334 million respectively in the corresponding period of the last year.
Bangladesh Bank senior executives suspect money laundering activities as opening of import letter of credit (LC) increased substantially during the fag end of the present government tenure. Generally, the trend is witnessed at the end of every government. They said the ill attempts are being made through over-invoicing as the imported machinery are reported as new and at higher price, but actually those would be second hand ones at lower price.
The rising trend is illogical, say experts, as the entrepreneurs remain shy of making fresh investment in this situation of political instability ahead of the upcoming general election. Earlier, Anti Corruption Commission of Bangladesh had moved to investigate the cause of significant increase in LC opening.
The value of Nepal’s readymade garments exports have risen by 17.8 per cent year-on-year, during the first two months of Nepali financial year that began on July 16, 2013. Depreciation of the Nepali currency vis-à-vis the US dollar was the major factor contributing factor that increased exports. On July 16, 2013, the exchange rate for 1 US dollar was Np Rs 95.01, which gradually rose to Rs 101.47 on September 15, 2013.
Nepal exported garments worth Np Rs 786.2 million ($8 million) in July to September, 2013 period as compared to exports worth Np Rs 667.4 million ($6.8 million) made during the corresponding period of last fiscal, as per the latest data from the Nepal Rastra Bank. During the two-month period, Nepal’s garment exports to India increased to Np Rs 55.1 million ($0.55 million), as against exports valued at Np Rs 35.2 million ($0.36 million) made during the same period last year.
For Nepal, garments were the second-largest export item, after hand knitted carpets, during 1990-2000 and fetched Np Rs 13.12 billion ($0.13 billion) at its peak. However, apparel exports declined to Np Rs 11.89 billion ($0.12 billion) in 2003-04, and then to around Np Rs 4 billion ($0.04) in 2012-13.
The inclusion of garments in the revised GSP would help Nepali clothing to qualify for preferential access to the US market. In addition, the Ministry of Commerce and Supplies (MoCS) is also considering the inclusion of garments in the Nepal Trade Integration Strategy 2010 priority product list, in order to boost the sector.
Cambodia’s garment exports continued to grow in the first nine months of the year in spite of the political uncertainty. The country’s garments and footwear exports were worth $4.1 billion in the first nine months of this year, a rise of 22 per cent from the $3.44 billion in the nine months upto September 2012, the Ministry of Commerce has revealed. As per Garment Manufacturers Association in Cambodia (GMAC), though volumes have increased, factory profit margins were squeezed due to labour disputes and demand for higher wages.
GMAC points out that the US is the biggest market for Cambodian garments and textiles, with imports worth $1.21 billion in the first nine months. Europe, Canada and Japan are the major importers.
Hing Thoraxy, Senior Researcher at the Cambodia Institute for Cooperation and Peace said increasing garment exports reflects Cambodia’s improved economic conditions in and its growing importance in the exports market. Thoraxy added that while output is good, more is needed to diversify and enhance production levels. “We need to shift from simple T-shirts to produce more complicated products such as coats and shirts with embroidery, to add value to the product,” he said.
www.gmac-cambodia.org
Following the reduction of China’s share in the global textile and clothing trade coupled with the anticipated GSP Plus status for Pakistan by the EU in early 2014 Pakistan can earn an additional $700 million per year. Industry sources reveal Pakistan is working to get the Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) plus status by January, 2014 from EU which will allow textile products greater access to those markets. The sole purpose of GSP scheme is to help poor countries by making it easier for them to export their products to EU at reduced tariffs.
In FY13, textile contributed 53 per cent to Pakistan total exports of $24.6 billion. Textile sector will gain as EU is likely to grant GSP plus status to Pakistan. Currently, any importer in EU who imports Pakistani textile products has to pay 11 per cent duty, which makes Pakistani products costly.
The new GSP legislation has set enhanced monitoring of the conventions (every two instead of three years) and with scrutiny by the European Parliament. GSP plus offers preferences over and above the standard GSP by covering roughly 70 more lines mostly duty-free. Pakistan is currently eligible for the GSP plus status and most likely will get the status in January, 2014. Neighbouring countries like India, Bangladesh are holding GSP standard which offer partial reduction in tariff and Afghanistan has EBA status which allows it to export everything but arms absolutely duty-free and quota-free.
Italian textile industry has still to recover from the economic slowdown reveals latest data. The first part of 2013 shows a negative trend for the industry, with signs of a slight recovery during the second quarter of 2013. According to ISTAT data on industrial production (adjusted for the work calendar), during the first and second quarter of 2013, the Italian textile industry (excluding knitted fabrics) suffered a setback when compared to the same period in 2012, registering negative figures for the 7th consecutive quarter. The first quarter of 2013 was characterized by a -3.3 per cent production decrease, while the second quarter showed weak improvement, despite the negative zone (-0.4 per cent). It has been observed that in the first half of 2013, the Italian textile industry registered a slight production slowdown (-1.8 per cent).
The entire textile industry follows a similar trend as the weaving sector, holding steady during the 2nd quarter and then beginning to stabilize, as in 2012. During the first half of the current year, the textile industry experienced a slight decrease in production (-2.1 per cent).
During the first five months of 2013, Italian fabric export remained in the negative. From January to May 2013, foreign sales of Italian fabrics registered a slight decrease amounting to -3.4 per cent in value and -4.0 per cent in quantity. A minor decline characterized silk fabric import (-3.7 per cent) during the first five months of 2013. Considering these results, the total turnover for the January-May 2013 period, was only slightly below that of the previous year (934 million euros to 846 million euros, a reduction of 88 million euros).
Among the top 10 market outlets, only Turkey and Hong Kong were in the positive zone, increasing by +12.8 per cent and +1.0 per cent, respectively. Even though Germany remains the primary market outlet for Italian fabrics, there was a slight decline in export (-4.1 per cent) as there was to France (-2.6 per cent).
During the first five months of 2013, China is once again the leading supplier, covering 25.9 per cent of total fabric import, still in the positive zone (+0.4%). Turkey makes up +23 per cent (compared to -19.4 per cent registered last year). Fabric import from the Czech Republic and Pakistan has increased +5.3 per cent and +10.7 per cent respectively, while imports from Spain (-2.1 per cent) and India (-16.2 per cent) are in decline.
Libolon is a core brand of LeaLea Enterprise and Li Peng Enterprise who offer global services in both nylon and polyester. The services include polymerization, spinning, weaving, dyeing to post finishing processes. With 30 years of experience and fully automatic production lines for bulk production, Libolon is the best textile partner in Asia. Libolon develops RePET, recycled yarns and recycled fabrics, creating eco textiles that help protect the environment and natural ecosystems. These recycled yarns and recycled fabrics are made by recycling plastic bottles. Its features include free of petrochemicals, conserve natural resources, and reduce the environmental burden while still offering high-quality textile solutions. It can be used in any nearly any textile application.
Libolon’s innovative RePET solution and recycled yarns are more environmentally-friendly than traditional RePET products due to the elimination of the dyeing process. Using recycled fabrics and eco textiles, Libolon’s RePET-solution and rpet recycled yarns reduce emissions of GHG and COD, lower water consumption, and decrease the amount of chemicals involved in the production process. RePET-solution rpet recycled yarns also offer higher performance, including light-protection, water-protection, washing-protection, anti-UV, anti-aging, anti-weathering, and colour reproducibility properties. Libolon’s RePET-solutions is the best choice for recycled fabric and eco textile products.
The Taiwan Textile Research Institute (TTRI) showcased a range of cutting-edge textile innovations and research at the recent ‘2013 Textile International Forum and Exhibition’. The exhibition is a part of the Taipei Innovation Textile Application Show which runs at the Taipei World Trade Centre Nangang Exhibition Hall. The TTRI’s pavilion caught visitor’s attention with a great mountain vest mockup, symbolizing the recent establishment of Taiwan Outdoor Group (TOG), an organization that joins together more than 20 local outdoor gear brands.
“The image of TOG highlights Taiwan outdoor gear brands as a whole. When we go abroad to do promotions, we introduce Taiwan as our brand concept, rather than individual products, says TTRI Executive Vice President Lien Jung-shen. At present, TOG has 22 members, including well known names like Atunas, GoHiking and Global Spirit.
TOG Chairman Robin Hsu says, the market for outdoor gear is worth $6 billion in South Korea and $2 billion in China. “The potential growth for Taiwan’s outdoor gear market is big because it is only $0.2 billion now,” he said.
Apart from TOG, the TTRI also showcased innovations in fabrics, such as the iodine antimicrobial yarn, which incorporates organic iodine agents in its fibre, perpetuating the antibacterial effect. In the past, antibacterial agents were processed onto the finished cloth. However, the TTRI’s R&D team has succeeded in manufacturing yarns that are already antimicrobial, so that the textile remains germ-free at all times.
Uzbekistan, the sixth largest cotton producer, has been facing a boycott by western firms owing to the use of child labour during harvesting. But now it has cracked a new deal to export 300,000 tonnes of cotton fibre to China in a bid to explore new markets. The country has also allowed monitoring of its harvest by the International Labour Organisation (ILO), while the reports of forced labour continue to creep in even this year.
Apart from China, the country has initiated an agreement with Bangladesh to export 200,000 tonnes of fibre in August. The two Asian manufacturing hubs will together account for around five-sixths of Uzbekistan's total cotton fibre exports, which are expected to total around 600,000 tonnes this year.
Uzbekistan officials may finalise the agreement with China at a cotton industry fair in October, which will give a boost to China's share of the harvest from around 15 per cent to 50 per cent, making it the single largest buyer of Uzbek cotton. At the same time, the Uzbek government is keen to increase domestic processing of locally produced cotton to 50 per cent.
www.ilo.org
Jeanologia, the Spanish company and world leader in development of sustainable technologies for garment finishing will present its latest offerings at the Denim by PV Asia and Intertextile events in Shanghai. It aims to transform the Chinese textile production model into efficient, sustainable and automated process. Jeanologia developed textile laser that reproduces jeans wear and tear avoiding the use of harmful techniques that could damage health of the workers, allowing savings in energy water, chemicals and time, at the same time getting automated production. In addition, eco-G2 uses ozone washing and oxygen from the atmosphere, which helps in saving over 60 per cent water and energy and about 85 per cent in chemicals.
Enrique Silla, President of Jeanologia says, "Asian textile production is increasingly directed towards automation, productivity and social responsibility, the use of laser technology, E-soft and ozone developed by our company, will contribute to this goal.” Silla also stressed on the importance of transparency in the Chinese textile industry because, he feels the industry must be concerned about the environment, health of workers and sustainability. "What matters is not only the product itself but the way in which it is made, how it is done," he explains.
He also highlighted the importance of the partnership between Prosperity and Jeanologia to transform the Chinese market, and stated that "China will remain the world's leading producer of jeans this time thanks to the efficiency of sustainable technologies like laser treatments or using ozone instead of water.”
Fashion, Vintage and Who collections to be exhibited at both events, will allow visitors to know more about the multiple effects that can be achieved and compare the garments before and after application of textile finishing techniques. Fashion features the latest fashion trends adapted to laser, Vintage is a purist collection getting back to basics created by laser and ‘Who is using laser’, shows how the world's most recognized brands use laser and ozone technology of Jeanologia in their collections, either for a premium denim or a low cost collection.
Jeanologia products and solutions are currently being used in more than 45 countries including China, México, Colombia, Brazil, USA, Germany, Italy, Portugal, India, Russia, Japan, Morocco and Bangladesh.
The 16th edition of Milano Unica discovered new potential catering to sustainability issues. In an attempt to promote sustainability, Sustainability-lab.net; an online social network of textile and fashion professionals who are actively promoting sustainability in the fashion business invited a selected group of exhibiting companies to participate in a ‘Catalogue of Sustainable Fabrics and Accessories’.
The project, supported by Milano Unica, is breaking new ground for the Italian textile community and represents a roll-out, fine-tuning step to test market reactions that will be further developed at next editions of Milano Unica. The ‘Catalogue’ openly declares the parameters used in the evaluation and sustainable practices are summarized through easy-to-read icons in companies’ data sheets.
The catalogue was designed and created by Sustainability-lab with the support of Milano Unica. As Massimo Mosiello, Managing Director of Milano Unica says, “The catalogue does not cover completely the supply of sustainable fabrics and accessories showcased at Milano Unica yet. It is however a first positive test that allowed us to check ‘hands on’ companies’ sensitiveness about sustainability and to better understand the narrative of the companies’ strategies for sustainability. We are committed to ban green washing practices and to value actual engagement in sustainability. This first group of companies presented in the ‘Catalogue’ has cooperated with Sustainability-lab in developing an effective and meaningful language to frame in a concise but clear way companies’ commitment to sustainable practices."
Sustainability-lab project manager explained that the first step of the project led them to meet companies seriously committed to reducing environmental impact, to develop measures of social engagement, to use eco-friendly, renewable or recycled materials. “Our commitment is to widen the scope of the ‘Catalogue’, starting from next Milano Unica edition in September, in order to encompass a wider range of sustainable fabrics and accessories."
Groups representing various apparel manufacturers, brands and retailers in Africa and the US are calling for the swift renewal of the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) before its expiry in September 2015. Groups backing the calls for immediate renewal of AGOA include: African Cotton and Textile Industries Federation (ACTIF), American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), National Retail Federation (NRF), Outdoor Industry Association (OIA), Retail Industry Leaders Association (RILA), and United States Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel (USA-ITA).
As sourcing decisions are made many months in advance, the groups want AGOA to be renewed as soon as possible that is by 2013 and no later than 2014. Another goal is to see AGOA renewed for a longer period; at least 15 years to ensure the predictability necessary to support trade and investment decisions.
Short term renewals will not provide enough certainty to enable the industry to make capital intensive investment decisions necessary to attract textile investments or affect long term sourcing partnership decisions. Another call is for long-term renewal of the third country fabric provision, which has become central to AGOA.
Pakistan’s textile and clothing exports witnessed a growth of 9.99 per cent in the first quarter of the current fiscal compared to last year. Export proceeds from these sectors rebounded following substantial increase in export of raw cotton and value-added products, reveals data Pakistan Bureau of Statistics. Export of textile and clothing surged to $3.576 billion in July-Sept 2013 up from $3.251billion during the corresponding months of last year.
A sector-wise analysis showed that export of low value-added products, such as cotton yarn, was up by 8.55 per cent, cotton cloth 4.01 per cent, made-up articles 9.95 per cent, and other textile material 10.84 per cent in first three months of the current fiscal year over same months last year.
Depreciation of Pakistani currency is also one of the catalyst for export increase during the first quarter of the current fiscal year. In terms of rupees, exports proceeds witnessed a growth of 19.82 per cent in July-September 2013 this year from a year ago.
Cotton carded, yarn other than cotton yarn, towels and art silk products witnessed a negative growth in July-Sept 2013 over the same months last year. Exports witnessed a growth because of increase in export to the European markets owing to preferential market access on selected products.
The growth in yarn and fabric exports was mainly due to improved energy supply. Total export proceeds witnessed a growth of 9.23 per cent to $6.712 billion in July-Sept 2013 from $6.144 billion over the corresponding period of last year.
The International Finance Corporation (IFC) has launched the ‘Better Work Bangladesh’ (BWB) program to improve working conditions of thousands of readymade garment factories (RMG) workers and promote its competitiveness. BWB is part of Better Work global program funded by the governments of Australia, the Netherlands and Switzerland. The government of Bangladesh and Better Work have agreed to link the continuation of the program to progress made relating to specific commitments.
In a joint initiative with the International Labor Organization (ILO), the BWB will provide factory-level services including compliance assessment in line with national labor laws and international standards, and advisory and training services to improve the workers' working conditions.
BWB will build partnerships with the government, employers, unions, buyers, and other industry stakeholders. The goal of the program is to promote sustainable change in the sector by helping factories improve working condition and building capacity for better labor administration and industrial relations. The program will be funded by Switzerland and the United States.
By helping improve working conditions in RMG, BWB will not just put people first but will also improve productivity, safeguard jobs and investment, and promote growth of the sector.
Mitsubishi Rayon Group, a renowned synthetic acrylic and acetate fibre manufacturer develops polyester fibre and polypropylene fibre for carpet, clothing products etc. It has recently launched a unique fibre called ‘Soalon’. Soalon is a semi-synthetic fibre derived from cellose but excels in thermal setting characteristics. The pleats are kept after repeated washing. Soalon is classified into semi-synthetic fibre and triacetate ‘Soalon’ is made from hightly pulified wool pulp and acetic acid. It has natural beauty and yet has many functions achieved by highly advanced technology.
Soalon features are its low refractive index and random grooves on the surface of the filament. Random grooves, diffuse light and gives a refined sheen and its low refractive index creates vivid colour development. The raw material used in Soalon is wood pulp. Soalon has high moisture content compared to synthetic fabrics. As a result, it causes less unpleasant static electricity and gives a gentle touch to the skin. When Soalon releases sweat and dampness, it takes away the heat of vaporization around it. The fabric itself is cooled, maintaining coolness inside clothing and gives a comfortable feeling.
Soalon is made from trees, which gives it higher moisture content compared to synthetic fabrics. This means that ‘Soalon’ causes less unpleasant static electricity and gives a gently touch to the skin. It has moderate firmness and resilience.
Italian company, RES Spa showcased its Autumn/Winter collection 2014-’15 at Premier Vision (Paris). The hi-tech collection featuring neoprene acquires new properties such as high water-resistance, breathability, excellent temperature control. All these make it a unique material for winter clothing. Designed as an active wear, the collection can also be used in other sectors due to its outstanding features.
Its silver fabric consists of a knitted nylon coated with silver fibres. Besides having bacteriostatic features, the fabric creates a barrier to electromagnetic waves. It also possesses exceptional technical characteristics derived from the continuous research conducted by the company that confers to garments and accessories features of elastic resistance, bacteriostatic and anti-static effect, stain resistance in addition to wear resistance and resistance to atmospheric agents. Furs and meshes embellished with metallic effects, two tone fleece, warm and breathable, flocked 3D fabric printed fabrics with veiled transparencies among others are part of the unique collection.
RES Spa specializes in lamination of high-tech fabrics, devoting particular attention and efforts to applications in the fields of sports, footwear, furnishings, safety-wear and car interiors. Its products are environment friendly, heat resistant and water resistant and extremely resistant to delamination. The textile solutions developed by RES can be applied to a wide range of synthetic and natural materials.
RES gives constant attention to R&D, making use of considerable investments in terms of human and financial capital, carrying out its activities availing of its well-equipped laboratory for materials.
The second stage of Singapore's Indorama Industry’s textile production has become operational in the Ferghana region of Uzbekistan. After the second phase worth $31 million was commissioned, the cotton fibre processing enterprise's capacity increased by 5,000 tons to 15,000 tons. The project was financed through a direct investment worth $25 million by the Singapore-based company and by loans from foreign banks involved in project financing. Swiss company Rieter supplied equipment to the textile complex. The project implementation ensured increased capacity of processing cotton fibre up to 10,000 tons per year.
Indorama Kokand Textail joint venture was established with a capital of $20 million, where Indorama has a 75 per cent stake, the National Bank for Foreign Economic Activity, a 25 per cent.
Uzbekistan is the sixth world producer and the third largest exporter of cotton fibre. An average of 3.5-3.7 million tons of raw cotton is harvested and 1-1.2 million tons of cotton fibre produced in the country annually. More than 75 per cent of cotton fibre is exported.
Thermore, a worldwide leader in research, production and marketing of thermal insulations for apparel and sleeping bags has launched ‘Thermore ARIA’, a perfect technical synthetic alternative to real down feathers. An Italian word, ‘Aria’ means air in English. It perfectly describes this new insulation which is 98 per cent air by volume: ultra-light, soft and an efficient high-loft insulator. Aria product mimics the look of down when quilted with suitable fabrics. It is hypo-allergenic and does not contain any dangerous chemicals (it's free of PFOS and PFOA) and offers a very safe and humane alternative to using animal products for quilted outerwear.
The insulation does not need to be applied with specialized machinery or unique garment construction. Also, problems of fibre migration does not exist due to Thermore's proprietary finishing process-thus preserving the long term quality and appearance of the garment. Aria is an excellent alternative to down in with regards its appearance, health and ethical concerns, cost, availability and overall performance.
Thermore is dedicated to innovation and is using its experience to anticipate market demand with new products such as ARIA that are perfectly designed for purpose. ARIA straddles the seasons with an almost impalpable touch, yet still offers a full winter thermal performance.
Thermore was founded in 1972 in Milan and is a worldwide leader in the research, production and marketing of thermal insulation for apparel and sleeping bags with operations in Europe, US and Asia including production facilities in Thailand and offices in Hong Kong. The global presence of the Thermore Group makes it possible for international clients to benefit from its market leading experience at a convenient and cost effective price point. Thermore’s current product range includes Classic, Ecodown, Rinnova, Pro, and now ARIA. Thermore is a member of the Italian Outdoor Group, Outdoor Industry Association, SnowSports Industries America and of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.
The IX International Uzbek Cotton and Textile Fair commenced in Tashkent on October 16, 2013. Over 1,000 representatives of cotton and textile industry firms and companies from 40 countries are participating in the event. Fibre samples of this year's Uzbek cotton harvest and new textile products have been put up for sale in the exhibition halls of capital's Uzexpocenter. During the fair, participants will be able to conclude a contract for the selected batch of products and discuss the transportation routes. Given the importance of further development of the national textile industry, cotton forum participants will be able to get acquainted with the investment potential of the country's regions and projects in the textile industry.
The Fair's program provides for a conference, which will discuss the current problems and prospects of the development of world cotton market. The conference participants, including leading international experts in the field of world cotton and textile industry, will discuss issues as demand and offer, prices and factors of influence on the world cotton market, conditions and prospects of production and marketing of cotton in Uzbekistan.
Cotton Council International (CCI) organized a comprehensive Cotton USA Supply Chain Marketing event in Guangzhou from October 8-12. Renowned U S spinners got an opportunity to meet 25 new Chinese companies and visit six factories in the Guangzhou area. A detailed presentation on the attributes of US open-end yarn and benefits of Supima yarn for high-quality products were part of the event. CCI also presented information on US cotton production and spinning locations. Following the one-and-a-half-day private trade fair, US mills toured a variety of factories, met with purchasing managers and discussed product needs.
There has been 192 per cent increase in US cotton exports to China totalling to 173,000 bale equivalents since the first cotton trip to China. Sales in the first eight months of 2013 of US cotton yarns reached $120 million, which is ahead of the $44 million at the same time last year. The climate for imported cotton yarn to China remains excellent.
Cotton Council International (CCI), the export promotion arm of the National Cotton Council of America (NCC) is dedicated to promoting quality US cotton, cotton seed and their products. CCI represents the export promotion interests of the US cotton industry’s seven segments i.e. producers, ginners, warehouses, merchants, cottonseed handlers, cooperatives and manufacturers. CCI has more than 55 years of experience promoting US cotton fibre and products to the trade and to consumers around the world.
With the aim of promoting wool, Australia’s Campaign for Wool has initiated a program called ‘Wool Week’ this month. The highlight of the event was to encourage manufacturers, retailers, designers, editors and consumers to nominate OneWool product of their choice. This new promotion follows the success of Wool House, the major interiors and lifestyle showcase held in March 2013 at Somerset House, where the Campaign for Wool saw a deluge of products from wool interior businesses across the world. The Campaign is now keen to see how it can bring more wool products together by launching a social media and showroom promotion.
The program is being held on a larger scale this time and it is going to be launched in the US and will be open to everyone to celebrate wool as a global fibre. It encourages all participants to put wool and its creative edge at the top of the agenda for design.
The Campaign for Wool is a broad and flexible program with an objective to promote wool as a natural, biodegradable and renewable fibre educating on its natural qualities and benefits. The campaign is held every year through a sequence of Wool Weeks in the most important countries and cities of the world through co-branding initiatives and in-store animations and promotions, with its recognizable educational approach.
Australia and the United States have launched a program, ‘Cotton Leads’ that aims to highlight responsible and transparent ways that cotton is grown in these two countries. The new initiative includes conventional and organic upland and pima cotton grown in Australia and the United States, which together account for around 17 per cent of global cotton production. The two partners emphasize the new program will complement, rather than compete with, existing cotton sustainability certification programs.
Cotton Leads is designed to assist businesses along the cotton supply chain with their sustainability goals. Apparel brands, retailers, and manufacturers require large volumes and a reliable supply of responsibly-produced fiber as well as proof of responsible production. Cotton Leads helps demonstrate how cotton grown in the United States and Australia can help meet these requirements.
The program is committed to providing the supply chain with greater volumes of responsibly-grown cotton, to ongoing improvement, and the transparency of processes and metrics. It aims to increase the global supply of responsibly produced cotton, by including cotton from countries that demonstrate responsible production practices with transparent national reporting and regulatory enforcement.
The depreciating rupee against dollar has boosted profits of the largest textile industry of the country, as the listed textile firms profit have jumped by 150 per cent to Rs 30.6 billion in fiscal year 2013. The fall of rupee is being viewed as a positive sign for exports of Pakistan, as the local currency has fallen 8 per cent since the beginning of 2013. Moreover, it depreciated faster in the last two months, as it went down by a sharp 4 per cent against the dollar. With a share of over 50 per cent in the country’s total exports, the textile industry has emerged stronger in fiscal 2013-14.
Industry sources believed that Pakistan’s textile exports are going to benefit from two major reasons, as China is focusing more on the technology sector instead of textile, but yarn demand from China is growing. Bangladesh which is the second biggest textile exporter in the world after China, is not getting the same number of export orders as it was getting a year ago. The country is facing major challenges in safety concerns of textile workers. Recent fire incidents in factories of Bangladesh, where hundreds of workers had died, attracted negative international media coverage.
The listed companies, which cover 85 per cent of textile sector market capitalization, are very small compared to total Pakistan textile industry. So the actual profits of the textile industry would be much more than Rs 30.6 billion.
As per latest media report India is likely to withdraw the 12 per cent countervailing duty (CVD) it charges on apparel imports from Bangladesh. Revenue secretary Sumit Bose, recently assured a high-level Bangladesh delegation of positively considering the issue. The joint working group meeting is scheduled for October, 20-22 in Dhaka where Bangladesh will raise the issue again. Bose is likely to head the Indian delegation in the meeting.
Sources reveal India was charging 12 per cent excise duty on its domestic apparel production. In order to ensure a level-playing field for both local products and imports, it imposed the 12 per cent CVD after granting the duty-free access for all but 25 goods from the LDCs. However, in the last budget, India withdrew excise duty on local apparel production, but it did not withdraw the CVD creating an uneven competition for the exports to Indian market, the sources said. <br/
The 12 per cent CVD also reduced competitiveness of Bangladeshi exporters and hindered the level-playing field. As a result it emerged as a barrier to reducing the trade gap between the two countries. Referring to Bangladesh's trade gap with India, sources say even the duty-free access facility could hardly reduce the imbalance. The Bangladeshi delegation told Bose that such discrimination would further widen the gap since export of apparels, Bangladesh's major export item, face the CVD barrier.
Abdus Salam Murshedy, President of the Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB), told media that when India granted the duty-free access for almost all LDC goods, it should not create such an obstacle to export of any specific goods.
www.bgmea.com.bd
The 15th Heimtextil Russia was held from September 25 to 27 at the IEC Crocus Expo in Moscow, Russia and gathered the key players of the international textile business. This year, a total of 15,117 professional trade visitors witnessed the best collections of textile and wall coverings by 311 companies from 21 countries such as Austria, Bangladesh, Belarus, Germany, Greece, Egypt, India, Spain, China, Moldova, UAE, Pakistan, Poland, Portugal, Russia, USA, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, France. The national pavilions of Germany, Spain, Italy, China, Pakistan, Portugal, Turkey participated at the event this year too whereas India and Taiwan pavilions were the new entrants.
Leaders of the home and interior textile industry took part in Heimtextil Russia 2013. The latest collections of international textiles were exhibited by Eke, Hefel, Texathenea, Aydin Orme, Sleepwell Kauffmann, Zorlu, Angelo Carillo & C S.p.A., Welspun Global Brands Ltd, among others. The special show for wallpaper and wall coverings had leading Russian and foreign companies such as KT Exclusive, LeDimore, Art-Master and Pan-El.
Heimtextil Russia makes visiting the exposition maximally effective and convenient for its visitors. This year, the fair presented a new online platform which was available as a mobile application for Android and iOS. Fair visitors could download this application and use it to check the fair exposition and plan their schedule correctly for maximum benefit.
Li Peng Enterprise which makes nylon products, has said that it will become the world’s largest nylon maker after it completes its expansion to increase capacity by 180,000 tonnes of nylon next year. They are adding one more production line, and after the expansion, their capacity will increase to 580,000 tonnes of nylon a year, replacing BASF SE as the world’s largest nylon maker.
Li Peng president Jonathan Lin expects the new production line will contribute to Li Peng’s revenue starting the third quarter next year. Meanwhile, the company is also building a dying and finishing plant in Yangmei, Taoyuan County, enabling it to sell finished fabrics to its clients. Their Japanese clients can purchase fabrics directly from them and ship it to Southeast Asia. Lin forecast that the dying and finishing plant could raise the company’s revenue by NT$10 billion ($340 million) in 2015.
From January through last month, Li Peng posted revenue of NT$19.77 billion, up 0.69 per cent from NT$19.63 billion a year ago, according to the company’s filing to the Taiwan Stock Exchange. During the first six months of the year, the company registered a profit of NT$561.02 million, up from the losses of NT$508.08 million a year ago, when the company suffered from low nylon prices, the filing showed.
Cashmere World 2013, the world’s only trade fair dedicated to cashmere and other fibres was held from September 25-27 at Hong Kong. Co-organized by the China Chamber of Commerce of Import & export of Foodstuffs, Native Produce and Animal by-Products and UBM Asia., the event runs concurrently with Fashion Access, an exhibition dedicated to head-to-toe fashions, enabling both fairs to benefit from each other’s synergy.
More than 60 exhibitors and 2,000 buyers visited the fair. Outsourcing as well as quality, marketing, supply chain and sustainability issues; the advent of new technologies and fashion trends were among the topics debated at the Cashmere World Forum that was held over two days which attracted cashmere industry’s experts and aficionados from all over the world.
There was a lot of buzz around the Afghan Made cashmere booth. Afghanistan is currently the third largest producer of cashmere in the world after China and Mongolia but due to lack of training and equipment, only 30 per cent of the country’s cashmere is currently harvested. Philip Eddleston, Cashmere Specialist and Advisor of AfghanMade, the label developed for and by the US task force project, predicted that Afghan Cashmere will come as an identified product by the end of 2014. Production from Afghanistan is hoped to alleviate the worrying global shortage of raw material, attributed to the reduction of grazing land and of animals raised for their fibres. Meanwhile, despite the much talked about decrease of competitiveness of China, the country is expected to remain the world’s main cashmere manufacturer for the years to come.
Data released by Japan Textile Importers Association reveals that the value of apparel imports made by Japan in August 2013 increased by 21.4 per cent year-on-year to 280,732 million yen. This data is based on the Ministry of Finance trade statistics. August was the fifth consecutive month when Japan’s apparel imports increased both in terms of value and volume. Japan’s garment imports from Asean nations shot up by 45.3 per cent to 41, 681 million yen in August, while volume grew by 19.4 per cent to 50.639 million units. Among Asean countries, Japan’s clothing imports from Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia and Myanmar showed an increase.
In 2012, Japan’s total clothing imports were valued at US$ 32.073 billion, compared to imports of $31.110 billion and $25.262 billion made in 2011 and 2010 respectively, according to relevant data. China was the largest supplier of apparels to Japan in August with 300.513 million units, almost same as the quantity supplied during the corresponding period of last year. The value of Japan’s apparel imports from China rose by 16.5 per cent to 211,992 million yen, during the month.
Sri Lankan apparel exporters are demanding flexible labour laws and revisions in energy tariffs to facilitate apparel manufacture by lowering cost of production. “Energy costs continue to be a large and increasing part of our industry. We would look at removal of the fuel adjustment charge applicable under the tariffs which most of our members operate. With the commissioning of the coal power plants there is now a valid argument for the removal of this surcharge. Our association has made a number of observations to the Public Utilities Commission (PUC) and we would seek an opportunity to discuss these in detail as we believe there are some fundamental issues in the way the current tariff system is structured,” Sri Lanka Apparel Exporters Association Chairman Yohan Lawrence stated at the association’s recently held AGM.
Lawrence also called for the implementation of incentive schemes for alternative energy generation, particularly in the conversion from furnace oil to biomass boilers. Meanwhile, touching on Sri Lanka’s labour laws, Lawrence called on amendments with a view to allowing factory workers to work longer hours while also allowing factories to run continuous shifts.
“Increased labour market flexibility will be a significant advantage to the industry as this allows us to have 24-hour/seven-day shift operations,” Lawrence noted. Sri Lankan factory workers are allowed a maximum of 57.5 hours in comparison to Bangladesh with 60 hours and Vietnam with 64 hours and a fixed weekly holiday. Continuous shifts may also have positive implications for Sri Lanka’s power grid, which would otherwise see a significant drop in consumption after peak hours.
www.srilanka-apparel.com
Anthropologie is opening its fourth UK store in Guildford next month. Opening on October 21, the five-storey building at 149 High Street in the centre of Guildford, will house women’s fashion, accessories and home decor, including exclusive products such as Mister Finch’s collectable objects of art...Read More
British lifestyle brand Holland & Holland, known for its traditional outdoor sporting attire, has launched its online store in America...Read More
French designer Christian Louboutin is asking a Belgian court to kill a far-right campaign using his iconic stilettos for a poster denouncing Islam, the Belga news agency reported...Read More
Alessandro Dell’Acqua has been confirmed as the new creative director at Rochas, replacing designer Marco Zanini, who was announced as the new creative director of legendary fashion house Schiaparelli. In a statement by Rochas, they confirmed the arrival of Dell’Acqua as a “new chapter” for the label, while adding that the Italian designer will still be continuing with his own brand, No.21, which showcased its latest collection in Milan. Dell’Acqua’s first collection for Rochas will be presented in Paris in February 2014...Read More
French fashion label Sonia Rykiel has appointed Nathan Levy as managing director in America.
The newly created role, which is part of the brand’s development strategy in the U.S., will see Levy overseeing the commercial management and the implementation of the company’s retail and wholesale activities in the region...Read More
Geoffrey J Finch, founder and creative director of Antipodium, has joined Topshop as part-time creative design consultant...Read More
To keep up with competition, the readymade garment industry has urged the Bangladesh government to fix a separate exchange rate for Taka against the dollar. This demand was made recently by MdAtiqul Islam, President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association(BGMEA).The demand was for a separate exchange rate for the apparel sector to narrow the difference between the cost of importing raw materials for export and the actual export rate.The past few months saw declining order for Bangladesh as several buyers were moving to India and Vietnam.“India’s readymade garment manufacturers can easily accept order now as the value of rupee against dollar has depreciated. On the other hand, our Taka has gained. This development has set us back in the competition,” said Atiqul.
Former BGMEA President Abdus Salam Murshedi agreed.“Bangladesh’s readymade garment is becoming less able to compete in the international market for many reasons. A fresh blow is the neighbouring country’s inflation.”
The recent hike in power tariff will increase the cost of production by 21 percent, making Pakistan’s industry uncompetitive in the world market, feels Muhammad YasinSiddik, Chairman All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA). Addressing a press conference recently, he said that the government had increased power tariff for the industry by 70 percent which was not acceptable.
The hike has taken the power tariff of the industry to Rs 13.16 per unit as against Rs 7.75 per unit. He said they have rejected this increase that is just because of inefficiency of GENCOS and distribution system. He said that following the directives of the Supreme Court, the federal government had already withdrawn the notification for the recent increase for the domestic consumers, while the higher tariff for the industrial sector still existed despite the fact that both increase was made through the same notification.
The chairman also disclosed that the NEPRA chairman had proposed diverting gas from the Captive Power Plants (CPPs), CNG sector and fertilizer to GENCOS (generation companies) so that they could generate expensive electricity and sell it to the industry at highest rate. He rejected this proposal presented by NEPRA chief in the Supreme Court and warned the government that the result of withdrawal of gas from CPPs would be a drastic one.
An updated assessment of economic trends and prospects in developing Asia forecasts a slowdown in the growth of Bangladesh's ready-made garment exports in the current fiscal year following a series of deadly industrial accidents in the country.Export growth is projected to slow down to 7.0 per cent on an expected weak expansion in garment exports because of some unfavourable buyer reaction in the aftermath of fatal factory fires and the horrific factory collapse. This projection is significantly lower than the government's estimate at 12.3 per cent for the year ending June 30 2014, which includes higher garment exports.
Highlighting key findings at a press conference in Dhaka, Mohammad Zahid Hossain, principal economist of ADB's (Asian Development Bank) Bangladesh Resident Mission also said labour unrest and a less competitive exchange rate may also curtail sales.
The bank's data shows Bangladesh's overall exports grew by 10.7 per cent in the fiscal year to June 2013, up from a rise of 6.2 per cent the year earlier, largely because of higher demand for low-end garments.
Garment exports, which provide close to four-fifths of export earnings, grew by 12.7 per cent, doubling the 6.6 per cent growth recorded in the prior year. This growth reflected higher demand in the EU and US, as well as faster expansion into new markets, according to the ADB.
www.adb.org
A Bangladesh factory that sews garments for The Gap and Old Navy brands routinely forces workers to work over 100 hours a week and they are slapped, shoved and punched, says a report.It also says workers live in penury, earning 20 to 24 cents an hour, and illegal firings are regular.The 68-page report focuses solely on the Next Collections factory in Ashulia, a thriving suburb of Dhaka, Bangladesh’s capital city. The factory employs 3,750 workers and 70 per cent of its production is for The Gap and Old Navy.The report contains allegations about the treatment of pregnant workers.
Charles Kernaghan, Director of the institute, said in the report ‘These abuses have been going on for more than two and a half years.”Laura Wilkinson, a spokesperson for Gap Inc, said the factory in question has been audited for working conditions and “allegations (in the report) don’t align with the audit and worker interviews.”
This shocking report comes after 1,129 garment factory workers, mostly women, died in the Rana Plaza collapse in Savar, an industrial suburb of Dhaka, on April 24, 2013.It is believed to be the deadliest garment-factory accident in history.
Data released by Hellenic Fashion Industry Association (APR) reveals the Greek textile and apparel industry performed well during the first half of 2013 in comparison to the same period last year.The textile sub-sector production declined by 10.9 percent year-on-yearfrom January to June 2013, but it was better than the 17.9 percent year-on-year dip registered during thecorresponding period of 2012. Similarly, garment sector production increased 2.4 percent year-on-year, as against a drop of 16.8 percent year-on-year in 2012.
The textile sub-sector’s turnover fell 2.2 percent year-on-year during the six-month period, while the clothing sector turnover registered a marginal growth of 0.1 percent compared to a dip of 17.8 percent year-on-year in the corresponding period of 2012.
The turnover of enterprises serving the Greek domestic market fell 2.5 percent year-on-year in textiles and 1.7 percent in clothing, APR data revealed.In the domestic market, new orders rose by 0.1 percent year-on-year in textiles during the six-month period, whereas they increased by 2.3 percent year-on-year in garments.
On the export front, textile exports from Greece during January to June 2013 period remained at the same level as in 2012 at €196.2 million.The imports of textiles by Greece decreased by 8.6 percent year-on-year from January to June 2013, while clothing imports dropped 7.4 percent year-on-year.
The American textile and apparel industries as a whole is experiencing a nascent turnaround as apparel and textile companies demand higher quality, more reliable scheduling, and fewer safety problems than they encounter overseas.
Accidents such as the factory collapse in Bangladesh this year, which killed more than 1,000 workers, have reinforced the push for domestic production. However, the industries were decimated over the last two decades and 77 percent of American workforce has been lost since 1990, as companies moved jobs abroad and manufacturers are now scrambling to find workers to fill the specialized jobs that have not been taken over by machines.
Wages for cut-and-sew jobs, the core of the apparel industry’s remaining work force, have been rising fast, increasing by 13.2 percent on an inflation-adjusted basis from 2007 to 2012, while overall private-sector pay rose just 1.4 percent.
Like manufacturers in many parts of the country, those in Minnesota are wrestling to attract a new generation of factory workers while also protecting their bottomlines in an industry where pennies per garment can make or break a business. The backbone of the new wave of manufacturing in the United States has been automation, but some tasks still require human hands.Nationally, manufacturers have established recruitment centresthat use touch screens and other interactive technology to promote the benefits of textile and apparel work.
Last year, about 142,000 people were employed as sewing-machine operators in the United States, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. In the Minneapolis-St Paul metro area, which had almost 1.75 million workers last year and where the unemployment rate as of July was 4.9 percentonly 860 were employed in 2012 as machine sewers.
www.bls.gov
Mergers and acquisitions can help garment factories of Bangladesh. Most Bangladeshi garment factories are small in size and they depend on subcontracting. Therefore, mergers can help them attain scale, where they can make the necessary investment in compliance. This in turn can help them get orders.
Compliance has a cost but there are rewards too, because of the compliance, cost of production comes down, factories get better price, knowledge, experience and training that ultimately increase Production.
One country Bangladesh can look to for inspiration is Vietnam. Vietnam may not produce better quality products but the country is disciplined and there are no strikes and other irregularities in the readymade garment sector. Further factories in Vietnam are bigger and are compliant from day one. Vietnam does not allow any factory to operate unless it’s compliant. So Bangladesh has to develop its industry to remain competitive.
Trade unionism has crept into Bangladesh garment factories, which isn’t a bad sign, but ignorant young workers aged 18 to 30 are involved in trade unionism. There needs to be a move toward legal and constructive trade unions which understand their role and function.
For now Bangladesh remains in the list of first three countries
for garment sourcing and this is expected to be the situation at least till 2020.
Textile exporters in Pakistan say the recent hike of Rs 5.89 per unit in power and Rs 4.12 per litre in petroleum would fuel inflation and ultimately affect the already crisis-hit industry.
Their main fear is the cost of production in Pakistan isalready one of the highest in the region and these hikes will make Pakistani products lose their competitiveness in export markets. They say instead of increasing petroleum prices, the government should decrease the petroleum levy. Meeting export targets would be difficult if input prices are raised.
Exporters warn that frequent increase in power and petroleum prices will accelerate the capital flight from the country and discourage local and foreign investment. Therefore, in the larger national interest, they demand the government should take back this decision to save the economy from further damage.
Pakistan textile units are as it is suffering a serious energy shortage. Many industrial units have closed operations. Mill owners have urged the government to explore renewable energy resources and overcome the energy crisis in the country.
A Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) worth Taka 1.0 billion ($12.9 million)in loan and technical support from JICA was signed recently to build a safe working environment in the vulnerable readymade garment (RMG) and knitwear factories of Bangladesh.Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA), Ministry of Housing and Public Works, Bangladesh Bank (BB), Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) jointly signed the MoU.
Under the MoU, each vulnerable factory will get up to Taka 100 million ($1.29 million) based on its safety assessment reports, officials said.Japanese experts will provide the building assessment support under ‘RMG Sector Safe Working Environment Programme’ initiated in the MoU following the Rana Plaza disaster.
Two of JICA's on-going projects will contribute to this new initiative in two different aspects:‘Financial Sector Project for the Development of SMEs (FSPDSME)’ with the BB and ‘Capacity Development on Natural Disaster Resistant Techniques of Construction and Retrofitting for Public Buildings (CNCRP)’ with the Public Works Department.
The central bank will provide concessional financing such as maximum 10 per cent interest rate and up to 15 years repayment period with two year grace period to the garment factories through the existing FSPDSME procedure, JICA officials said.
www.jica.go.jp
Retailers are betting on Bangladesh’s garment industry more than that of any other country for the coming years show recent studies. Despite the recent deadly factory accidents that have put their reputations at risk.According to a new study by McKinsey & Co, Wall Street Journal, Bangladesh’s $20billion garment business came out ahead of smaller rivalsVietnam and Cambodia in the ranking of countries with the highest potential for future sourcing.
Research showed that production capacity and price appeared to trump safety and labour issues when it came to choosing where to source clothes. Bangladesh has suffered more industrial disasters than any other garment-producing country but its low minimum wage and high number of garment factories has made it a magnet for global retailers, according to the report.
Retailers including H&M, Wal-Mart, Gap and Zara parent Inditex SA are grappling with how the public perceives their role in Bangladesh. Labour unions have pointed fingers at retailers for turning a blind eye to safety violations in factories. The companies have formed safety pacts aimed at improving working conditions which also help improve their image.
A 12-member Alliance delegation headed by its president Jeffrey Krillaare in Dhaka to work out the detailed framework of the safety program including development of a common safety standard.The delegation of the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety reiterated its commitment to completing the proposed inspection of Bangladesh ready-made garment (RMG) factories within the stipulated timeframe.The coalition of North American apparel companies and retailers, industry associations and NGOs was established inJuly to improve workers' safety in Bangladeshi garment factories."The Alliance members informed that they would inspect about 500 garment factories by July 2014," laboursecretaryMikailShipar told the media. He said the Alliance team had also reiterated their assurance that they would carry out their inspection under the national common standards that would be set according to the laws of the land.
The Alliance members have committed more than $45 million to administer the programs and to support the specific ones in the initiative, with some companies offering an additional combined total of over $100 million in loans and access to capital to assist factory owners they work with in Bangladesh targeting factory safety improvement.
Cashmere World, a vertically integrated business platform for the international cashmere trade, will take place from September, 25-26 in Hong Kong. It is a high-quality, annual meeting place for business, a catalyst for fashion trends and technology innovation, as well as a venue for the promotion of the unique qualities of cashmere.
The leading international cashmere trade fair was renamed to Cashmere World in 2010, as a result of a new partnership between CFNA and the professional fair organizer UBM, which operates 110 international events annually.
The event fosters international collaboration of cashmere professionals spanning the various sectors of this specialized industry, from raw materials to finished products, including yarns, fabrics, garments, knitted sweaters, fashion accessories, lifestyle accessories, components and accessories, processing chemicals and dyes and machinery.
The past three events in 2007, 2008 and 2010 attracted some 200 exhibitors from major cashmere supplying countries, including Afghanistan, China, India, Mongolia, Nepal, Pakistan, Switzerland and the UK, displaying the full spectrum of products and services from along the entire cashmere supply chain. About 12,000 visitors from around the world including France, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, the UK and the US, attended the event.
Apparel exports from Bangladesh to the US recorded a 9 per cent growth in the first seven months of the current calendar year compared to that of the same period of 2012.Bangladesh exported 1.21 billion sq. mtr.apparel products during the first seven months of 2013 to the US market against 1.09 billion sq. mtr.during the corresponding period in 2012.
US imports from Bangladesh totaled $4.9 billion in 2012, an increase of 0.8 per cent from that in 2011 and up by 130 per cent from 2002. The five largest categories of US imports from Bangladesh in 2012 were woven apparel ($3.3 billion), knit apparel ($1 billion), miscellaneous textile products ($ 178 million), headgear ($115 million) and others ($86 million).
Bangladesh is trying hard to bring reforms in its ready-made garment sector. It aims to be one of the best apparel sourcing places in the world and to be the most competitive in the world in terms of both price and quality.
Ultimately it depends on global retailers continuing to have their confidence in Bangladeshi suppliers. And that faith doesn’t seem to have been shaken in spite of the recent tragedies in Bangladeshi apparel factories.
IlyasMehmood of Dawood Exports was elected unopposed as the Chairman of the Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA). Adil Tahir of Adil Tahir Textiles was elected as vice chairman for 2013-14. Earlier, 12 members were elected to the executive committee of PTEA for the next two years.The new PTEA chief is a seasoned industrialist and heads a group of ultra-modern textile mills. He is serving on the boards of many charitable, health and educational institutions. He plans to tackle problems facing the textile industry like the high utilities cost, the trade deficit, additional levies as well as the law-and-order situation.
The Pakistan Textile Exporters Association was established in 1985. Several of its members have won export merit trophy awards. It handles issues like authentication of applications for drawback claims to exporters, sales tax refund problems and dissemination of textile-related information to members. It proposes suggestions to the government for promotion of exports. It issues certificates of origin of textile items to its members.
A major activity of PTEA is facilitating its members by obtaining favorable market environment in buyer countries by fighting against tariff and non-tariff barriers on textile imports from Pakistan.
www.ptea.org.pk/
In recent months, Myanmar Investment Commission (MIC) has given approval to several foreign businesses to invest in the country’s garment manufacturing sector.Sources reveal two companies, one from the UK and another from Hong Kong, have been given permission to bring in 100 per cent foreign investment for setting up their own business of cutting, making and packing (CMP) apparel in the country recently.
China’s Jiangsu-based Solamoda Garments Group and Hong Kong-based AMG Factory are also among the companies that have got a green signal for investing in Myanmar. In addition, Thailand-based North Star Manufacturing would be setting up a joint venture CMP garment unit with a local partner in Hlaing Tharyar Industrial Zone, also in Yangon.
Singapore-based power companies, UPP Holdings and UPP Greentech, were given approval for producing and selling electricity as wholly-owned businesses at Ywama power station in Yangon Region. Last month, MIC had granted permission to China-based SDI Manufacturing to invest in garment business in Ngwe Pinlel Industrial Zone in Yangon.
The total amount of foreign investment in Myanmar reached over $43 billion at the end of August, with China being the largest investor followed by Thailand and Hong Kong.
Clothing retailers that sold garments made at the collapsed Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh failed to reach an agreement on compensation after talks, with Primark, saying it will pay more short-term aid.Primark, a unit of Associated British Foods Plc (ABF), said it will pay salaries to all the factory’s workers and their families for three months, declining to disclose the amount. This follows earlier payments and food aid of about $1 million to victims and their families. The retailer has registered the details of 3,333 workers as part of the program. “The company remains concerned about the length of time it is taking to agree on a framework for long-term compensation,” Primark said in a statement recently.
Of the 29 brands that were invited to the recently held meeting in Geneva, only nine attended, the IndustriALL Global Union said in a statement. “Consumers will be shocked that almost half year has passed since the Rana Plaza disaster, with only one brand so far providing any compensation,” Monika Kemperle, Assistant General Secretary of IndustriALL, said in a statement. “I respect those brands that came to these meetings. But I cannot understand brands that are not around the table.”
One of the absentees, Benetton Group SpA, said the meeting wouldn’t provide a framework to address compensation.Benetton, which joined a safety initiative called Bangladesh Fire & Building Safety Accord earlier this year, said it participated in discussions over the last two months that were aimed at setting forth a multi-stakeholder framework to address compensation.“The meeting wouldn’t provide such a structure mainly due to lack of clarity around the objectives as well as the nearly complete the lack of involvement allowed to several key stakeholders,” Benetton Chief Executive Officer BiagioChiarolanza said in a statement.
Bangladesh's garment industry has been hit by a dispute between factory owners and workers over minimum wages.Labor groups are demanding a big increase to offset the impact of high inflation rate that has often climbed above 10 per cent in the country. Factory owners say a higher minimum wage could hobble the industry as costs of other inputs are also rising, in addition to which demand from many Western markets is weak.
In June, Bangladesh's Ministry of Labor and Employment formed a committee with factory owners, workers and government representatives to review wages in the garment sector. The committee is supposed to report back with a negotiated solution by December.
Bangladesh's garment industry exported more than $20 billion of clothes in the fiscal year ended June 30 and employs roughly four million workers. About 80 per cent of the people in the industry are women and most of them are from poor, rural areas.
Bangladesh’s readymade garment sector is a ready market for textile goods, so investors' interest in the textile industry is increasing.Local and foreign entrepreneurs have been coming forward with fresh investment or reinvestment in the textile sector. A total of 1,457 fresh investment proposals were registered from local investors in fiscal year 2012-13. Since the readymade garment sector is growing significantly, demand for backward linkage accessories, including fabrics and textile items, is also rising.
Most textile units in the country are going to double their production capacity to meet the growing demand for fabric and yarn at home and abroad. Due to fresh investments, and growing demand for textile items, cotton consumption in Bangladesh will increase by seven per cent this fiscal year.
The textile sector is getting popularity among local and foreign investors thanks to export-oriented industries enjoying different types of incentives like tax holiday, warehouse facility and others.
The United Nations is monitoring garment factories in Cambodia, particularly worker’s rights and safety standards. Accidents have occurred in Cambodia recently, including two at factories in May, one of which left two people dead.The program is known as ‘Better Factories Cambodia’. It inspects manufacturing facilities for problems such as child labor and unsafe conditions and offers training for factories to upgrade.
Better Factories plans to release information on a new website about the performance of all factories it has inspected at least twice regarding 21 issues, such as wages, worker rights, fire safety and treatment of unions. But some people in Cambodia have opposed the program, saying it could wind up exposing factory owners to public ridicule.
Currently, Better Factories Cambodia submits confidential reports to factories, whose business partners have the option to buy them. It also publishes public summaries that don't name plants. Under the new program, factories that have had three or more Better Factories inspections and still fall two standard deviations below the mean for compliance will be subject to an even higher level of disclosure.
The Roseville-based Industrial Fabrics Association International (IFAI) will bring the IFAI Specialty Fabrics Expo 2013 to the Orange County Convention Center (OCCC) in Orlando, Fla, from October 23 to 25. The expo, said to be the largest specialty fabrics event in America and held in conjunction with IFAI's Advanced Textiles Conference & Trade Show, will feature more than 400 exhibits covering more than 100,000 sq. ft. of exhibition space at the OCCC, and will collocate with the 2013 SGIA Expo.Special events include the Industrial Fabrics Foundation (IFF) golf tournament and a sunset gator tour on and the IFAI annual meeting. Winners of the IFAI International Achievement Awards (IAA) competition will be presented during a special event held prior to the IFAI annual meeting. IFAI received 236 entries from 96 companies in 13 countries for the IAA competition, which recognizes design excellence within the specialty fabrics market.
The ShowStoppers awards competition will return after its debut at the 2012 Expo. The competition is open to all Specialty Fabrics Expo and Advanced Textiles Conference & Trade Show exhibitors and recognizes product innovation in six categories: fabrics, fibers and films; chemicals, coatings and compounds; hardware, findings and accessories; equipment and tools; services to manufacturers; and end products. Entries will be on view in a special ShowStoppers display booth on the show floor. The award winners will be selected by expo attendees and announced on October 24.
Other show floor highlights include a fabric sourcing centre offering samples of exhibitor materials organized into application types; aerospace display featuring specialty fabrics used in air and space applications; and a welding workshop.
The 2013 SGIA Expo, organized by the Specialty Graphic Imaging Association (SGIA), Fairfax, Va. will present the full spectrum of specialty printing and imaging technologies and applications in more than 219,000 sq. ft. of floor space at the OCCC. Organizers report the SGIA Expo and IFAI Specialty Fabrics Expo will be complementary, especially for those involved with printing graphics on flexible materials.
"People will be talking about the IFAI Specialty Fabrics Expo and Advanced Textiles Conference & Trade Show in Orlando for years to come," said IFAI President Mary Hennessy. "On the heels of our Centennial show in Boston, we are set for another record-breaking year. Exhibit sales and attendee pre-registration numbers are soaring, as people are buzzing about the possibilities of the two dynamic shows together."
As a part of the Expo's education program, IFAI will present three business power programs with industry-specific roundtables‘Survive and Thrive Strategies,’‘Winning Sales and Services Strategies’ and ‘Work Smart Strategies’. Bonus programs will be offered each afternoon, including "Growing into Graphics — When to Make the Leap to Buy Equipment"; "Advanced Asset Protection, Business Succession & Exit Planning Strategies"; and "Finding, Training and Retaining a Skilled Workforce to Insure Competitiveness."
www.ifai.com
India and Sri Lanka have signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) on combining their strengths – Sri Lanka’s garment producing infrastructure and India’s quality fabric output. The aim is to jointly compete for China’s textile market as that country’s textile industry is gradually moving from production to consumption.The MoU comes after last year’s agreement allowing Sri Lanka to export up to eight million pieces of apparel to India with zero duties. The MoU will assist in effective cooperation between the Indian and Sri Lankan textile industries. It will expand business and co-operation in the development of SME in the handloom, power loom and textile sectors. The MoU will remain in force for five years and may be renewed.
The Chinese textile sector represents 40 per cent of Sri Lanka’s annual industrial output. Textile and garment exports are worth roughly US$248 million annually, showing that the country is still largely agricultural in nature, despite its modern image.
Labor costs, raw material costs and financing costs of China’s textiles and garment companies are rapidly increasing, and the Chinese market shows a great potential for foreign imports.
Global apparel and textile production has continued its year-on-year growth into the second quarter, with developing and emerging economies leading the way.While the latest figures support forecasts for a modest rise in total world manufacturing growth in 2013, apparel and textile output in the quarter is lower than it was in the first three months of the year. In the latest of its regular reports, the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) forecasts that global manufacturing output will grow by 2.7 per cent in 2013 as recovery begins in Europe and higher demand is seen across industrialized nations.
Textiles production rose 4.8 per cent in the second quarter compared with the same period last year, owing to a 6.3 per cent rise in developing countries, partly offset by a 1.4 per cent decline in the industrialized nations. But output was 1.5 per cent lower than in the first quarter of this year, with a decline of 2.1 per cent in developing countries and flat production in industrialized ones.
Apparel and fur output rose 3.7 per cent year-on-year, with an 8.9 per cent rise in developing countries partially offset by a decline of 7.4 per cent in the industrialized nations."Developing and emerging economies performed well in the production of basic consumer goods," UNIDO said, adding that the production of wearing apparel rose in India, Indonesia, South Africa and Turkey.
The 24th edition of BATEXPO (BangladeshApparel and Textile Exposition), is set to be held from October 10 to 12, 2013. It is Bangladesh’s biggest apparel trade show and local exporters are expecting $90 million worth spot orders and a large number of global buyers. The international quality and competitive prices of products are expected to attract new buyers from Japan, South Africa, Mexico, Argentina, Brazil and Russia to the annual exposition. In all there will be buyers from 60 countries including traditional and new markets.
The country's readymade garment are now going in for environment-friendly green manufacturing plants and they are investing in more sophisticated production technologies which will boost exports in the coming days. BATEXPO hopes to emerge as an icon in the global fashion retailing industry
BATEXPO is organized annually by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) .The exposition provides a platform for Bangladeshi clothing manufacturers and exporters. BGMEA has been continuously striving for the last three decades to promote the readymade garment industry of Bangladesh.
www.bgmea.com.bd/batexpo/
The export of handicraft products surged by 6 percent in the last fiscal year, compared to the previous year. A significant increase in the export of pashmina products, metal crafts, glass and leather products have helped in increasing the export earnings from the sector, said the Federation of Handicrafts Associations of Nepal (FHAN).The FHAN’s statistics show that Nepal exported handicrafts items worth Rs 4.36 billion in 2012-13, compared to Rs 4.11 billion in 2011-12. The export of handmade textile products increased by four percent to Rs 2 billion, while the export of non-textile handicrafts products increased by eight percent. Hem Ratna Shakya, President, FHAN attributed the publicity of handicrafts products to trade fair for the increase. The branding of ‘Chyangra’ Pashmina, a collective trademark, and the rising price of the US dollar helped improve export earning from the sector. “Encouraged by the good impact of Chyangra Pashmina, that has helped maintain the quality standard, we have planned on issuing similar trademarks for the entire handicrafts products of the country,” he added.
Shakya attributed the export growth to the increasing demand for metal crafts from China. “Increasing participation of the local traders in the China-based trade fair has also helped the publicity of the product in recent days.”With importing handicrafts worth Rs 1.27 billion, the US became the largest importing nation in the segment. Nepal exported handmade products worth Rs 1.20 billion in 2011-12 in the US. Germany and Japan were the second and the third largest buyers of the Nepali goods.
Cambodian garment workers stitching clothes that supply to UK high street are malnourished to the point of collapse.A recent study reveals a third of Cambodian garment workers producing clothes sold in the UK by global brands, including clothing giant H&M, are not getting enough food. Some 25 per cent are so underweight they would be classified as anorexic were they diagnosed in the UK.The findings of the report by worker rights group LabourBehind the Label follow a spate of mass fainting over recent years, when groups of up to 300 at a time have passed out.Researchers attributed the incidents to the serious malnourishment of the industry’s 400,000-plus mostly female employees who work for a monthly minimum wage of around $80 (£50) – too little to fund an adequate diet, the researchers say.
According to the report, Shop ‘Til They Drop, employees consumed around half the calories needed for garment factory work, while protein intake fell well below half the basic human need. The recommended 3,000-calorie diet alone would cost some $75 a month, leaving just $5 for all other costs.Although some factories offer allowances for food, these are often spent on other essential expenses, which for many include sending a share home to family members, the report states.
Apparel and textile manufacturing is set to restart at North Korea’s Gaeseong Industrial Complex (GIC), also called Kaesong Industrial Park. Located just north of the South Korean border, the process of starting GIC will begin nearly five months after work was halted as tensions escalated between the two Koreas following a nuclear test done by North Korea in February this year.
The second meeting of the South-North Joint Committee for GIC, held recently decided that the GIC companies will begin testing machines, and resume operations thereafter, according to a press release by the South Korean Ministry of Unification.
Through the meeting, both the countries established a systematic framework, which will help the GIC become a stable industrial complex that has international competitive power. The GIC has 123 South Korean factories that together employ over 5,000 North Koreans. About 60 percent of these factories are engaged in manufacturing of fabric and apparel.
In order to compensate for the GIC companies’ financial losses, South and North Korea agreed to give the tax exemption benefit for the year 2013. The deadline for tax payment by the GIC companies for the year 2012 is now extended to the end of 2013.
Launched in 2003, GIC is largely financed by South Korea. In 2012, the complex produced $470 million worth of products, and was the biggest contributor to inter-Korean trade. The industrial zone is the last functioning inter-Korean joint project and is a major source of revenue for North Korea.
China has a plan to invest in cotton ginneries in Tanzania. The investment plan includes construction of cotton processing factories in the Shinyanga region with the view to adding value to improve farmers’ earnings and creating an estimated 30,000 new jobs.Seven cotton factories will be built that will include cotton processingfactories, textile factories, and factories for packaging materials. Chinese investors would also help increase productivity in the region by introducing new technology as well as seeds from China.
Currently farmers in the region are producing 400 kg of cotton
per hectare, whereas in China farmers produce four tons of cotton by
cultivating on the same size of land. Chinese industries require new markets for their products and Africa is a potentially enormous outlet. Chinese clothing, jewelry, electronics, even matches, tea bags have flooded cities, towns and villages in Africa. African consumers like Chinese products because they are affordable. China on its part sees Africa as a strong source of raw material supplies.
Nearly 7 out of 10 garments exported from Paraguay are destined for Brazil, and the apparel sector of Paraguay has been reactivated due to growth in exports to the Latin American country.Argentina used to be the traditional buyer of Paraguayan apparels. But there have been obstacles faced in the Argentine market because of which entrepreneurs are trying to explore other markets.
Several Brazilian textile companies are coming to Paraguay because of the opportunities being offered by the country, mainly in terms of the Fiscal Incentives Act, the Maquila Law, and the law that provides legal guarantee for domestic and foreign investments. Around 20,000 people in the country are directly dependent on the apparel sector, of which most are women or heads of the household.
Paraguay's earliest manufacturing industries processed hides and leather from its abundant cattle and tannin from quebracho trees. Small-scale manufacturing, especially textiles, flourished under the Francia dictatorship, when the nation's borders were closed.
Textiles, clothing, leather, and shoes comprise the third largest manufacturing subsector of the country. These industries are traditional, grounded in the nation's abundance of inputs like cotton fibers, cattle hides, and tannin extract.
Bangladesh wants India to remove all tariff and non-tariff barriers on Bangladeshi garments.Although India granted duty-free access for Bangladeshi readymade garments in September 2011, the volume of trade has not risen to expected levels. Bangladesh feels this is due to various barriers. The main complaint is that despite granting duty free access to Bangladeshi garments, India levies a countervailing duty of 8 per cent on the assessable products and a special additional duty of 4 per cent. A further point is that India does not accept test certificates issued by laboratories in Bangladesh for garments and other products.
In the meantime the neighboring country has urged Indian entrepreneurs to set up their units in Bangladesh and take advantage of the duty-free and quota-free access it has to advanced countries. India and Bangladesh's trade basket of goods and services includes cotton, automobiles, iron and steel, mineral fuels, paper yarn, copper and related products, and organic and inorganic chemicals. Bangladesh is an important trading partner for India. Bangladesh and India have signed the doubletaxation avoidance agreement as well as one on bilateral investment promotion and protection.
Around 20,000 jobs have been created in Myanmar during the current fiscal year due to the increase in foreign direct investment (FDI), reveals government data.During the first five months of the fiscal year 2013-14, the FDI reached $1.8 billion, and was mostly focused in the garment manufacturing sector, reports sources.
Aung Naing Oo, Director General of the Directorate of Investment and Company Administration (DICA), said the majority of investments came from East Asian countries such as South Korea, Japan and China. He said that Japanese automaker Nissan Motor Company was the most notable major investor in recent months.
“Every single garment factory that opens creates an additional 1,000 jobs,” he said. “This fiscal year, we have so far approved 20 garment factories, so can estimate that around 20,000 new jobs have been created.”Naing Oo added that a quicker process now exists for setting up a garment factory; one can now become operational within six months after acquiring the relevant permits.Oo said this fiscal year DICA is expecting around US$ 3 billion of FDI in the country.
Turkey’s textiles exports, excluding apparels, has seen an increase if 6.6 per cent in the first six months of 2013 compared to the corresponding period of last year.Turkish firms exported $4.164 billion worth of textiles to other countries during January to June 2013, accounting for 5.6 per cent of total Turkish exports.
Segment-wise, woven fabric exports earned $1.436 billion, followed by knitted fabric which fetched $845.6 million. Yarn exports from Turkey were worth $838.5 million, while fiber exports amounted to $307.8 million from January to June 2013. Exports to the EU accounted for 45 per cent of all Turkish textile exports during the six-month period.
Turkish textile exports rose to $7.75 billion in 2012 from $7.7 billion in 2011. Turkey exported textiles worth $542.2 million to Russia, $418.2 million to Italy, and $213.8 million to Germany during the first quarter of 2013.
Garments factory owners have urged their association to increase minimum wage for workers by not more than 20 per cent and set the hike commensurate with the rate of inflation.This demand was raised at an extraordinary general meeting (EGM) of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) recently. The meeting discussed fixing of minimum wages, preparation of biometric database of workers, amended labour law 2013 and the role of owners in implementing the steps taken by the clothing buyers’ ‘Accord’ and ‘Alliance.’
Every factory has to make fire and building safety assessments, said BGMEA President Atiqul Islam, urging owners to remove the tin-sheds from the rooftops to create 25 per cent open space for the compliance of fire safety.He also said the BGMEA has heard the owners’ voice and would take the decision on minimum wage considering their demands.
The country has witnessed 19.53 per cent inflation from 2010 and the trade body would like to offer 19-20 per cent wage hike as inflationary adjustment, said Arshad Jamal Dipu, a member of the wage board representing the owners. The wage should be based on the country’s socio economic status, he added. Production cost has increased due to compliance of fire and building safety while devaluation of Indian Rupee increased competitiveness in the global market.
The minimum wage should be fixed at a level which is affordable to all kinds of owners and the ultimate impact of the wage in the sector should be considered, saidAbdus Salam Murshedy, former BGMEA president.DipuMunshi, a former president of the apex apparel body, said minimum wage should not be beyond the limit of owner.A minimum wage proposal of Tk8,114 has already been placed from the part of workers before the wage board.
Human rights expert and attorney Jeffrey Krilla has been named President of the coalition representing 20 North American apparel companies, retailers and brands.Krilla brings extensive foreign policy experience to the position, having spent most of his career working around the globe on trade, development and human rights issues.While a lawyer at Dentons US LLP, Krilla co-chaired the firm's Africa Committee and was the member of its Public Policy and Regulation practice. Prior, Krilla served as Deputy Assistant Secretary of State for Democracy, Human Rights and Labor.
"JeffreyKrilla's experience championing the rights of workers around the globe makes him the ideal person to lead the Alliance as it seeks to rapidly improve the lives of workers in Bangladesh," said Ellen O'Kane Tauscher, Alliance Chair. "His extensive foreign policy experience and his deep understanding of this issue will guide the organization as it strives toward its goal of inspecting all Alliance factories by next summer."
Krilla says he is excited to join an organization that is already making real progress in improving the lives of Bangladesh garment workers. "Just nine weeks after being formed, the Alliance has already achieved some significant milestones and has been a part of fruitful discussions with key stakeholders, including the ILO and the Accord, on developing common safety standards that will transform conditions of our workers," he avers.
The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, a coalition representing 20 North American apparel companies, retailers and brands has unveiled its draft standards, focusing on key areas of concern including fire and building safety for the apparel industry.The Alliance published the draft fire and building safety standards as a part of a collective effort by the stakeholders to ensure a common set of safety measures for Bangladesh's ready-made garment (RMG) sector.These standards have been developed by a small group of professionals who have personal experience in the assessment of over 100 Bangladeshi factories for fire safety and structural integrity, the draft said adding this group has solicited input from a number of sources, including other Alliance retailers, who have been dealing with the same concerns as well as some professionals in the Bangladeshi factory design and management community.
The draft Alliance Standards were created in conjunction with fire and building safety experts, and developed with a commitment to align with the Bangladesh National Building Code, and is in support of the National Tripartite Plan of Action. "These draft standards are exclusively focused on the technical aspects of fire and building safety. The Alliance continues to advance its mission to improve safety for Bangladesh garment workers through separate, but closely related, work streams focused on worker empowerment and worker training," Rosanna Maietta of the Alliance told media.
The Alliance said in the spirit of transparency and collaboration, "We shared these standards with the ILO, the Accord, BGMEA, BUET and the Bangladeshi Ministry of Labour and Employment in advance of the meeting held on September 7."
In the past four years, the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has registered an increase of $3.5 billion in textile exports,this, despite the energy crisis and high interest rates.The group has set a target of another $13 billion in the next five years that will generate 10 million jobs in the country.
An unprecedented energy crisis and highly uncompetitive interest rates have been hampering the growth of Pakistan’s textile industry since 2007.
Now the group has pursued the government for a reduction of 2.5 per cent in interest rates to compete with regional players. APTMA plans to hold international roadshows in the EU and the US and this exercise will start from a show in Lahore in the month of December. Efforts are also underway to bring Chinese investment into the textile sector of Pakistan.Pakistan is the fourth largest cotton producer in the world and the third largest cotton consumer.
APTMA is a trade organization for the Pakistani yarn, spinning, weaving and knitting industries. It also plans to become a member of the International Cotton Association so that it can avail of arbitration facilities at the world level for the cotton trade.
aptma.org.pk/
The United States Agency for International Development (USAID) is promoting the knitted garment sector in Pakistan by supporting small and medium enterprises (SMEs) in making exports to the international markets.Recently two among the group of 20 SMEs have made exports worth $3.3 million to the US markets.The USAID through its firm’s project is supporting these SMEs to build up their production base and cater to the demands of mid-tier international buyers in the knitted garment sector.
The 20 selected SME's have received accredited certifications, such as Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) and Customs Trade Partnership against Terrorism (C-TPAT). "These certifications have breathed a new life into our businesses and have provided us with direct and easy access to 700 member companies of the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) with a safe and secure supply chain," said a SME beneficiary.
In addition, the selected SMEs are being supported with training and workforce development, machinery upgrades, enterprise resource planning system and creation of market linkages.These efforts are expected to increase sales revenues by an additional million dollars by December 2014.
Sharing his experience of working with USAID, one of the SME's said, "Previously, we used to earn less profit as we had to export our products through intermediaries since we did not have international certifications. Thanks to USAID for supporting us in receiving international certifications, we are now sending our garments directly to the international markets."
The PCI Fibers Conference 2013 will be held November 7 and 8th, 2013 in Hong Kong.This is a marketing conference covering textile fibers and certain raw materials. It will feature speakers on a number of fibers including acrylics, carbon, nylon, polyester, polypropylene, spandex and viscose as well as the prime feedstock and intermediates for these. Wool and cotton will also be covered.
China's manmade fiber capacity has been growing 15 per cent per annum until recently, while global demand over the period 2000-10 grew on an average at just under 5 per cent. In this period, while Chinese capacity has been growing rapidly, in the rest of the world, fiber types, such as acrylic staple, nylon textile filament and nylon staple, saw a decline in the range of 5 to 10 per cent a year.
For the period 2010-15, capacity growth in China is expected to ease back to 10 per cent a year, while elsewhere there are signs of some expansion, at the rate of just over 3 per cent, led in particular by India. Expansion in China is a little slower now, but it will continue to influence operations in other markets. China will continue to set the pace in nylon textile filament, in polyester textile filament and in polyester industrial filament, but in other fibers there is expected to be a more even global expansion.
In partnership with The Woolmark Company, Saks Fifth Avenue has announcedDormeuil and FratelliTallia di Delfino, the winners of the second annual fabric No. 1 award, a prestigious prize that commends the season's finest fabrics for Made-to-Measure suits and sport coats from the world's premiere textile mills.The two winning mills --Dormeuil, selected for suiting, and FratelliTallia di Delfino, selected for sports coats -- will be honoured at a special award ceremony on September, 19 at Saks Fifth Avenue's New York flagship store to kick off the semi-annual Men's Luxury event (which focuses on Saks' Made-to-Measure assortment).
Dormeuil, woven in England, this winning fabric's pure long filament Super 150's worsted wool has the enigmatic name: 15 point 8. The name refers to the very fine diameter of the fibre used (a mere 15.8 microns) to create a fine, soft fabric perfectly suited for wearing every season of the year. The extraordinarily soft handle is further enhanced by the special 2/120 compact yarn used in both the warp and the weft. The compact yarn is woven in an extremely tight British setting, which gives unequalled quality, regularity and performance for such a fine fabric. Dormeuil's exclusive finishing process is applied to create a lustrous soft handle. This fabric is 100 per cent wool and available exclusively at Saks Fifth Ave as a limited-edition, individually numbered, two-piece Made-to-Measure suit.
FratelliTallia di Delfino, Woven in Italy, this winning fabric is the perfect blend of fine pure new wool and cashmere of the finest grade. Carefully selected raw materials, an old fashioned yet contemporary woolen spun production cycle along with meticulous weaving grant thiscloth has deep, rich colours and an extremely soft, lofty handle. This beautiful fabric is 90 per cent wool and 10 per cent cashmere, which is the result of FratelliTallia di Delfino's continuous effort to blend its centenary tradition with today's state-of-the-art technical and stylistic innovation.
Individually tailored to its owner by Saks Fifth Avenue's master craftsmen, each Fabric No. 1 piece will be identifiable by a custom number and label, marking it as a one-of-a-kind garment. The Fabric No. 1 program will be supported by window displays in Saks' flagship store, a spread in Saks' Men's Fall Fashion Catalog, advertising in the Wall Street Journal and promotion on Saks' social media platforms. Fabric No. 1 Made-to-Measure orders will be available in limited quantities at Saks Fifth Avenue locations in New York, Chevy Chase, Chicago and Phoenix.
The European Commission, which is in the final stages of reviewing the current EU organic legislation, has decided that the legal basis of its organic regulation should not be extended to cover textiles.As a part of its latest review of the sale, farming and marketing of organic consumer products in the EU, the European Commission's Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development has decided against including textiles as part of its regulations.
The EU looked at four key areas: simplifying the legal framework, whilst ensuring standards are not watered down; co-existence of GM crops with organic farming; better control systems and trade arrangements for organic products; and impact of labeling rules.
A statement from the Global Organic Textiles Standard pointed out that "Organic textiles are not currently included in the EU organic regulation, which cover organic food and farming in Europe. This means that the use of the term 'organic' is not controlled in the European market, so there are inappropriate and inaccurate claims made resulting in consumer confusion and the risk of greenwash".Despite these concerns, the EU concluded that the legal basis of the organic regulation should not be extended to cover products such as textiles and cosmetics, stating that "organic farming should remain focused on agriculture since it is a crucial instrument to deliver environmental services and boost development, innovation and employment in rural areas."
This leaves a significant gap in the organic legal framework, and GOTS noted that "Organic textiles are an important part of the overall organic market. They provide an opportunity to improve sustainability with a global reach. Making sure that the organic label is based on robust standards and verification will help provide confidence to consumers and build the organic textiles market."
The GOTS Technical Committee has already started to thoroughly evaluate and assess the contributions and will consult further experts as necessary to complete the 2nd Revision Draft. The 2nd Revision Draft will be published on November, 1, 2013 and GOTS Version 4.0 and the related manual are intended to be released in March 2014.
Cotton is expected to continue to lose market share in the ongoing season. Despite the loss of market share, world cotton consumption is rising in absolute terms.It appears that 2013-14 will be the fifth consecutive season in which cotton prices in China will be substantially above polyester prices in China. Falling mill use of cotton in China due to its cotton procurement policy is encouraging a significant shift in mill use to other countries.
World cotton production would be down 3.5 per cent from last season. The US will likely account for most of this decline, because US production will fall by 25 per cent. By contrast, production in China and Uzbekistan is projected to remain unchanged.
World cotton trade is forecast to decline by around a million tons
to less than nine million. This decline is almost entirely accounted for
by reduced imports into China. Shipments from all major exporters are
expected to fall, except from the CFA zone where producers are
increasing production this season, thus also exports, and in response
to higher cotton prices.
Estimates of mill use in India and Pakistan during 2011-12, 2012-13 and 2013-14 have been lowered.
The Turkey Cotton Association (IPUD) has set atarget of producing 13,000 tons of cotton for the 2013 harvest period under the standards of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) which will be launched this year in the country.The BCI aims to transform cotton production worldwide by developing Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity.In order to achieve this goal, the Aydin, Izmir, Bursa, Adana, Gaziantep, Mardin, Sanliurfa and Sirnak regions in the country have planned to cultivate about 8,000 hectares of land, with the help of seven organizations such as the IPUD, the National Cotton Council, Taris Cotton Association, the Sanko Textile and Apparel Exporters Association of Istanbul, Izmir Mercantile Exchange, Textile Employers’ Association of Turkey and Turkey Union of Chambers of Agriculture, who would work with around 310 cotton producers in the country.
Earlier in January, 2013, the BCI held a one-day multi-stakeholder workshop in Istanbul where 55 participants representing various cotton producers’ organizations, Turkish Government agencies, non-governmental organizations and intergovernmental agencies met and discussed implementing the ‘Better Cotton’ initiative in the country.
The workshop participants agreed that Turkish cotton quality is recognized for the efficiency of its production, but there are number of material sustainability challenges which BCI must focus on, which include water use and negative impacts of irrigated cotton; implementing threshold spraying (of pesticides); and, in southeastern provinces in particular, decent work for hired (seasonal) labor on cotton farms.
The participants also suggested that BCI should collaborate with a range of stakeholders, including public, private and third-sector (NGO) organizations, for the cultivation of Better Cotton in Turkey.
Preview in Seoul 2013held from September 4 to 6, 2013 at Hall B, in Samsung-dong, Seoul, Korea showcased new textile materials for the future growth engines, creating opportunities for discussions between business partners.
The exhibition focused on introducing various and differentiated functional and eco-friendly textiles, as well as patented materials. Many submitted products satisfied functionality, eco-friendliness, and reinforced fashion characteristics. Nearly 69 famous textile companies from 10 nations to enter in Korean market participated at the event.
Functional materials including moisture proof laminating materials, heat insulation, high-density thin fabrics, and UV blocking materials were augmented in this exhibition. The competitiveness of international participants was reinforced, too. Austria's Lenzingknown for its eco-friendly new materials, participated in the exhibition for three consecutive years. Everest, a Taiwanese company specialized for overall functional textiles, and Toyobo Japan, a leader in the development of new synthetic composite material, participated for the first time.
Nearly 41 Chinese textile companies including Jiangsu Hengli Chemical Fiber participated with an eye on the Korean market. Various companies from Turkey, Singapore, Taiwan, Indonesia, Uzbekistan, Pakistan, etc. showedcased their embroidery fabrics to outdoor functional materials, and demonstrated their price competitiveness as well the quality and technology.
The ‘Trend Forum Hall’ showing participants' various materials and the newest trends suggested buyers the possibilities in using various materials, and reinforced its index and visual functions through composing patent materials, collaboration (material company + designer), fashion products, and Small Order Zone. Small Order Zone was established for small quantity orders with low pricing to provide buyers opportunities to use various products.
In a symposium inviting fashion professional groups, PFIN offered 2014's SS Creative Trend Seminar to suggest the overall design directions for colours and fabrics in 2014's SS, while Fashion in Trend opened the five strategies to lead the outdoor fashion market with the agenda, the Challenge of Outdoor Fashion Companies.
Apart from luxury brands from the US and Europe, giant fashion groups, general import and export companies, garment makers and other important buyers from Japan, China, Taiwan and Hong Kong visited the exhibition. Studio Paglaiai visited PIS to import Korean high quality fashion material to the mid to high pricing market in Italy. Kusilas showed a great deal of interest in eco-friendly materials and embroideries.Hengyuan (Group) from China visited the expo to research the quality and the design competitiveness of Korean materials to launch its women's wear brand. Fazeya Group actively discussed with Korean material companies according to the policy to use Korean materials for their renewal plan of 200 or more shops.
About 6,000 Cambodian garment workers will return to work after their company agreed to withdraw a huge dismissal order for employees. After discussions with owners of the Singapore-owned SL Garment Processing Factory, workers will now return to work. But, despite the agreement, workers still have demands, including increased wages, improved working conditions and better health and safety standards.
The union says workers were being intimidated by armed military police who regularly inspect the factory. In July, a report from the International Labor Organisation said conditions for garment factory workers in Cambodia are declining. Inspection of 158 factories revealed that areas where things could be improved are: child labor, fire safety and workers' health.
The death of two factory workers in Cambodia in May raised the pressure to improve the record. The garment industry provides 6,50,000 jobs in Cambodia but safety needs to be improved. Since the country's elections in July, the government is investing more time into issues like workers’ conditions. It has agreed to help set up a committee for increased salaries.
For the quarter ended June 30, 2013, Trident’s yarn segment revenues climbed 18 per cent. Higher realizations consequent to improved contribution from value-added products like mélange yarn enabled topline growth. This was despite a marginal increase in sales volumes. PBIT margins improved from 6.2 per cent to 16.8 per cent driven by cost optimization measures along with improving realizations resultant to enhanced product mix towards value-added products.
In terry towel lower sales volumes moderated topline performance -- partly mitigated by improved realizations on account of higher sale of value-added products. Despite lower sales volumes, profitability was flat given various cost rationalization initiatives combined with a change in the product mix towards value-added products.
Trident, the flagship company of the Trident Group, is a leading manufacturer and exporter of textiles and paper products. The group is broadening its reach and strengthening its partnership with suppliers and customers.
Import of textiles and apparels by the United States has increased by 3.11 per cent year-on-year during the first seven months of 2013.Apparel import was up 3.59 per cent year-on-year while non-apparel was up 1.63 per cent year-on-year.
Vietnam’s textile exports to the US jumped 13.48 per cent year-on-year during the seven-month period whereas US imports from Bangladesh increased 9.06 per cent year-on-year. China continued to be the top supplier of textiles to the US with its exports registering a rise of 1.82 per cent year-on-year.
India and Indonesia were the other countries among the top five textile exporters to the US during the period under review. US imports of textiles from India showed an increase of 4 per cent year-on-year. US textile imports from Indonesia grew 3.57 per cent year-on-year during the same period.
US textile imports from EU-28 countries rose 4.73 per cent year-on-year while imports from NAFTA fell 1.53 per cent year-on-year during January to July 2013.
British fashion retailer AllSaints has opened its first standalone store in Amsterdam, the Netherlands as it looks to expand its presence in the Dutch market...Read More
Across the country, British high street retailers have begun with their seasonal recruitment. Large retailers such as Matalan, Argos and John Lewis will all take on extra temporary staff to help cope with their predicted seasonal push. However, some retailers appear to be on edge of caution with the number of seasonal employees they plan to hire, less than optimistic for this years’ holiday season than the previous year...Read More
There are many rumours circulating from Paris Fashion Week regarding Marc Jacobs leaving Louis Vuitton and who his possible successor could be. Last week it emerged that the designer, who has helmed the label since 1997, would not be renewing his 10-year contract when it expires next month...Read More
The FTSE 100 edged lower in the London Stock Exchange, dropping 2.21 points to 6,460.01, dragging down the small cap exchange AIM as well. Asos lost 21 pence to 5,120 pence, with analysts at Panmure Gordon leaving the e-tailer out of their quarterly top picks...Read More
Chinese down and menswear retailer Bosideng is ready to acquire a British 80-shop fashion chain. In its quest to build a European presence, increase sales outside of China and boost its image at home, the Hong Kong-based company is also in talks with European luxury fashion companies...Road More
The Council of Fashion Designers of America is teaming up with Google on a new shopping platform that will “deepen engagement” between designers and consumers. The new shopping app for ‘Hangouts On Air’ brings together social media and e-commerce and allows consumers to hang out with the designer, for instance Diane von Furstenberg, while shopping a curated selection of products from her fashion line...Read More
The IAF’s 29th World Fashion Convention that took
place in Shanghai this year showed how successful brands are able to bring make export across continents work...Read More
ANALYSIS_ Upscale British fashion brand Jaeger is back on track after cutting losses for fiscal year to 23 of February. The recovery has been led by new chief executive Colin Henry´s 5-year turnaround plan. Henry, appointed last July, is determined to “rebuild the brand and rebuild the business”...Read More
Department store chain John Lewis and value retailer Primark have ranked as the top two retailers that consumers would most like to see open in their preferred shopping location, according to new research commissioned by e-commerce specialist Webloyalty...Read More
It has been confirmed by LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault that designer Marc Jacobs is leaving Louis Vuitton after 16-years to focus on his own label. Following months of speculation, Jacobs presented his final show for the brand this morning that included a celebration of his greatest hits, which was met with a standing ovation...Read More
Sportswear giant Reebok has opened the first FitHub concept store in London’s Covent Garden as it pushes forward with its plan to get people active while reposition the brand as a company to “empower people to get fit for life”...Read More
Greek casual wear Sprider Stores has announced its closure after 35 years in the trade. The company was founded in Athens in 1978 and was listed on the Athens stock exchange in 2004, filed for protection from its creditors under Article 99 of the Bankruptcy Code in January...Read More
After a week of garment worker protests in Bangladesh that turned violent at times, factories are open again and workers back at their work places as of Sunday. This was achieved after factory owners promised to raise the wages of Bangladesh’s more than three million garment workers...Read More
Diesel's founder Renzo Rosso has compared the competition for fashion designers with that of football stars. "Fashion is like soccer, only champions make a difference," said the Italian fashion entrepreneur. Rosso has recently lost the pulse with LVMH over two coveted British designers...Read More
British designer Alice Temperley is expanding her John Lewis ‘Somerset’ line to include lingerie, nightwear, and childrenswear, following the success of becoming the department store’s fastest selling brand. Temperley’s womenswear collection, ‘Somerset by Alice Temperely’, launched in July 2012 and marked the designer’s first high street collection. Named after her home county, the range exudes her signature high-end detail and design at an affordable price point and her debut collection launched with classic pieces such as leopard print knits, military-inspired jackets, and a sheepskin coat...Read More
Apparel Holding Corp., Kellwood's parent company, has taken the first step to take its high-end brand Vince public. According to the apparel group's filing, the initial public offering (IPO) would be worth up to 200 million dollars. As per the company's statement, proceeds from the IPO will be used for expansion and to pay down debt, according to the filing...Read More
The campaign for wool initiative has helped the natural fibre firmly back into the minds of millions of consumers after its launch three years back. Over 600 retailers and brands have now joined the campaign across 16 participating countries with 81 retail participants in Australia this year. The global target as stated in the new Australian Wool Innovation Strategic Plan is to increase the sale of wool units per store by over 1,000 a year by 2015.
With the Prince of Wales as its patron, the ‘Campaign for Wool’ has now become a global phenomenon according to AWI's Global Strategic Advisor and President of the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO), Peter Ackroyd. "Significant seasonal events are taking place across key markets such as the UK, Italy, Germany, USA, Japan, Korea, the Netherlands, Spain and China. Many leading international luxury brands have quickly associated themselves with our patron's strong commitment to sustainable solutions in fashion and the world of interiors at a time when consumers are increasingly seeking assurances about provenance and sustainability."
He says primary processors, spinners and weavers of wool participating in the campaign have seen strong growth in demand for wool products over the past three years as global markets continue to prioritize renewable and sustainable sourcing of raw materials.
AWI via The Woolmark Company is a key supporter of the Campaign for Wool, with AWI chief strategy and marketing officer Rob Langtry says it is a critical campaign which connects the entire wool industry; from woolgrowers to consumers. "The Campaign for Wool focuses its attention on the natural, renewable benefits of the fibre. It is an opportunity for the growers, supply chain and retailers to combine and present consumers with a superior, natural alternative for both their apparel and interiors choices."
The Government of Norway has intensified its efforts to strengthen the rights of those working in the garment and textile industry of Bangladesh. It wants to ensure that the textile industry is a safe workplaces with decent pay and good working conditions for both men and women.
Norway imports garments, textiles and other goods, which create thousands of jobs in developing countries. Norway’s import of garments from Bangladesh has increased over the past 10 years and is expected to rise further. The current Norway-Bangladesh textile and garment trade is estimated at one billion krone annually.
The Norwegian Agency for Development Cooperation (NORAD) has provided up to 14.3 million krone in funding for the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) to actively pursue programs to improve conditions for textile and garment workers in China, Vietnam, India and Bangladesh.
Courses under this initiative have already been developed for manufacturers in China, India and Vietnam, and NORAD is now extending its agreement with ETI to include Bangladesh as well. The objective of the NORAD initiative is to have 700 employers attend courses run by the ETI during the 2013-15 period.
Readymade garment (RMG) manufacturers and factory owners in Bangladesh have failed to submit their proposal on a wage hike to the wage board as promised earlier. The failure has raised fear among labor representatives about a fresh bout of workers' unrest in the industry.
Representatives of the readymade garment factories took two weeks' time from the wage board for submitting their proposal. However, labor leaders fear unrest amongst the workers if the owners take too much time in placing their wage proposals for the country's three million plus apparel workers. They allege that it is a plot to stretch the process beyond Eid.
In June last year, the government formed the new wage board, comprising six members, for enhancement of wages for the country’s garment industry following a series of violent acts over a wage hike. The last wage board was formed in January 2010 and set the minimum wage in July 2010.
Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF) saysexports of textiles and garments by ASEAN member countries to the US and the EU markets declined in 2012.The maximum decline in exports was posted by Philippines, whose textile and apparel exports to the main markets decreased by 17 percent year-on-year, TTF said. Based on a report,TTF mentioned that although there was significant difference in performance of Asean member states, the overall trend showed signs of drop in exports.
Textile and garment exports from Malaysia and Thailand to the main markets fell 12.4 percent year-on-year and 12.2 percent year-on-year, respectively, during the year under review. Textile and clothing exports from Indonesia to these markets also dropped 6.3 percent year-on-year. However, exports of some ASEAN member countries performed well during the year, especially Cambodia and Vietnam, which posted a year-on-year rise of 8.7 percent and 8.5 percent respectively, in their textile and garment exports to the US and the EU in 2012.
TTF said Cambodia’s textile and apparel sales in the EU grew by 32.4 percent year-on-year due to the EU’s decision to relax the rule of origin (RoO) criteria under its Generalised System of Preferences (GSP), but its exports to the US market dropped by 2 percent year-on-year.While Vietnam’s textile and clothing exports to the EU seem to be affected, its sales have grown in several markets, including the US, Japan, China, Russia and South Korea.
The whole process of import as well as audit under DTRE system takes at least 26 weeks in Pakistan while in Bangladesh the entire procedure is completed in just two hours. As a result, Bangladesh textile exports have surged to $26 billion without producing a single bale of cotton while Pakistan has never crossed the figure of $16 billion despite producing its own raw material.
The Procedure of Duty Tax Remission for Exports (DTRE) scheme has been designed in such a manner that just few companies out of thousands of value-added textile sector units in Pakistan were benefiting from the scheme to increase the country’s export volumes.
Exporters are of the view that apparel industry should be allowed to import fabric under the SRO 492 scheme, as the weaving industry of Pakistan is not efficient enough to fulfill the domestic apparel demand for fashion wear. Stressing the need for consistency in export-related policies, they urged the government to simplify the complex nature of several segments of its policy, including DTRE and Sales Tax Refund system.
PRGMEA central chairman SajidSaleemMinhas suggested the country’s garment industry mainly comprises of small and medium scale units, which are better off in producing high-end fashion products, as the order sizes remain small. However, due to the current import policies they fail to utilize their full potential. “If the import of synthetic blends and cotton fabric, which are not being manufactured in Pakistan, is made duty-free the apparel and sportswear exports will double immediately while export from Sailkot will surge manifold,” he added.
PRGMEA former chairman and chief coordinator IjazKhokhar said that small trims that carry no commercial value should also be made duty-free to avoid delays and problems with customs. Exports of the sector could also improve due to expected GSP Plus (Generalized System of Preferences) status from EU as lower import duties will make our products more competitive.
The government of West Bengal has finalized its textile policy, industrial policy, and micro, small and medium enterprises (MSMEs) policy. Under its textile policy, the government will set up Spinfed Holding company by bringing all state-run mills under one umbrella.
The government also proposes to set up a mega powerloom park spread over 100-acres in Belur, and an Indian Institute of Handloom Technology in Nadia. Mamata Banerjee, Chief Minister of the state said the government would set up 200 handloom clusters across the state, with an average of 10 clusters in each district. She added, “The government’s target is to create 10 million new jobs in the textile sector over the next 10 years.”
Banerjee said that setting up industries under the public-private-partnership (PPP) mode is welcome, but government incentives would be based on factors like employment generation and production. Under its industrial policy, the state is targeting creation of 6.6 million jobs over the next five years. The MSME policy envisages special concessions to cooperatives and self-help groups, and setting up of clusters in all districts of the state.
The African Continental Free Trade Area, which took effect in May, is expected to boost economic growth in the continent by cutting tariffs among member states. Lower costs for trade means more trade, which boosts demand, sales and jobs. Demand from a stronger textile industry helps cotton farmers and also helps other businesses expand and develop.
Sub-Saharan Africa’s apparel and footwear market is already worth $31 billion. Sizable growth in the sector is expected over the next decade. The next decade could see the continent become a substantial player in global sourcing. Betting on growth, Kenya revived and equipped its biggest textile factory, Rivatex, in June, hoping to create 9,000 jobs at the facility.
However, the continent’s industries have to improve if they are to grab a share of the growing fashion and textile market. Africa has to have its own industrial capacity to be able to take advantage of a $3.3 trillion market with the African Continental Free Trade Area, so Africa has to industrialize. Industrialization is critical. It is not just about moving raw materials. It is value-added products. Boosting the textile industry is one step toward connecting 1.3 billion people across 54 nations and heating up commerce across the continent.
The fourth straight year of surplus cotton output and the biggest drop in Chinese imports since 2000 are creating record global inventories, signalling higher profits for the makers of Hanes underwear. Hanesbrands, the Winston Salem, NC based maker of Hanes underwear and Playtex bras, said that its cotton costs dropped 49 per cent in the second quarter. The company raised its full-year earnings-per-share forecast from $3.50 to $3.65, from $3.25 to $3.40. Net income at Levi Strauss & Co., the San Francisco-based maker of Levi's jeans and Dockers apparel, more than tripled to $48 million in the second quarter, mainly due to lower cotton costs, along with higher sales and more-profitable products, Chief Financial Officer Harmit Singh said.
China, which uses about a third of the world's cotton, will reduce imports by 46 per cent, or 9.33 million bales, from last year as it focuses on supporting local producers. It is accumulating the biggest stockpiles ever after the government bought supply to aid farmers as growth slowed. The USDA's prediction for Chinese imports is about twice the drop it expects in global output, at a time when crops are improving across the U.S., India, Brazil and Australia.
We expect weak Chinese demand and high global production to continue weighing on prices," said Paul Christopher, the St. Louis-based chief international strategist at Wells Fargo Advisors. "The Chinese economy is slowing and export growth has been weaker than we expected for textile mills and other manufacturers."
Turkey with its long history of textile production is shifting its focus to technical textiles, finding application in apparel, as well as industries such as agriculture, construction, geology, healthcare and others. Large scale companies currently producing technical textiles are mainly located in Istanbul, Bursa, Kocaeli and Tekirdağ.
According to figures from the Istanbul Textile and Raw Materials Exporters’ Association (ITHIB) technical textiles exports of Turkey have increased tremendously in the recent years and reached approximately $1.4 billion in 2012. The biggest buyers are EU countries, led by Germany with 11 per cent share. As a specific product group, non-woven fabric exports constitute 19 per cent of total technical textile exports.
Istanbul, which is emerging as a leading centre for textile fashion and design, is also a hub for taking the existing Turkish technical textile capacity to world markets. This is aided by the Istanbul Textile Research and Development Center (ITA), which was established by ITHIB to support research and development activities within the industry, and to connect the private sector, universities, research centres and national and international buyers of technical textiles.
Australia’s Woolmark has launched a new campaign highlighting the benefits of washable wool apparel to increase the demand of woolen garments. The three-year campaign will involve an effort to persuade apparel businesses to add washable wool to their ranges, as well as educating consumers about wool’s easy care properties.
The campaign with the tagline ‘Tested by Nature, Tested by Us’, comes in response to research which shows that consumers strongly associate wool with being hard to care for. “This campaign is about stopping consumers associating wool with hand wash or dry clean, and emphasizes the washability aspects of wool,” said Cathryn Lee, The Woolmark Company’s category manager (Apparel Care Group).
“All products must be tested and comply with the strict Woolmark Specifications, which will give customers assurance of quality and peace of mind.” Woolmark-certified wool labeled as ‘machine wash’ or ‘machine wash and tumble dry’ is treated to prevent shrinkage, staining or fading.
Bangladesh’s leading economists has issues a warning that amidst weakening currencies, Bangladesh exports is set to face tough competition especially in the ready-made garment (RMG) sector. Indonesia's Rupiah, Indian Rupee, Turkish Lira, South African Rand have all weakened substantially against US dollar since May last.
Ahsan H Mansur, Executive Director at the Policy Research Institute of Bangladesh (PRI), said, "Our concern is about RMG and it is set to face the toughest competition from its rival nations." Turkey is one of the largest apparel-making countries with its largest share in Europe and its currency weakening means that its export prices are becoming cheaper.
Mansur said Bangladesh's exports might fall substantially due to the weakening of currencies of Turkey and Indonesia. Bangladesh gets duty benefits as a least developed country (LDC) in the EU and it is around 12 -15 per cent. But currency depreciations in Turkey, Indonesia and India are narrowing down this difference.
Zaid Bakht, Director (Research) at the Bangladesh Institute of Development Studies (BIDS) said the new phenomenon with respect to fall in value of currencies in emerging economies should be a 'headache' for Bangladesh which will affect the country's export earnings. Bangladesh earns more than $20 billion from export of woven and knit garment.
The Bangladesh government will recruit 60 additional factory inspectors by October in line with its efforts to regain the Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) in the US market. These inspectors will review readymade garment factories.
About 30 teams of the Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology will inspect some 1,750 factories. Four inspectors have already been appointed.
Earlier, after a devastating fire broke out in a factory, the government formed a committee comprising 11 ministers to oversee fire safety in the apparel sector with a view to resolving different problems in the country’s largest export earning sector.
The labor ministry with assistance from the International labor organisations will start inspecting the remaining garment factories that are outside the safety inspection program by the EU Accord and US Alliance by September 15.
A meeting will be held on September 7 to prepare an unified checklist of safety inspection where representatives from the ILO, Accord, Alliance, government officials, garment owners, workers representatives will also be present. Issues like implementation of a tripartite plan of action on fire and building and the steps taken to regain the GSP in the US market will also be taken up.
Björn Borg's distributor in the Netherlands has applied for a corporate reconstruction of its retail operations in the country. The plan is to implement a substantial reduction of the retail network, currently comprising 24 Björn Borg stores, against the backdrop of long-term weakness in the Dutch market...Read More
British accessories brand Cambridge Satchel Company is celebrating its fifth anniversary with a collaboration with fashion designer Vivienne Westwood. The special collaborative collection, first spotted at Westwood’s Red Label spring/summer 2014 show during London Fashion Week, is inspired by the British designer’s 1981 ‘Pirate’ collection and will launch this October...Read More
REPORT_ H&M Group sales including VAT increased in local currencies by 8 percent in the first nine months of the financial year. Sales in comparable units decreased by 2 percent. For the third quarter H&M Group sales including VAT increased in local currencies by 12 percent and sales in comparable units increased by 2 percent...Read More
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, taking place from 21st to 24th October 2013, is all set to show its sustainable side. For the first time, the trade fair features an “All about Sustainability” zone and underscores its eco focus at the Planet Textiles Conference.
The overall theme of the “All about Sustainability” zone is ‘Recycle’, featuring recycled textiles and products. “The issue of sustainability is becoming increasingly important for Chinese consumers as they become more conscious of environmental protection. This zone, therefore, provides new opportunities for overseas companies that have strong environmental credentials to enter the Chinese market as this trend begins to take off,” explains Wendy Wen, senior general manager of fair organiser Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd.
As a display and educational zone, “All about Sustainability” will not only offer presentations and discussions but leading companies in the field of sustainability will present their products and services. Among them outdoor clothing supplier Patagonia, a pioneer in the use of Repreve fibres, which contain recycled materials, including post-industrial waste and used plastic bottles. Repreve fibres are produced by Unifi, another exhibitor at the fair.
Swedisch clothing giant H&M will present its ‘Conscious’ collection as well as ‘Conscious Exclusive’, a new line of party wear for spring 2013. Both collections feature garments made from organic cotton, recycled polyester and Tencel.
Hong Kong-based NGO Redress will show visitors how to promote environmental sustainability in Asia’s fashion industry by reducing textile waste, pollution and water and energy consumption. The Crystal Group, also based in Hong Kong, will display their eco-friendly jeans production processes including laser and ozone bleaching and denim waste usage. Popular recycling fabrics will also be a hot topic in the “All about Sustainability” zone.
Together with the Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Yarn Expo Autumn and PH Value (formerly known as the China International Knitting Trade Fair), will run concurrently. All fairs will take place at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre.
www.messefrankfurt.com.hk
Luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has acquired a minority stake in London Fashion Week label J.W. Anderson, and named its eponymous designer creative director of luxury leather goods brand Loewe.The exact size of the stake in J.W. Anderson or the financial terms has not been disclosed, but LVMH did confirm that Jonathan Anderson remains the majority shareholder of the company. Rumours of a partnership between the designer and the group, which owns Givenchy, Marc Jacobs and Celine, started circulating earlier this month and made his SS14 show one of the must see presentations of LFW...Read More
Swiss luxury goods group Richemont (CFR.VX) is allegedly looking for a suitor for its leather articles brand Lancel. As main French media reported earlier this week, Richemont has appointed investment bank Nomura to advise on a possible sale of luxury leather goods brand...Read More
Asos director James Hart has resigned after 14 years with the online clothing retailer. Hart, who was one of the company's first employees in 1999, alongside founder Nick Robertson, is set to leave the business later this year to spend time developing his new family home...Read More
Some of the UK's finest independent boutiques are closing at a rate of 18 a day as high street retailers continue to suffer, according to the latest figures. More stores are closing than opening with fashion and clothes store retailers suffering the most, data from the Price Waterhouse Coopers and the Local Data claimed without providing specific figures. Meanwhile, charity shops, betting shops and cheque-cashing outlets continue to grow...Read More
Australian menswear retailer Industrie is set to make its UK debut in London’s Seven Dials in Covent Garden with the opening of its first store outside Australia...Read More
London Fashion Week designer Matthew Williamson has teamed up with Swedish high street retailer Lindex to launch a new collection of apparel for both women and children...Read More
Giorgio Armani always closes Milan Fashion Week and as one of Italy's last self-owned fashion companies, Mr Armani knows what to deliver to his clients, even if that means avoiding producing the most press worthy catwalk show...Read More
River Island has signed the Bangladesh factory safety Accord, a union-backed agreement designed to improve workplace safety in the country, following the Rana Plaza factory collapse which killed more than 1,000 textile workers five months ago...Read More
Belgian fashion designer Anthony Vaccarello is rumoured to be in talks with Italian fashion house Versace to be the next guest designer for its sister label Versus...Read More
The Italian luxury label has confirmed recently to be at the lookout for a new financial partner. Sources close to Versace have pointed out that the company would be ideally looking at selling a 15-20 percent stake in its capital. Institutional investors from South Korea and Qatar have been mentioned as potential suitors...Read More
Leather accessories brand Zatchels is to launch its first standalone store in Westfield London at the end of the month...Read More
Luxury designer brands Chanel, Prada and Alexander McQueen all feature in the top 20 of the annual CoolBrands list, following the disappointment last year where no fashion labels were featured. For the 12th annual survey, Chanel came in a 13, placed just ahead of Prada at 14, which hasn’t featured in the top 20 since 2007, while Alexander McQueen helmed by Sarah Burton, which last year was ranked outside the top 20 and named the coolest fashion brand, was ranked 19th...Read More
Department store Debenhams is celebrating its 200 year anniversary with an exclusive limited edition collection spanning across fashion and homewares. The collection, designed exclusive by its Designers at Debenhams, includes a floor-length gold sequin dress by Julien Macdonald, a luxury leather nude coat from Betty Jackson, as well as decorative plates and mugs designed by John Rocha, Ben de Lisi and Matthew Williamson...Read More
A quick look at Milan Fashion Week for SS14 shows..
1. An effortless, elegant and chic collection at Jil Sander
2. A succesful debut of Tod's ready-to-wear with Alessandra Facchinetti at the helm as creative director
3. Miuccia Prada's feminist statement at Prada
4. Golden coins as a cental theme at Dolce & Gabbana's first collection since the designers conviction of tax evasion
5. High expectations being met at Alexis Martial's first show for Iceberg...Read More
Fashion retail group Arcadia, which owns Topshop and Topman, is plotting to open more than 150 franchise stores over the next year as its pushes forward with its international expansion plans...Read More
Swiss luxury brand Bally has appointed Frederic de Narp as its new chief executive, effective November 4.
De Narp joins Bally from his position as president and chief executive of Harry Winston, where he has been credited with turning around the luxury jewellery and watch brand...Read More
British footwear designer Nicholas Kirkwood has sold a stake in his fashion label to LVMH to help him expand his brand internationally and “further develop his vision”. The French luxury conglomerate group behind brands including Louis Vuitton, Céline, Givenchy and Bulgari, has acquired a majority stake in Nicholas Kirkwood and will provide its “expertise” to help the footwear designer focus on the creative aspect of the business...Read More
REPORT_ For the fourth quarter Asos retail sales showed growth of 47 percent. International sales were 64 percent of total retail sales over the period compared with 65 percent last year. Asos expects profit before tax for the year ended August 31, 2013, to be marginally above expectations...Read More
The struggling Australian surfwear company Billabong has once more accepted help in form of a refinancing plan, this time from New York-based Centerbridge Partners and Los Angeles-based Oaktree Capital Management, together known as C/O Consortium. In July, Billabong had announced a deal with private equity firm Altamont Capital Partners and GSO Capital Partners that included a bridge loan for 294 million dollars...Read More
REPORT_ Dick’s Sporting Goods unveiled its detailed long-term plan and key strategies to deliver sales and operating profit growth and drive shareholder value over the next five years. During its analyst day meeting, the company presented a sales target of 10 billion dollars by the end of fiscal 2017, representing a 5-year compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) of approximately 11 percent from fiscal 2012 sales of 5.8 billion dollars...Read More
Marigay McKee, chief merchant at Harrods, has been confirmed as the new president of Saks Fifth Avenue, following Hudson’s Bay Company’s acquisition of the American retailer. The appointment will take effect shortly after completion of HBC’s acquisition of Saks, which is expected to close before the end of the year...Read More
Marks and Spencer has launched an external design studio in collaboration with The British School of Fashion, as the high street retailer looks to investing in “British fashion leaders of tomorrow”...Read More
Walpole chief executive Julia Carrick has stepped down from her role after 13 years at the luxury brands trade body, as she looks to “new challenges within the luxury arena”. Carrick, who joined Walpole in 2000, will continue a close relationship with Walpole as she has been confirmed as the group’s first global ambassador and member of the Walpole Advisory Council...Read More
Bangladesh will not be affected by the changes in Canada’s General Preferential Tariff (GPT) as duty-free access facility for the products of least developed countries remains intact, said Canadian High Commissioner to Bangladesh Heather Crudden. “Nothing will change for Bangladesh. Duty-free access for LDCs will remain as it has been,” said Cruden. "The GPT would be modernized by graduating 72 higher-income and trade competitive countries as of January, 1, 2015. As an LDC, Bangladesh is unaffected by these changes since it is eligible for duty-free access under the LDC tariff," she said.
Canada would take steps to ensure that the benefits of the LDCT are not reduced by the changes to the GPT, Cruden said adding this means the LDCT rules of origin requirements will be amended so that apparel producers will continue to benefit from duty-free access to Canada while using textile inputs from current GPT countries like China and India. She said an air agreement has been initiated between Bangladesh and Canada and if it is signed, it will open up more opportunities for both the countries.
On the change in GTP, BGMEA leader said the export of Bangladeshi products including garment to Canada would not face obstacles. The envoy also expressed concern over the working conditions of the country's readymade garment (RMG) industry citing the Savar and Tazreen tragedies as evidence. "Like many other countries, Canada remains concerned about dangerous working conditions in the RMG sector."
The European Bank for Reconstruction and Development continues to boost Turkey’s Anatolian regions, making €3.7 million loan to Kivanc Tekstil, a leading producer of clothing fabrics and yarn based in Adana. The EBRD financing will allow Kivanc Tekstil to purchase more than 50 weaving machines to expand its operations. The loan will also be used to install an additional generator that will increase the factory’s co-generation capacity and recycle its own steam, thereby saving water, energy and money.
Kivanc Tekstil, 100 per cent owned and controlled by the founding family of the same name, has successfully operated in the textile sector for more than 60 years. Today it is an industry leader in Adana, a major commercial centre and the home of Turkey’s textile industry. The company supplies high-quality ‘Made in Turkey’ fabrics using the latest designs. Thousands of national and international clothing manufacturers use Kivanc Tekstil fabrics, including brands such as Banana Republic, Zara and Ann Taylor. “We were impressed by this tight-knit family-owned company, run by four brothers, that operates in the highly-competitive global textile market, and in a challenging economic environment,” said EBRD Director for Turkey, Mike Davey.
Ziya Kivanc, CEO and shareholder in the company, said: “As our business grows and our focus shifts more to the export market, it is important for us to work with an international lender with the vision and capabilities of the EBRD. Working with the EBRD has been a learning experience for all of us at Kivanc and has enabled us to see our business from a different perspective.”
China’s dwindling share in the global textile and clothing business, because of surging cost of production and Pakistan’s expected duty-free access to the European Union (EU) from next year, are being viewed by the textile industry as a ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ opportunity for the country.On the other hand, massive opportunities are about to open up for Pakistan to at least double its share in the global textile and clothing trade of $800 billion, from slightly above 1.5 per cent to three per cent over the next two to three years.However, the country is not fully geared up to grab the upcoming opportunities.
“Pakistan is in a unique position today to double its present share of just over $13 billion in the international textile and clothing trade in the short to medium-term,” believes Amir Fayyaz, a leading Lahore-based producer of processed fabric for the world’s major brands.
China’s share in the global textile and clothing trade has dropped from $300 billion to almost $270 billion in the last one year. “Imagine where will our textile exports reach even if we succeed in grabbing half of the market share China has lost,” he said. Many Chinese textile companies had shown keen interest in setting up joint ventures with Pakistani textile producers, added Fayyaz.
The reduction in China’s share in the global textile trade is only one part of the story.Another major window of opportunity for Pakistan’s textiles is likely to open up from January 1, only four months from now in the shape of duty-free access to the EU market. However, many textile producers doing business with buyers from EU member countries say the chances of Pakistan increasing its share in the European market immediately are not very bright because of the energy crisis at home.
REPORT_ Debenhams has announced a trading update for the 52 weeks to August 31, 2013, ahead of its full year results. Gross transaction value and like-for-like sales for the group have grown during the year. Profit before tax is anticipated to be in line with current market expectations. Gross margin is expected to be flat, in line with guidance, reflecting a good recovery in the second half following a decline of 20 basis points in the first half...Read More
An investment fund managed by Chinese Fosun International Ltd. has announced the acquisition of a 35 percent stake in Caruso Spa. Fosun has chosen the Italian label as its first investment in the luxury sector in Europe as Guo Guangchang, chairman and founder of Fosun Group said in a note: “we are interested in investments linked to the secular trend of manufacturing and consumption upgrade in China. Fosun will leverage its own competitive advantages to help Caruso expanding in the China market as well as bringing this precious made in Italy brand to the Chinese consumers"...Read More
French Connection has shut down all its concessions in Northern Ireland in an attempt to get back to the green. Commenting the chain’s first-half results, chief executive Stephen Marks revealed that other so called 'zombie outlets' were spared to avoid incurring in further costs...Read More
ANALYSIS_ The Spanish textile giant has reported net income for the first half of the year up to 951 million euros, ahead of the 934 million euros average estimate of analysts polled by Bloomberg. Inditex posted a 6 percent rise in sales to 7.7 billion euros in the first half to July 31, also beating forecasts, compared with a 17 percent rise in the same period last year, reported Reuters...Read More
REPORT_ JD Sports Fashion has announced interim results for the 26 weeks ended August 3, 2013. Interim dividend increased by 3.5 percent. Gross profit in 2013 showed a 0.4 percent increase compared to 2012. Like for like sales for the 26 week period in the core UK and Ireland Sport and Fashion fascias increased by 5.8 percent. Like for like sales for the core UK and Ireland Sport and Fashion fascias in the five week period to September 7, 2013, were up 2.8 percent...Read More
Christopher Bailey loves an English garden, and his Burberry Prorsum collection for next season found inspiration in its colour palette.
A bouquet of pastels, such as pale rose to forget-me-not blues made for a softer and romantic collection. Whilst we didn't see the Burberry classic trench, lightweight spring outerwear was a key feature, and it came updated in boxier cuts and dropped shoulders.
The pencil skirt was a key style and came in lace, both sheer or striped, worn under a boxy jacket or with a simple sweater, a look we've come to associate with Carine Roitfeld.
Sales of accessories are highly profitable for Burberry, and the women's Prorsum collection include wide pastel-coloured belts, soft scarves and soft folded clutch bags.
www.burberryplc.com
www.londonfashionweek.com
REPORT_ The Prada SpA Board of Directors today examined and approved the interim report for the six months ended July 31, 2013. Consolidated net revenues 1,728.1 million euros (2306.6 million dollars), an 11.7 percent increase on the 1,547.4 million euros (2065.4 million dollars) reported in the first half of 2012...Read More
A new report states the world's clothing and textile production is continuing year-on-year growth, with emerging economies leading the way. While the latest figures support forecasts for a "modest" rise in total world manufacturing growth in 2013, apparel and textile output in the quarter is lower than it was in the first three months of the year, Just-Style reports...Read More
REPORT_ For the half year ending July 31, 2013, French Connection revenue was 6.4 percent lower than the equivalent period last year. Gross margin for the half year was 47.3 percent compared to 47.7 percent in 2012. Total group operating expenses were 7 percent lower in the period. License income decreased by 15 percent. UK/Europe accounted for 70 percent of group revenue. Revenue in the group’s wholesale business based in Hong Kong was 5 percent of group revenue. In North America the retail division saw a 5 percent decline in revenue in the period. The group’s online business was 20 percent of global retail sales...Read More
According to the the tenth edition of the Retail Asia Top 500 Retailers Ranking, published by Euromonitor International and Retail Asia, Asia Pacific’s Top 500 retailers generated more than 1 trillion US dollar in sales in 2012, almost one fourth of the region’s overall retail sales of 4 trillion US dollar...Read More
London Fashion Week designer Christopher Kane is set to open his brand’s first store on London’s Mount Street next year.
The designer, who received investment from Kering (formerly PPR) earlier this year, will join other luxury British brands including Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney, as well as Roksanda Ilincic who is also opening her first store on the street...Read More
The "All in for My Girls" campaign from Adidas in China has proven to be quite a revelation. The advertisement portrays ‘tribes’ of slim, pretty girls, often clad in pink, smiling whilst engaging in a myriad of sporting pursuits with their friends. The brand ambassador is no athlete but Taiwanese pop star Hebe. While Adidas is far from shedding all vestiges of its heart-pumping, health-oriented sports positioning, this campaign manages to present it with a heavy dose of girlish appeal, paying heed to local views on sports and beauty ideals...Read More
In one of the strongest shows of the week, David Koma showed a focused collection of graphic bodycon dresses. The look, though sometimes hard and rigid, was at the same time very wearable by its clever tailoring and use of details, however fitted the dresses...Read More
The spring/summer 2014 season of London Fashion Week kicked off on Friday with a bright collection from Bora Aksu inside the British Fashion Council’s new tents, which this September features a new U-shaped catwalk.Over the course of the five days, LFW will feature 58 catwalk shows and 15 presentations, from names including Burberry, Mulberry, Vivienne Westwood, Matthew Williamson, Christopher Kane, and Tom Ford, and for the first time Manolo Blahnik, Smythson and Barbara Casasola join the official schedule...Read More
French luxury brand Longchamp opened its European flagship boutique on Regent Street during the London Fashion Week weekend. The chief executive of the luxury handbag maker has credited London as the leading “global city” as it offers access to British and international shoppers...Read More
Marc by Marc Jacobs has apologised and removed from sale a T-shirt featuring imagery that is similar to that of neo-Nazi band Skrewdriver. The white T-shirt bears the image of two combat-boots, which resembles Screwdriver’s 1987 LP Boots & Braces...Read More
London Fashion Week label Peter Pilotto is designing a capsule collection with American retailer Target for spring 2014, which will feature women’s apparel, accessories and swimwear. The limited-edition line will be available from February 9, 2014 at most Target stores in the US and Canada, as well as Target.com. The retailer is also partnering with luxury e-tailer Net-a-Porter to offer a curated selection of the collection, to reach an international audience...Read More
Chinese menswear fashion company Zuoan Fashion announced its second quarter results, which ended on June 30th, 2013. Net profit increased by 2.2 percent from 66.2 million yuan (10.8 million US dollar) last year to 67.6 million yuan (11 million US dollar) in the second quarter due to a higher sales volume and lower selling and distribution costs...Read More
ANALYSIS_British retailer Next Plc. has admitted to have had a “stock blunder” due to a warmer than expected month of August that left the high street fashion brand short on summery clothes. Nevertheless, Next noted a 2.2 percent growth in revenue to 1.68 billion pounds during the first half of its current fiscal year...Read More
After the big compensation meeting that took place yesterday and on Wednesday, 11th and 12 September, 2013 in Geneva, the victims of the fire at Tazreen Fashions in November 2012 and the collapse of the Rana Plaza building in April of this year are still left out in the rain. Literally in some cases as with the main bread-earner(s) gone, many families now don’t even have enough money to pay for a roof over their heads.
Of the 29 brands and retailers that were invited to discuss compensation payments as they had all been producing garments at the five textile factories housed at Rana Plaza, only nine showed up: Bon Marché, Camaieu, El Corte Inglés, Kik, Loblaw, Mascot, Matalan, Primark and Store Twenty One. Twenty others, among them big players like Carrefout, Benetton, Inditex and Walmart, failed to show up; the remaining ones are Adler, Auchan, Cato Corp, The Children’s Place, Dressbarn, Essenza, FTA International, Gueldenpfennig, Iconix Brand, JC Penney, Kids Fashion Group, LPP, Mango, Manifattura Corona, NKD, Premier Clothing, PWT Group and Texman.
IndustriALL Global Union assistant general secretary Monika Kemperle was disappointed by the small number of participants on the buyers’ side. “Consumers will be shocked that almost a half-year has passed since the Rana Plaza disaster with only one brand so far providing any compensation to the disaster’s victims. I respect those brands that came to these meetings. But I cannot understand brands that are not around the table,” she said.
After the meeting, the one brand that has been paying up so far - Irish clothing discounter Primark - committed to providing a further three months’ salary to all affected families as emergency relief but more is needed. “We appreciate Primark having already made a three month salary payment to the injured and victims’ families. But when I go back to Bangladesh they will ask me what more was decided here. Those families need food, medicine and housing. Please, all brands and retailers, match that three months salary for these people in urgent need. Some time can be expected to establish a sustainable solution, but an immediate payment to help these families must be made now,” said ZM Kamrul Anam of the IndustriALL Bangladesh Council.
Clothing giant C&A did attend the compensation meeting for the Tazreen Fashions victims on Wednesday and demonstrated its commitment and willingness to pay a substantial compensation. German clothing company Karl Rieker was also at the meeting and confirmed its readiness to contribute. The remaining 12 brands and retailers that failed to show up were Delta Apparel, Dickies, Disney, El Corte Inglés, Edinburgh Woolen Mill, Kik, Li & Fung, Piazza Italia, Sean John, Sears, Teddy Smith and Walmart.
Especially retail giant Walmart was criticized for its apathy. “Walmart is the world's largest retailer and one of the largest buyers from Bangladesh. They should be a leader in taking responsibility for their global supply chain. Once again Walmart had failed to make a commitment to the workers in Bangladesh who produce the millions of garments sold around the world at large profit,” commented UNI Global Union general secretary Philip Jennings.
Though the Bangladesh meeting was a first step, concrete results have yet to be achieved. It was agreed though to meet again in two weeks to discuss further steps and a coordination committee was formed. All attending brands and retailers confirmed their financial contribution and their commitment to go forward as soon as possible. Those who didn’t come won’t be able to hide forever: Ineke Zeldenrust from the Clean Clothes Campaign confirmed that the organization and others will continue to put pressure on the brands that have not yet committed to any negotiation process, let alone compensation payments.
In a related case, the workers of Ali Enterprises in Karachi, Pakistan where a fire killed 250 workers and injured more than 600 exactly a year ago and their families are also still awaiting their compensation payments. Though German textile discounter Kik as the only known buyer attended the Rana Plaza meeting in Geneva on Thursday, the Ali Enterprises case is long from closed. Upon mounting public pressure, Kik agreed in December 2012 to pay one million US dollars in emergency relief. Though most of this amount has been distributed among the families of the victims, more is pending and needed.
After New York Fashion week comes more fashion in London and Madrid. Both cities have their fashion weeks from today untill Tuesday, September 17th...Read More
ANALYSIS_Shares of Canadian yoga apparel retailer Lululemon Athletica Inc. (NASDAQ:LULU) were down in pre-market trading Thursday, dropping about eight percent from Wednesday’s close, after the company issued a mixed earnings report...Read More
American fashion triumphs when it comes to casualwear and the New York spring summer 2014 collections showed a strong sport-chic influence. Tennis was a recurring theme, as seen at Alexander Wang and Tess Giberson, and the colour white shone through and was emphasized with lightness and pale shades in most of the collections...Read More
REPORT_ Wolford had a 2.4 percent decline in revenues in the first quarter of the financial year 2013-14. Revenue growth in retail points of sale was plus 5 percent. Wolford expects an improvement in wholesale revenues that should halt the current negative trend and it expects the retail business to generate further revenue growth...Read More
The prospects of inclusion of readymade garments and hand-knotted carpets in the Nepal Trade Integration Strategy (NTIS) 2010 priority product list, is getting brighter. Despite the two product categories contributing a great share in the country’s overall exports, these items have not been included in NTIS’s list of 19 priority items. Hence, industrialists and exporters have continuously been lobbying for their inclusion in the list.
In view of this lobbying, the ministry of commerce and supplies has decided to hold a mid-term review of NTIS 2010, and is also likely to review its product list. The review would assess and evaluate all the projects undertaken under the NTIS program.
For Nepali financial year that ended on July 15, 2013, the country’s Pashmina exports stood at Rs 2.07 billion, compared to exports of above Rs 1.9 billion in 2011-12. However, exports of most other products included in the NTIS priority list faced decline during the period.
Nepal Trade Integration Strategy 2010 charts a possible course for the development of the country’s export sector over the next three to five years, together with possible capacity development.
The European Union has been helping Pakistan get ready for the Generalized System of Preferences (GSP). Pakistan expects to gain this facility in 2014, which would help its textile industry optimally utilize its potential, which still remains untapped. A comprehensive strategy is being developed in this regard to take full advantage of the free market access under the GSP Plus system.
Germany particularly has been helping Pakistan’s textile industry to improve its operations through energy conservation. Meanwhile, the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) is gearing up to invest in a coal-based 3,000 megawatts energy project to address the energy issue and is planning to organize several road shows across the EU and the US to promote Pakistani textiles in those markets.
In this context APTMA has taken up a new initiative called ‘Triple Bottom Line’ (TBL). This is a corporate social responsibility strategy that focuses on people, planet and profit to project the entire textile supply chain of Pakistan as an environment-friendly and socially responsible industry.
APTMA is also formulating an integrated policy to convince international customers that Pakistan has a reliable textile chain for business purposes. It has already adopted a number of initiatives during the last three years to comply with international business practices.
Rajasthan’s garment industry which employs more than 3 lakh people is facing a huge labor shortage in spite of the government’s taking steps for the industry. Accommodation and transportation are the main concerns keeping employees away. "Despite our promise to train and employ them, we are not getting labourers. Workers are not willing to relocate due to the high cost of living. The city at Tapukara in Haryana-Rajasthan border will have full-fledged facilities for labour, with active support of the Rajasthan government.” In the near future, industries from Gurgaon and Haryana are expected to shift to Rajasthan. If this happens, the state will lose a huge share of revenue," said Gautam Nair, MD, Matrix Clothing, Udyog Vihar VI, Gurgaon.
Labour and employees working in the industrial belts at Gurgaon’s Udyog Vihar and Manesar face tremendous problems of transportation and poor living conditions. "As we fight problems of labour, electricity, transportation among others, many garment manufacturing units in the city are now looking at the alternative of moving to Rajasthan, as the state government is offering better facilities in its new industrial policy for the garment industries," explains Pavan Kumar Swami, an industrialist and manufacturers of Macho Jeans.
Greensboro-based apparel company VF Corporation recently announced that it will establish three global innovation centres by 2014. This is an initiative to focus on game changing product innovations in technical apparel, footwear and jeans. These centres will be equipped with high end staff comprising of engineers, scientists, technical designers and key talent who will combine proprietary insights with consumer needs and a deep understanding of technology and new materials.
"These Global Innovation Centres will spark opportunities to fuel VF's growth and shape the future of apparel and footwear," said Eric C. Wiseman, CEO. "From the mass market to the mountain top and from the US to South America, Asia and Europe, we will develop and deliver innovative, 'must-have' products for consumers,” Wiseman added. “We will inspire consumers to buy our products and, as a result, drive revenue growth and even higher profitability."
The centres will focus on developing innovative products. "In 2010, we first laid out our vision for the role that innovation would play in VF's growth," he said. "This move is critical to advancing our journey as it gives us a competitive advantage in the apparel industry. We will fully leverage what we learn by sharing output from the innovation centres across our 30-plus brands," added Wiseman.
The technical apparel innovation centre will be in Alameda, Calif, jeans centre will be in Greensboro, N.C. and the footwear centre will be in Stratham, N.H. All are expected to be operational during the first half of 2014.
Scott Baxter, Group President for Jeanswear, Imagewear and South America, is based in Greensboro and will oversee the new centre. He said the leaders of VF’s denim brands have more meetings in Greensboro than anywhere else, so it was a logical location. He added, “This centre can focus exclusively on innovation and breakthrough innovation. We want to work on bigger platforms and bigger ideas.”
Owing to international pressures, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association is preparing a list of garment factories that are non-operational and existing only on paper. Following recent tragedies, the pressure from international buyers has increased. BGMEA vice-president Shahidullah Azim says that they had been assessing the number of non-operational factories as the ministerial committee on social compliance had been repeatedly asking them to submit the list of operational factories. He said the number of BGMEA member factories was 5,400 but a large number of factories had been remaining non-operational for long.
Azim also said that about 1,800 member factories were now out of operation and some of them were existing only on paper with no physical presence. He also said that the government might set a policy for non-operational factories and the BGMEA would not take the responsibility of the fate of the factories that exist only on paper.
A committee headed by its first vice president Nasiruddin Ahmed Chowdhury was formed recently to prepare a list of such factories and after that they will discuss with the concerned ministries to decide the next steps, he said. Explaining the reason for such a move, he said that there are names of factories but in reality when the inspectors visit, they find no sign of any factory which creates problems. Moreover, there are also pressure from the buyers and the government for a real picture of the functional factories, he further said.
Bangladesh’s export of apparel products to India rose by about 37 per cent in fiscal year 2012-13 thanks to duty-free and quota-free access of some textile products into the Indian market. Garment exports to India increased mainly due to the tariff concession. Bangladesh sees a bright export potential in India. India has a strong demand for Bangladeshi products like trousers, shirts, blouses, skirts, kids’ wear, cotton nightwear and jeans.
A break-up of Bangladesh exports to India reveals that textile fibers, paper yarn, and woven fabric constitute about 24 per cent of the exports followed by other manmade textile articles, which constitute about 14 per cent. However, the devaluation of Indian rupee against the dollar may affect exports of readymade garments as Indian consumers would cut consumption.
Meanwhile India has pledged supplies of two million bales of cotton to Bangladesh — its main competitor in garment exports —starting October. Bangladesh textile mills have been assured of a smooth flow of cotton from India even if India has to ban cotton exports to other countries.
Assuring raw material supplies to Bangladesh, which depends on imports to cater to apparel export demand, could further enhance its competitiveness against Indian mills, considering that labor costs in Bangladesh stand at 53 per cent of India's and power costs at 63 per cent.
The Forum on Color and Quality Management of Textile & Garment Brands was held in Shanghai, China, August 20 and 21. More than 70 delegates from more than 30 textile and apparel brands, companies, universities, testing institutes and equipment suppliers attended this forum such as Perry Ellis, PVH, IKEA, Hugo Boss, Datacolor, Fulida, Anoky etc.
Mohamed Noorulla, VP of Perry Ellis International, introduced the color management and supply chain management of Perry Ellis. His presentation dwelt on color approval, color management and speed-to-market, provided a method of instruction of color supply chain management.
A sales manager of Datacolor Trading (Shanghai) expounded the application of digital color management in domestic and international garment brands. The forum was co-sponsored by China Textile Information Center (CTIC) and China Fashion & Color Association (CFCA) and organized by CNCSCOLOR Global technical service center and China National Textile and Apparel Council.
Topics centered on areas as how to improve the color and quality management level of the textile and garment supply chain, how to control and optimize cost, how to speed to market and so on. In addition to the keynote speech, special topics like application of color management and product quality management in the textile and garment supply chain were discussed.
The Punjab Industrial Estates Development and Management Company (PIEDMC) in the Punjab province of Pakistan will develop a garment city in order to revitalise the garment industry. The garment city will be established in about 400 to 500 acres of land close proximity to Lahore. This proposed industrial estate would provide modern infrastructure.
The company is in process of constructing five other industrial estates in the province. The estates would make the garment sector more competitive and help accelerate manufacturing capacity.
PIEDMC was established in 2003 with a public-private partnership to achieve orderly, planned and rapid industrialization. The main objective is to develop a chain of new industrial estates along with upgrading existing ones in a dynamic and innovative manner by providing solutions to the problems of prospective entrepreneurs. Its mission is to provide world class quality infrastructure, environment, confidence and freedom for local and foreign investors to enhance their business activities.
In Punjab, the company’s policy of creating modern industrial infrastructure has generated more than 80,000 new jobs and attracted billions of rupees in fresh investment in Lahore’s Sundar Industrial Estate. PIEDMC has started to take efforts to get the status of special economic zone for all its industrial estates in order to expedite industrialization.
www.pie.com.pk/
A strike by Turkish textile workers has ended following the signing of a collective labor agreement that answered all the demands of the workers’ union. The union and the employers signed a three-year collective agreement. Workers had four main demands, relating to bonuses, overtime pay, a seniority wage rise and a salary rise. According to the agreement, bonuses will return to the previous level of a 120-day salary instead of the current 72.
Workers who work overtime on weekdays, general holidays, national holidays and regional holidays will receive double pay. An additional payment will be made to workers regarding their work duration. As every year adds seven liras, a worker that has been working for 10 years will receive 70 liras additional to his or her wage.
Some 12,000 textile workers went on strike in August, affecting around 30 major textile and clothing producers. About 55 per cent of workers in the sector earn a legal minimum wage. Because of low wages, qualified workers leave the sector and the staff turnover rate reaches 37 per cent.
The textile industry in Turkey covers cotton and synthetic yarns, fibers and fabrics, home textiles, ready-wear and apparel. It is the largest economic sector in Turkey. Turkey is the world’s sixth biggest ready to wear and apparel manufacturer.
The Wearable Technologies Conference will be held in Taipei (Taiwan) during the Taiwan International Cloud Technology & Internet of Things Show, from October 8 to 11, 2013. The Wearable Technologies Conference is the world’s leading innovation and market development platform for wearable technologies and it’s being held in Asia for the first time. It encourages dialogue between decision makers, experts and developers and gathers the whole ecosystem to bring forward new solutions and applications.
Taipei is the logical next step for the wearable technologies conference. Some of the biggest technology manufacturers are in Asia, especially in Taiwan and China. The Taipei conference will present developments, exciting innovations and new insights into wearable technologies, cloud computing and machine-to-machine communications. Selected enabling wearable technologies as well as stars of the wearable technologies market will also be featured.
Wearable Technologies Group is the pioneer and leading innovation and market development platform for technologies worn close to, on, and even in the body. Since 2006 the platform has successfully established a network of more than 3,000 companies, consisting of market leaders and highly innovative companies
www.wearable-technologies.com/
After showing a rise for two consecutive months, production in the Spanish textile industry fell by 5.4 per cent year-on-year in June 2013. In April and May this year, the Spanish textile industry showed a 17.9 per cent year-on-year and 2.4 per cent year-on-year rise in production respectively.
Among the textile subsectors, the biggest increase in production was recorded in the manufacturing of fur articles which increased by 22.7 per cent year-on-year, followed by yarn production, which grew by 3.4 per cent, while readymade garment (except fur) increased by 0.6 per cent.
The decline in Spanish textile industry production is in line with the general decline of 4.6 per cent observed in overall Spanish industrial production in June 2013. Spain is an important manufacturer of textile machinery. The Spanish textile machinery industry has flourished with a structure of small and medium sized companies. Though Spain is a supplier of reliable and good quality textile machinery, it is facing tough competition from other European countries as well as from Asia.
The Spanish textile industry recorded a fall of 0.1 per cent in the month of June compared to 0.6 per cent increase in the month of May 2013. In fact, in June 2013, Spain’s textile export prices dipped for the first time since January 2010. Production of knitted or crocheted garments decreased by 5.6 per cent year-on-year, while textile finishing activity declined by 4.1 per cent.
For several seasons Esprit has been busy rebuilding its brand, but it's investors remain unimpressed. Marketing is second nature to most high street brands, but a brand's essence should be about its product. Perhaps that is were Hong Kong-based Esprit is getting it wrong. Keeping consumer interest embodies so much more than just advertising. At the end of the day a high street brand like Esprit must have product that is relevant and unique...Read More
Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes has announced a partnership with Woolmark Gold, a seal of approval granted by the Woolmark Company for the Chinese region.Launched in China in 2011 by Australian Wool Innovation, owners of The Woolmark Company, the Woolmark Gold symbol guarantees that the standard of cloth or fabric used is made of one of the world’s finest natural fibres...Read more
London Fashion Week designer J.W. Anderson is rumoured to be in talks with LVMH, the French luxury conglomerate group behind brands including Louis Vuitton, Céline, Givenchy and Bulgari...Read More
REPORT_ For the first half of the year Next sales were 2.2 percent ahead of last year. Pre-tax earnings per share were up 14 percent. Retail sales were down 0.9 percent on last year. New space added 2.7 percent to retail sales. Retail operating margins improved by 0.2 percent...Read More
REPORT_ Richemont sales for the five months ended August 31, 2013, increased by 9 percent at constant exchange rates. At actual exchange rates, sales rose by 4 percent negatively impacted by the weakening of the US dollar and the yen against the euro...Read More
Well-known women’s ethnic fashion wear brand ‘W’ from TCNS Clothing has assigned its creative duties to Focus Circle. The agenda is to create brand and season's campaign, retail communication apart from handling collection-specific announcements and trend news...Read More
Asos is to stop selling Primark clothing on its e-commerce site, as the 12 week trial for the fast fashion brand comes to an end.
Primark has said that it will not renew the option nor launch its own transactional website. Primark's finance director John Bason stated: the trial had provided some insight into online retailing but "the best way to get profitable growth is on the high street"...Read More
Australian Fusion Retail Brands, former Colorado Group, is up for sale as its private equity owners want to deinvest in the brand. The fashion label will be portrayed as a pure-play footwear retailer after it sold its clothing brand JAG for an undisclosed sum, as reported by Australian media...Read More
Blue Harbour Group, a hedge fund based in Connecticut, presented a 13D filing on Chico´s Fas, Inc. on Monday, disclosing a 5.6 percent stake (around 9 million shares) in the womenswear company...Read More
The Outdoor Industry Association (OIA), the US trade association of the outdoor recreation industry based in Boulder, Colorado and Washington D.C., has come up with a Social Responsibility Toolkit (SRT) developed to “help brands and suppliers start and improve their social responsibility programs”.
The just released guidelines are one part of the SRT’s three created by the Social Responsibility Working Group (SRWG) and the Fair Labour Working Group, which includes retailers such as New Balance, The North Face and Timberland. Billed as a “guidebook with strategy guidance, tools and resources that can be adapted to suit any company’s needs”, the first part addresses basic awareness and any compliance issues a company may have.
The remaining two parts will look at the improvements and aspirational levels of social responsibility practices and programs that a company may want to incorporate; part two and three are scheduled for release within the next year. Dozens of outdoor industry companies worked on the toolkit, which is set up as an open-source working document so that it can evolve with and respond to the growing needs of the outdoor industry in terms of improvements in supply chain operations and management.
“It’s important to outdoor industry companies to promote and monitor safe and fair treatment of the workers who make our products, yet it can be challenging to figure out exactly how to go about implementing a program to achieve this. We encourage companies to use this toolkit to establish new social responsibility programs, as well as to assess and improve the programs they may already have,” said Mary Bean of Columbia Sportswear, SRWG leader in charge of the development of the updated Toolkit.
The US outdoor industry is a 646 billion dollar industry of which the OIA is the leading trade association, serving more than 4,000 manufacturers, distributors, suppliers, sales representatives and retailers. Though some of the recommendations and practices may be country specific, the SRT has been developed keeping any company’s needs in mind.
The Tookit is a result of one of the four key areas – social responsibility and fair labor issues – that the OIA’s SWG is currently working on. The three others working toward sustainability and responsibility in the outdoor industry are index development for apparel, footwear and equipment; responsible chemicals management and materials traceability throughout the supply chain.
The British high street can't seem to attract shopkeepers as the vacancy rate has stagnated at 14.1 percent, only slightly down from 14.2 percent in February. The results come from a published report by the Local Data Company, who have shown that in the top 650 UK shopping centres there is a considerable issue with empty shop spaces...Read More
Luxury footwear label Stuart Weitzman is looking to expand the brand’s international reach with the appointment of Wayne Kulkin as chief executive officer. Kulkin, who was previously vice chairman, has been tasked to focus on “strategic global expansion” and other growth opportunities for the Stuart Weitzman brand in his new role as CEO...Read More
The textile industry in Spain is mainly composed of small and medium enterprises which significantly limit the investment capacity of the sector. The family nature of most companies in Spain’s Catalonia region, the lack of entrepreneurial vision and poor motivation are the reasons for the slow growth in the sector.
Since the small and medium-sized textile companies cannot implement new strategies, there is a decline in operating margins of the whole sector. Lack of funding opportunities and shortage of specialized personnel are also reasons that are affecting modernization in the Spanish textile sector. This scenario has led to shutdown of many companies that have failed to adapt to changing market situations.
One major threat faced by the Spanish textile sector is the relocation of production activity to emerging countries, particularly in Asia. Restrictions on textile imports were removed during the liberalization of trade in 2005, which established Chinese leadership in the textile world.
The traditional commercial structure and the difficulty of access to new distribution channels has led to a high degree of fragmentation in the Spanish textile sector and resulted in lack of cooperation between enterprises.
Interstoff Asia Essential, the region’s best trade fair for the latest fabrics, trends and technologies will be held from September, 25 to 27 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. With the expansion of four country or region pavilions from China, Japan, Korea and Taiwan, this edition will have a lot more to offer to visitors. Over 170 exhibitors are expected to take part. Fashionable fabrics is one of the main categories at the fair. Dali Fibre Industrial from China will display their new dual and tri-colour ‘draw textured’ mélange series which boasts of better dyeing effects. Other leading Chinese firms include Wuxi Shuangda Plush and Cixi Haiteng Plush, both producers of cashmere and imitation fur, and Jiangsu Girmes Special Textile, a supplier of high-quality velvet. Uni Textile, producers of Japanese-made woven and knitted fabrics for ladies wear with print and dye finishing effects will be present at the fair.
Functional fabrics from around Asia also feature strongly at the fair. Tamurakoma from Japan are suppliers of high-tech fabrics for sportswear and outdoor wear that boast of innovative coating and laminating, while Korean company PAKA Intertex will introduce its micro nylon or cotton and reversible fabrics. FSPG hi-tech from China will showcase their easytex breathable membrane fabric – an eco-friendly textile that has similar breathability properties to skin.
Eco fabrics are another category of the show. First-time exhibitor PT Indorama Synthetics from Indonesia will demonstrate their waste reduction credentials with Nusantara fabrics made from recycled polyester bottles. Taiwanese company Everest Textile, producers of woven and knitted fabrics for casual wear, outdoor wear and sportswear, offers a range of environment friendly products because of their sustainable manufacturing process.
Companies specializing in garment accessories will also feature at the show. Key exhibitors include Hong Kong-based Cosmos Enterprises, a button producer that uses only natural materials. Exhibitors from China include clothes rack manufacturer Taizhou Huajia Hanger, and ladies’ scarf supplier Shanghai Talent Fashion.
Elite China, Fine Japan, Premium Korea and Amazing Taiwan make a comeback this year which have increased in size from last year’s show. Featured exhibitors in these pavilions include Guangzhou Wanhua Textile, Toray Industries, Dong Il Textile and Vinwell Textile from China, Japan, Korea and Taiwan, respectively.
Value-added textile manufacturers-cum-exporters want to get rid of double taxations and ‘draconian’ excise laws, which have stagnated the entire sector's growth. Scores of representatives from different value-added textile associations recently held a meeting with Federal Secretary Commerce Qasim M Niaz, seeking an immediate end to their long-running problems.
Chairman Council of All Pakistan Textile Associations (Capta), Zubair Motiwala led the exporters to discuss the key obstacles to the sector's growth. He said the Federal government should abolish two per cent GST from the zero-rated sectors to ease their financial positions.
“The exporters are in deep financial problems from double taxations by the federal government of two per cent GST and the second by the provincial government 16 per cent on services,” he pointed out. He said customs officials are altogether indifferent to the significance of exports to the national economy as they never stay back from creating hurdles on import and export stages to perturb the stakeholders. He also pointed out four excise laws which are hitting the entire textile sector, saying that the FBR deceptively made them part of sales tax, forcing the exporters to pay the taxes anyhow.
The FBR laws of GST on selling of goods to unregistered companies are still dubious, creating problems for exporters. "Everybody is violating the law. We are under offensive," he said. Without bribe no tax refund is possible, he claimed, saying the FBR's laws and regulations are against the growth of entire textile sector.
Motiwala said the poor utility supplies with soaring tariffs wrecked havoc on the textile sector restricting its export to not more than $7 billion annually. He said the government is unjustified to force textile sector to pay bills for power thieves. With raw material like cotton or yarn, the annual textile exports stand at between $11 billion and $13 billion, he said.
The government's utility tariff plans give two messages to consumers -- either to pay bills for power thieves or just indulge in the theft. He urged the government to play its role against power thieves to end power shortage. "Some 35 per cent power loss comes through three ways: theft, line losses and pilferage," he added. He also resented soaring gas, power and water tariff which is unprecedented in entire history, saying gas was made expensive by 17 per cent and power by Rs 4 per unit. He said the government continues to bypass Ogra to set prices for key utilities.
Cotton is expected to continue losing market share this season. Cotton prices are substantially higher than polyester prices in China. And as per Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), the Cotlook A Index averaged 93 cents per pound in August, while polyester in China averaged 76 cents per pound. Despite the loss of market share, world cotton consumption is rising in absolute terms and is estimated at 23.7 million tons in 2013-14. However, world cotton production will be down 3.5 per cent from last season. US production alone is likely to fall by 25 per cent. Shipments from all major exporters are expected to fall, except from the CFA or franc zone in Africa, where producers are increasing production in 2013-14 and thus exports in response to higher cotton prices.
World trade in cotton is forecasted to decline by 1 million tons to less than 9 million, with this decline almost entirely accounted for by reduced imports into China. Falling mill use of cotton in China due to its cotton procurement policy - which is keeping cotton prices at levels above manmade fibers - is encouraging a significant shift in mill use to other countries.
American & Efird (A&E) one of world's leading manufacturers of sewing thread, embroidery thread and technical textiles for worldwide industrial markets, announced the release of its transparent 2012-2013 Sustainability Report. The report highlights the company's leadership and steadfast commitment to environmental sustainability and social responsibility.
"We're gratified that our newest sustainability report shows improved cumulative results from the impact of our efforts and investments," said John Eapen, Vice President Environmental, Health & Safety/Sustainability at American & Efird. "We remain especially proud of our zero liquid discharge plant in Perundari, India, the first in the thread industry, as well as our 50 per cent recycle/reuse facility in Dongguan, China. The water conserved by our facilities in India and China is equivalent to the daily water usage of nearly 7 million people within these countries."
A&E follows the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) standards for restricted substances. The AAFA's Restricted Substances List (RSL) provides guidelines for the use of chemicals and substances that are restricted or banned in the production of home textile, apparel and footwear products. The RSL is revised biannually and reflects international safety and environmental standards and restrictions.
One of the first thread manufacturers to adopt a global standard of measurement, A&E uses critical data to scrutinize its engineering protocols, equipment specifications and emerging technology, with the express purpose of upgrading systems and continuing its trend of reducing greenhouse gas emissions.
The company achieved its goal of 20 per cent reduction of greenhouse gas emissions from 2006. Through the use of engineering protocols and equipment specification and the adoption of emerging technologies and system upgrades, A&E reduced both power consumption and fuel-burning activities.
Ahmed Elbosaty, President, The International Cotton Association (ICA) has extended an invitation to Pakistan’s spinning sector to become ICA member to get benefits of international cotton trade via ICA. Elbosaty said that almost 80 per cent of global cotton trade is being done through ICA and APTMA members could get benefits and expertise of the ICA after becoming its member. In his first ever visit to Pakistan and APTMA, the ICA chief said that the association has changed its rules and regulations in order to allow spinners, weavers, retailers, etc, to become members so that the whole supply chain can benefit from ICA’s services and professional programs.
He mentioned that ICA’s arbitration is free of charge for members while non-member have to pay $15,000 as application fee for arbitration. He said that membership fee for individual (industry) is $2,000 and there would be no charges for services and training or becoming its arbitrator.
Yasin Siddik, Zonal Chairman, APTMA said that the ICA’s delegation’s visit to Pakistan would be helpful for Pakistan’s textile sector particularly spinning and such visits would bring the local and international stakeholders closer and improve mutual understandings. He said that by virtue of Pakistan’s status as fourth largest cotton producer and third largest cotton consumer, it should have at least two members from APTMA on ICA’s board of rules and regulations.
Turkey is looking to produce 2.38 million tons of cotton this season, which is an increase of 2.6 per cent compared to last year’s production. However, cotton production still falls short of the Turkish textile industry’s requirements. As per a statement by TZOB, chairman Shams Bayraktar said despite the increase in production of cotton compared to last year, it still falls short of the textile industry’s requirement in the country. In 2012, Turkey spent around $2.5 billion on imports of cotton and was the second largest importer of cotton in the world, after China. The expected cotton production for the current year still remains behind the production achieved in 2011. Cotton production decreased by 10.1 per cent to 2.32 million tons in 2012 compared to the production in 2011, which was 2.58 million tons.
During the cotton harvest period of 1995 to 2012, overall production of cotton saw an increase of 61.6 per cent, whereas production of ginned cotton increased by 56.4 per cent in the country. During the same period, cotton acreage fell from 7.56 million hectares to 4.9 million hectares, indicating a decline of 35.4 per cent.
Cotton is a strategic product for Turkey, as millions of temporary workers, employers, dealers, and transport employees in the country are dependent on cotton to make a living.
The International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) annual conference 2013 will be held from September 8 to 10, 2013, in Austria. The conference, with the theme ‘Rebalancing the Power between Manufacturing and Retail’, would focus on the changing relationship between producers and retailers in the difficult business environment faced by the global textile supply chain. It would include sessions on cotton and man-made fibers, e-commerce, Europe’s textile industry, the textile supply chain, technical textiles, non-wovens, the global textile machinery market and China’s textile industry.
The ITMF provides a forum for discussion on matters concerning textile companies. It allows textile trade associations to exchange information on matters affecting the textile industry, consistent with the trade regulation laws of the nations represented, and performs the functions of a liaison agent between textile industries and governments and intergovernmental organizations interested in the textile industry.
Representatives of several textile associations would be speaking at the conference. Some of them are: Terry Townsend, Executive Director, International Cotton Advisory Committee (US), Fritz Grobein, President, Bremen Cotton Exchange (Germany), Josue Gomes De Silva, President of ITMF (Brazil), Kai Hughes, MD, International Cotton Association (Germany) among others.
The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has proposed a minimum 50 per cent wage hike for garment workers. This decision has been arrived at considering inflation, price index, nutrition, transport and house rent.
Bangladesh had set up a panel to raise the minimum wage for garment workers following a factory collapse that claimed over 1,000 lives. The panel was made up of factory workers, factory owners and government representatives. In 2010, Bangladesh increased the minimum wage for garment workers by 80 per cent following worker protests. The first minimum wage board was constituted in 1994.
A revised minimum wage could help women working in harsh conditions who have few other places to go to. Garment workers have been agitating for better pay and working conditions in recent months since inflation has been high. These workers sew clothes that earn the country foreign currency, so they feel they deserve a better deal.
However, garment manufacturers are unhappy. They say that since a minimum wage was fixed as recently as 2010, it should be reviewed at a later date. They say they are suffering because of missed shipments and disrupted production due to strikes and that a minimum wage provision will hurt them.
www.bgmea.com.bd/
The apparel industry in Bangladesh needs to improve its image for guaranteeing the country's long-term prosperity. The collapse of Rana Plaza in Dhaka in April 2013 sent shockwaves through the textile and clothing industries. More than 1,100 lives were lost in the incident, and Bangladesh's reputation as a reliable low- cost location for clothing suffered a severe blow in the eyes of consumers and major brands.
Some western buyers have cancelled orders in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza collapse and placed them elsewhere. Moreover, a number of Bangladeshi factories have been blacklisted. There is a danger retailers and consumers will view cheap clothing from Bangladesh as coming at too high a cost in human terms, and that they will prefer other countries where costs are low but similar tragedies have not occurred -- such as Cambodia and Vietnam.
Sales in the US import market could be negatively affected following a decision by the US government to suspend Bangladesh's preferential duty treatment under the Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) scheme, and Bangladesh's preferential access to the EU could also be revoked if the government does not take necessary steps to significantly improve building safety standards and overall labor conditions in the country.
The government and major brands need to work together with suppliers to change the apparel industry into one in which there are safe factories, decent wages and respect for workers' rights. However, gains will only be sustainable if the added labor costs are absorbed by buyers as well as manufacturers.
Mexico wants China to do something about the subsidies China grants its textiles and garment manufacturing sector. In October 2012, Mexico had filed a complaint with the World Trade Organization, blaming the Chinese government for subsidizing its textile and garment manufacturing sector, resulting in unfair competition for the Mexican textile and clothing industry.
Meanwhile Mexico and China have agreed to increase trade and investment flows between the two countries and to support business missions to explore new areas of economic and commercial cooperation. Mexico feels that while it has dropped tariffs on a host of Chinese goods in recent years, the Chinese market remains for most purposes closed to Mexican goods. So Mexico wants to take a more aggressive stance with China. It hopes to gain greater access to Chinese markets, especially selling foodstuffs, manufactured goods, minerals and energy.
Mexico alleges Chinese manufacturers get export credits, have strong government support and enjoy the benefits of other unfair trade practices. The country wants a level playing field. China has a massive trade surplus with Mexico. Last year, it exported $57 billion worth of goods to Mexico, while Mexico only exported $6 billion to China.
Zimmer Austria has pioneered many global innovations and milestones in the textile printing industry for over more than a century. The company has established a strong presence across the globe as a highly reliable printing machinery manufacturer. The company has been working in the Indian market for many decades. Since 2012, it has had a tie-up with ATE for marketing and sale of digital printing machines in India. Zimmer sees a lot of potential in India for carpet printing machines. Thanks to the high duty structure for import of carpets, and also the increasing demand from hotels, offices and the home segment, the domestic demand for carpets is bound to grow exponentially.
Another area of opportunity is terry towels. India is one of the largest manufacturers and exporters of terry towels and Zimmer Austria has also developed a digital printing machine for terry towels. Zimmer Austria is actively working on reducing printing and ink costs, which are the most critical component of operational costs. It is currently testing inks made in India for the Indian market, similarly inks from China, Korea and Japan for their respective markets.
A world leader in printing technology, Zimmer Austria manufactures a complete range of machinery for textile and carpet finishing covering digital printing systems, flat screen and rotary screen printing, coating, steaming, washing, and drying at its plants in Austria.
www.zimmer-austria.com/en/company/about-us/index.html
The wool market in Australia continued with its auction this week and received excellent results. Amongst increasingly negative sentiment flowing from several Chinese suppliers, the market showed great resilience, albeit under a very small volume flowing through the system. As the sale progressed, all type and micron categories showed a confident resurgence and by the close of selling had added a few cents to their previous quotes. The skirting and carding markets continued to be at very attractive levels, with only the merino fleece sector looking for a spike upwards.
The small offering of spinners and best top makers at the Superfine (finer than 18.5micron) end of the selection continue to extract reasonable premiums out of the market, with some Italian, Indian and Chinese competition forcing a 50 to 60 cent price advantage over the micron indicator levels.
Crossbred and comeback types from 25 to 32 micron met with good demand and prices gained approximately 1 per cent for the series. After initial signs of a weakening in appetite for this sector, buyers rallied late in the week, with some new sales for prompt shipment keeping the interest and levels alive.
Coolcore LLC, a company based in Portsmouth, NH (USA) has been awarded the Hohenstein Quality Label ‘Innovative Technology - Cooling Power’ for its temperature regulating fibres. The Coolcore textiles exploit the body's own sweat, or added moisture, to achieve cooling. The sophisticated design means that the evaporation rate is regulated and, as a result, the cooling effect of ‘evaporative cooling’ is significantly higher than in conventional materials.
These effects were investigated and evaluated scientifically using the WATson Heat Loss Tester measurement device developed at the Hohenstein Institute. The heat dissipated from the skin under very different ambient conditions, from tropical heat to cool temperatures, as well as the heat loss caused by high wind speeds can be quantified using the device.
With the award, the scientists at the internationally recognized and independent Hohenstein Institute in Bönnigheim, Germany, have confirmed the cooling effect of the textiles, which are entirely chemical-free and do not use latent heat storage or phase change materials (PCMs) that exploit a change in phase (solid-liquid) to absorb and store heat.
The Hohenstein scientists are therefore able to look at the textiles' different fields of application and the associated climatic conditions in a very flexible way in their investigations. As a result, WATson is also ideally suited to guaranteeing compliance with quality standards in the course of ongoing production monitoring.
Alpaca fiber, both from Peru and Australia, is in high demand in the luxury apparel market across the world. This is mainly due to its natural range of colors and other environment-friendly qualities. The Peruvian Society of Registered Alpaca (SPAR) recently exported 7.1 ton of high quality alpaca fiber worth $1,25,000 to Italian fabric manufacturing company Fratelli Piacanza, known for manufacturing high-quality garments.
Australian alpaca fiber is extremely soft as compared to other fibers and therefore is suited for luxury next to skin wear garments. The vibrant range of natural colors of alpaca fibers provides it a clear product differentiation from other fibers as there is no need for use of harsh chemicals during the dyeing process. The fact that alpacas are often reared in welfare friendly conditions also carries a distinct advantage.
An alpaca is a smaller version of the animal llama. Alpacas graze at elevations of 10,000 to 14,000 ft on the Peruvian Andes. Their thick, sumptuous coats grow naturally in over 40 shades-from ivory to black, with all the greys and browns in between. Lighter shades of the fleece also take dyes beautifully. Alpacas are tended to by Andean herdsmen, who shear them every other year at the onset of the rainy season. The yield is about eight pounds of fleece per animal. Most of the fleece sheared from the first clip is classified as baby alpaca.
Australia’s leading wool company Woolmark has embarked on a plan to help Vietnam’s garment sector produce woolen products and increase the sector’s competitiveness and profits. Speaking at a press conference in Ha Noi, Jimmy Jackson, GM at Australian Wool Innovation, announced the plans of Australian support to Vietnamese apparel sector in developing wool garment production and its sales in global markets. Jackson said Vietnam has a well-established textile and garment manufacturing industry, skilled human resources, and infrastructure. He added that Vietnam is also the second-largest clothing exporter to the US and the third to Japan. However, the competitiveness of Vietnam’s garments is being affected due to the absence of wool spinning plant.
Jackson said Australia’s Merino fleece wool would be suitable for Vietnam’s garment sector and help it to raise its competitiveness. He informed that Woolmark was investing Au$ 240,000 (US$ 227,000) in a Vietnamese project, which began in 2012, and experts have already transferred weaving and fleece wool production technology to Vietnam under the project.
Bangladesh is about to finalize a deal to import cotton from Uzbekistan. This will ensure the supply of 200,000 tons of cotton annually for the Bangladesh textile industry. Uzbekistan is the sixth largest cotton producer in the world with 4.6 million bales produced in 2011. The two countries already exchanged the draft of the memorandum of understanding (MoU) which is now under scrutiny.
The draft MoU states that both parties will cooperate with each other for direct delivery of raw cotton from Uzbekistan to Bangladesh on a regular basis. The Uzbek state-run foreign trade companies namely Uzprommashimpex, Uzinterimpex and Uzmarkazimpeks will supply the cotton to any importer registered in Bangladesh.
About 35 per cent of the total cotton imports to Bangladesh is from Uzbekistan. Bangladesh and Uzbekistan had agreed for cooperation on various bilateral trade issues including cotton supply in a meeting of the Joint Working Commission for Trade and Economic Cooperation held in Tashkent in May 2012.
Bangladesh is also holding talks with India for getting 1.5 million bales of cotton a year. The country's yearly requirement of cotton is nearly 4.0 million bales, of which 0.12 million bales are produced locally. Rest of the demand -- nearly 98 per cent -- is being met by importing it from various countries.
Bangladesh’s historic state-owned Muslin Cotton Mills has reopened in Gazipur district after the ownership was transferred to Masers Reefat Garments Company. Production was stopped at the largest muslin cotton mill in Asia in 1990 for its failure to pay wages and salaries to its 2,885 workers amid serious mismanagement.
Set up on 100 acres of land on the bank of river Shitalakhya in Kaliganj in 1952, the mill once had three sections — spinning, looming and dyeing. Before its closure, the company used to make fabrics and yarn out of cotton. Speaking at a function to reopen the closed textile mill, Abdul Latif Siddiqui, Minister of Jute and Textiles, said after 24 years of closure the government took an initiative to reopen the historic cotton mill. The Muslin Cotton Mills would generate employment opportunities for 25,000 people in the Gazipur district.
A new regulatory policy for purchasing and storage of cotton in the domestic cotton market of China was discussed at the recently held 2013 China International Cotton Conference at Qingdao city of Shangdong province of China. Speaking at the conference, the deputy director of Chinese National Development and Reform Committee, Liu Xiaonan, to eliminate the current problems of the domestic cotton market of China, a national storage and purchasing policy will be formulated for the new cotton season beginning September 1, 2013.
Xiaonan pointed out that the current cotton-control policies focus on maintaining stability and continuity of the Chinese cotton market, and meet the needs of the domestic cotton textile enterprises. The current policy includes delivery and import policies for the national cotton reserve, which would last till the end of July, according to sources.
For the coming cotton season, new standards for purchasing and storage of cotton, along with valuation methods, will be implemented, which will be announced soon, Xiaonan said. He added that the proposed cotton purchasing and storage policy is an attempt to improvise on the previous ones, and the regulatory body is open to suggestions.
Chinese textile manufacturers are competing to secure import quotas for well-priced and high quality cotton, as the government pressures them to use more expensive lower quality domestic supplies. The spread between Chinese and imported cotton has hit China's textile industry hard. Its one major reason Chinese manufacturers are becoming much less competitive in the global market.
In January, the Chinese government imposed a 3:1 rule on manufacturers. By which they had to use three tons of Chinese cotton to secure quotas to buy one ton of imported cotton. The quality of Chinese cotton is much lower than that of imported cotton, which generates more losses in production.
The goal is to reduce the size of the eight million tons of stocks the Chinese government has bought to assure sufficient local supplies. The policy is already weakening the price of China-made cotton, but with farmers demanding high prices, it is still higher than foreign cotton.
The International Cotton Advisory Committee has warned cotton prices are expected to rise in the 2013-14 season, despite cotton stocks heading towards a new high. The inter-governmental group blamed stockpiling by the Chinese government, and the expected tightening of stocks outside of China.
Hong Kong will host Mega Show Part 1 form October 20-23, 2013 and Mega Show Part 2 from October, 27-29, 2013. These two influential trade shows are the main sourcing focus for gifts, housewares, toys, premiums and stationery in Hong Kong during the annual autumn buying season and must-attend events in the Southern China’s sourcing calendar.
Over 4000 worldwide suppliers from 36 countries will be participating and presenting new ranges and products to worldwide importers, distributors, wholesalers and trade buyers. Both new and established suppliers from Australia, Austria, Bangladesh, Belgium, Cambodia, Canada, Mainland China, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Guatemala, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Latvia, Macau, Malaysia, Mexico, will be participating in the show.
Mega Show Part 1 will present seven major product sectors, gifts, housewares and home decor, Christmas, festive and seasonal, toys and games and baby and child, glassware trends, gift-wrap and packaging, along with Asia and international focus which includes international suppliers presenting a diverse selection of gifts and home wares.
Mega Show Part 2 with exhibitors from 11 countries will present four major product sectors, gifts, home decor and outdoor living, home textiles and house wares, plus Asian stationery with over 200 companies displaying the best of Asian print, pen and paper, as well as office and school supplies.
Over 57,000 buyers attended the shows in 2012, with the growing attendance of buying power from emerging markets. The two shows take place annually at the downtown Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre in Wanchai, Hong Kong.
A dangerous flammable fabric is being imported into the US that fails to meet basic fire standards. Put a lighter’s flame to the fabric and it ignites like a sparkler, dripping molten chemicals that burn into the surface of anything that its drips on. Normal polyester when held to a lighter will roll back on itself and when cooled the polyester becomes quite hard like a plastic.
The fabric is labeled as 100 per cent polyester, although silver-nano particles can be seen with the naked eye. Silver particles generally provide anti-microbial properties. Oddly, the test fabric has been marketed as stain-resistant instead of anti-microbial. The silver particles are not embedded and when ignited, the silver becomes airborne. The nano terminology that was used on the labeling to describe the finishing is totally misleading.
The label doesn’t say what abrasion material was used; cotton or wire, and how many pounds of pressure were used. In the early ’90s a synthetic georgette fabric was banned from import due to its high flammability. There are outdoor performance products which are labeled as containing CoolMax, a moisture wicking fabric developed by DuPont in 1986. However, what CoolMax actually is anyone’s guess.
The National Council of Textile Organizations, a Washington-based trade group that merged with two other textile organizations in March, has a new President. Auggie Tantillo, who for many years was the head of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, was named the new NCTO president. He replaces Cass Johnson, a University of California, Los Angeles alumni who had been NCTO president since the organization was formed in 2004.
“We wish Cass well in his future endeavours, and look forward to working with Auggie in his new role,” said Scott Elmore, spokesperson for the American Apparel & Footwear Association, a trade organization headquartered in Arlington, VA.
Prior to AMTAC, Tantillo worked under the George W Bush administration as deputy assistant secretary for textiles and apparel in the Commerce Department. He was also chief of staff for former U.S. Sen. Strom Thurmond of South Carolina. Tantillo had been a NCTO consultant after AMTAC was dissolved.
“We are incredibly pleased to welcome Auggie’s leadership and many years of experience to NCTO at such an important juncture of the Trans-Pacific Partnership negotiations,” Bill Jasper, NCTO’s Chairman and Chief Executive and Chairman of Unifi Inc., a North Carolina yarn maker said in a statement. “In his new role as President, Auggie will continue NCTO’s unparalleled commitment to fighting on behalf of American textile manufacturing and jobs at home and abroad.”
AMTAC and the National Textile Association merged with NCTO earlier this year to give the three trade groups more lobbying power and a stronger voice when addressing textile and manufacturing issues before Congress and the Obama administration.
The new Thies iMaster F series from German Thies GmbH is destined particularly for dyeing high pile fabrics, such as terry toweling. The new F series is the latest innovation for the highly successful iMaster range of dyeing machines. It features a large transport winch inside the dyeing kier to be processed with significantly reduced elongation. It results in improved stability, perfect fabric condition and appearance, and ensures economic and environment-friendly operation with advanced automation at low liquor levels, as low as 1:4 for cotton.
The new models are available with capacities of between 250 kg to 400 kg per chamber. The iMaster F series can be delivered with up to maximum eight tubes for the 250 kg/tube, and six tubes for the 400 kg version. They are also able to process a wide range of different articles.
The new machine is equipped with a 100 per cent stock tank, a dosing tank and delivery system for dry salt and is particularly optimized for the production of terry articles. The automatic self-cleaning filter system always helps to achieve every time the same dyeing and treatment conditions. Manual interventions for cleaning are reduced and productivity is increased. Rinse, wash and dye baths are measured online, continuously analyzed and displayed graphically.
The National Tariff Commission (NTC) of Pakistan has decided not to impose anti-dumping duty on import of Polyester Staple Fiber (PSF) from China. The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) had been lobbying for it for a long time. The APTMA feels not imposing duty will have a positive impact on textile imports and will provide a long-term advantage to the textile industry, as polyester use is bound to increase. PSF is an important industrial material. However, the provisional anti-dumping duty continued for four months.
After value-addition on imported fibers, textile products are exported. Pakistan needs to import PSF in view of the acute domestic production shortfall of PSF. APTMA says imposition of anti-dumping duty operates against international competitiveness of Pakistan textile products predominantly meant for export.
Imposition of anti-dumping duty on industrial raw material besides making imports costlier have the effect of raising domestic raw material prices to a level where they become unviable for the textile industry. However, the domestic PSF industry was vociferous in pleading for imposition of anti-dumping duty as it gives the industry an amount of protection by which it raises domestic prices.
All Pakistan Textile Mills Association is the premier national trade association of textile spinning, weaving, and composite mills representing the organized sector in Pakistan. It represents 396 textile mills, out of which 315 are spinning, 44 weaving and 37 composite units.
Shanghai will host Planet Textiles Conference on October, 22, 2013. Jointly organized by Ecotextile News and Messe Frankfurt, Planet Textiles tackles the crucial issue of sustainability in the global textile sector. Now in its fifth year, Planet Textiles is Asia's premiere annual event dedicated to reducing the impact of textiles on the environment.
The head of sustainability at leading Chinese textile mill Jiangsu Lianfa will give a real-world example of environmental and cost savings for a Chinese textile mill through implementation of simple environmental-led steps. Previous attendees at Planet Textiles include: senior executives from Nike, H&M, Wal-Mart, Levi Strauss, Puma, VF Corp, Adidas, H&M, Marks & Spencer, Esprit, Pacific Textiles and Warnaco, to name a few.
Planet Textiles will take place within the same venue as Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Asia’s leading sourcing exhibition, which attracts more than 60,000 visitors. This year, the link between Planet Textiles and Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics will be strengthened through an innovative new “all about sustainability” zone. This new area of the show will feature three sections: exhibitors: sustainable fabrics producers, and dye and chemical companies; educational Zone: sustainability testing certifiers, trade associations, NGOs and eco publications; display area: recycled fabrics, products, solutions and initiatives.
A New Zealand-based Woolyarns produces an exclusive range of luxury yarn brand for both textile manufacturing and hand knitting markets internationally. It is Woolyarns’ Zealana hand knitting yarn. Zealana uses luxuriously soft and lightweight blended Brushtail possum fiber. It is spun into beautiful yarn that is sought after by handknitters.
Brushtail possum fiber is super soft and prized for its lightweight warmth and breathability. Possum for Zealana yarn is collected from a small number of carefully selected regions, only at certain times of the year. It is then blended with the finest merino or cashmere to guarantee softness and consistency in this high end luxury yarn. Woolyarns uses 40 to 50 tons of possum fiber annually across its product range. This is equivalent to the fiber from more than one million possums.
Woolyarns was established 68 years ago. For several decades, it provided yarns only for commercial purposes. In the early 1990’s, it pioneered the use of possum fiber mixed with wool. In 2006, Woolyarns released Zealana, its first hand knitting and crochet yarns.
Woolyarns offers a select niche range of bespoke yarns, in addition to its classic range. Luxury yarn brands in Woolyarns’ portfolio of bespoke yarns are Zealana (hand knitting), Perino (knitwear, apparel, hosiery yarns), INZpire (carpet yarns) and Callibra (sourced yarns).
As financial results reporting season gains momentum, investors in textile sector are looking to splendid growth in profitability, which would probably match the financial year 2013 performance. Profitability of textile (sample firms) scaled four-fold to Rs 22.8 billion in three-quarters of financial year 2013 (9MFY13) as against Rs 4.4 billion in the same period last year.
“Last fiscal year, FY-’13, was one of the better years for Pakistan textile sector in terms of sales and profits which was also reflected in more than 100 per cent price performance of our sample listed textile firms with market capitalization of over Rs 25 million,” says Zeeshan Afzal of Topline Securities.
Though shortage of power remained the perennial problem, especially in winter, the textile companies’ jump in profits by 400 per cent was mainly attributed to stable cotton prices and strong regional demand.
Moreover, continuous depreciation of rupee against the dollar and cheaper financing also contributed to hefty earnings growth. In FY-’13, Pakistan exported $13bn worth textile products, up by 5.9 per cent in dollar terms but represented improvement by 14.7 per cent in local currency due to the drop in value of the rupee.
The growth in exports was attributed mainly to imposition of cotton floor price in China that encouraged Chinese textile manufacturers to import more yarn and grey cloth instead of converting yarn into costly local cotton. As a result, Pakistan’s yarn and grey cloth exports increased by 24 per cent and 10 per cent to $2.2billion and $2.7 billion, respectively, in FY-’13. The latest results of textile sector are expected to show continuous growth in export for FY-’14 on the back of sustained textile demand from China and substantial depreciation in local currency.
However, analysts caution that much would depend upon international cotton prices, though major volatility was unlikely to be seen in local cotton prices in FY-’14. The encouragement was based on estimates of Cotton Crop Assessment Committee (CCAC) which estimated Pakistan’s cotton production at 13.25 million bales in FY-’14, slightly higher over the 13.0 million bales produced by the country in FY-’13.
Exports and profits of the sector could also improve due to expected Generalised System of Preferences (GSP Plus) status from EU, as lower import duties would provide Pakistan a competitive edge in international markets. “Further operating environment of the textile sector may see further improvement in low interest rate scenario,” analysts said, the caveat, however, being the all-important improvement in energy situation.
The 2013 Théophile Legrand International Prize for Textile Innovation will be awarded on October 5 at ValJoly Eppe-Sauvage resort. The Théophile Legrand Foundation – Institut de France was created in 2007 by Christian Cambier, a descendant of Théophile Legrand. Théophile Legrand is the founder of the wool industry in Fourmies, France.
Since 2009, two Théophile Legrand awards are granted annually. With a value of €18,000, these two awards celebrate two distinguished researchers and/or students who have created original material, fiber or fabric in the field of technical textiles; or an innovative textile design and/or a new textile industrial production technique.
The goal is to foster innovation, research, and imagination by showcasing emerging technical and industrial creations. In 2009, the prize was awarded to Aurélie Cayla for inventing a smart textile that senses specific temperatures. In 2011 Munir Ashraf won it for creating a self-cleaning and antibacterial textile. Last year, Pierre-Alexandre won the prize for a decontaminating textile to treat air and water.
An innovative textile design project can be submitted for consideration providing the entrant or team of researchers is able to prove that the project, product and the invention of newly used elements are their own work. Selection criteria are the same for inventors of new textile fabrics as well as innovators of new processes of textile production. All entrants are judged on their creativity, originality, innovation to the field and the project’s ability to be industrially reproduced.
The US has decided to suspend the payment of $ 147 million it annually makes to Brazilian cotton farmers. The payment to Brazilian Cotton Farmers Fund is made to prevent the South American country from legally retaliating against unrelated US imports.
The US lost a case brought by Brazil in 2002 before the World Trade Organization. Brazil was joined by sub-Saharan cotton farming countries in successfully claiming that American cotton subsidies suppressed prices and hurt their impoverished farmers.
A World Trade Organization arbitration panel ultimately authorized Brazil to raise $591 million a year in retaliatory tariffs against US imports, and Brazil announced in late 2009 that it planned to target 222 categories of goods, including textiles, acetaminophen and certain intellectual property. That's when Congress stepped in and authorized the $147.3 million annual payments, in effect subsidizing the Brazilian cotton industry.
In fact, most US taxpayers will be stunned to know their country is making such a hefty payment to foreign farmers. Some people say Federal farm subsidies are bad fiscal, environmental and agricultural policy; bad water, energy and health policy; and bad foreign policy. They object to cotton subsidies, which divert huge money every year to fewer than 20,000 planters who tend to use inordinate amounts of water, energy and pesticides.
The Council of Textile and Fashion Industries of Australia (TFIA) has outlined a series of priority areas to drive up jobs ahead of Australian elections. TFIA is calling on the government to support the textile, clothing and footwear industry in Australia. TFIA wants the government to give priority in procuring from Australian manufacturers than from international suppliers.
It is looking for an improved strategy in the development of creative design, trade and artisan skills, with further innovative education programs to meet the evolving demand of the industry towards digital production.
TFIA wants the government to support strategy that promotes opportunities for enterprises in the textile clothing and footwear industry of Australia. The body is calling for a reduction of taxes, which will allow it to be globally competitive. The labor body is seeking a reduction in red tape and a more innovative approach to sustainability. It wants clearer country of origin and safety labeling as it believes no-one is taking responsibility for the poor labeling and unsafe products being imported into Australia.
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) has been restricted only to Brazil, India, Pakistan and Mali. This year BCI gained the adhesion of producers from China, Turkey and Mozambique and, by 2015, the United States and Australia will also join the group. The movement establishes cotton cultivation with less environmental impact as well as more financial and social gains for the producer. BCI began only three years ago and so far it has had a three per cent share in the total production of sustainable cotton. In the next two years, BCI cotton is expected to reach 2.6 million tons produced by one million licensed producers. By 2020, the goal is to reach 30 per cent of the global cotton production, which would involve five million producers and potentially benefit 20 million people.
BCI’s expansion strategy for 2013 to 2015 builds not only on the entry of more producers, but also on expanding industry and retailer membership, thus improving the whole chain. The idea is that BCI should be the mainstream cotton, instead of operating in a niche market targeting consumers aware of sustainability issues. BCI determines that farmers use less water and pesticides, and respect crop rotation to improve soil fertility. Unlike other sustainability certification stamps, BCI declares itself technologically neutral – in other words, genetically modified cotton crops are accepted.
In India the use of pesticides has fallen 40 per cent, the use of water has fallen 20 per cent and productivity has increased 20 per cent, according to BCI.
The CIFF Future Fabrics fair and conference, planned for this September as a platform for sustainable and innovative textiles for the fashion and furniture industry, has been postponed because of a lack of confirmed exhibitors.
The event was due to take place in Copenhagen, at conference centre Bella Center, on September 8-10, 2013, but has now been postponed until 2014. The new fabric exhibition was also due to host accompanying conference ‘Future Fabrics Expo’, organized by The Sustainable Angle, which aimed to showcase innovative textiles, and those with a lower environmental impact, to designers, buyers and organizations.
The next Future Fabrics Expo 2013 will now take place in London later this year. Tanjia Davoil, exhibition manager from Future Fabrics, said, "Bella Center has tried to lift the bar, despite the fact that it is an inevitable direction for an industry that is among the most polluting in the world, the timing has just not been right. Exhibitors need more time and we are looking forward to return with Future Fabrics’ vision of pushing the fashion and textile industry in a more sustainable direction in the future." Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) will continue to host its Spring-Summer 2014 fashion fair, to be held August 8-11 2013.
Eurostat the Statistical Office of the EU and EURATEX the European Clothing and Textile Federation has come up with the latest key figures (2012) for the European textile and clothing industries. Turnover of textiles at factory level dropped by 3.5 per cent or from EUR 104.8 billion to EUR 101.2 billion, and clothing decreased by 4.9 per cent or from EUR 101.9 billion to 96.9 billion. However, machinery and equipments added 1.3 per cent, or from EUR 113.9 billion to EUR 115.3 billion.
Mill consumption of fibres (Western Europe, CEEC and Turkey) is estimated at 4766 million t (4716 million t). In the EU27 the production index for manmade fibres stood at 87.0 points, down from 94.0 points, textile at 91.7 points (97.4 points) and clothing at 88.9 points (94.5 points). The production price index in EUR for manmade fibres settled at 106.8 points (110.9 points), textiles 107.8 points (106.2 points) and clothing 103.7 per cent (102.1 points).
Household consumption of textiles and clothing is estimated at EUR 482.7 billion (EUR 481.6 billion), manmade fibres EUR 9.6 billion (10.1 billion), textiles EUR 80.6 billion (83.7 billion) and clothing EUR 75.1 billion (EUR 77.4 billion). The grand total of all sectors amount to EUR 165.3 (EUR 171.2) billion.
The volume of investments in the manmade fibres sector amounted to EUR 0.25 billion (EUR 0.3 billion), in textiles to EUR 2.8 billion (EUR 3.0 billion) and in the clothing area EUR 1.9 billion (EUR 1.9 billion). Thus the grand total of all sectors amounted to EUR 5.0 billion (EUR 5.2 billion).
The manmade fibre sector employed in 78 (83) companies 21,000 (23,000) persons, textiles in 53,887 (55383) companies 6,74,000 (6,93,000) and clothing in 1,27,457 (1,31,399) companies 10,85,000 (11,19,000) persons. Thus the total number of companies amounted to 1,81,423 (1,86,865) and total employment to 17,80,000 (1,834,000).
Japan’s import of cotton yarn has declined by 2.8 per cent year-on-year to 140,784 bales during the first half of 2013. This was revealed from data by Japan Spinners’ Association. However, the data reveals Japan’s imports of combed yarn grew by a sharp 18.4 per cent to 69,562 bales from January to June.
Its cotton yarn imports from India shot up by 19.8 per cent year-on-year to 22,141 bales during the period under review, which included 18,973 bales of combed yarn, showing a rise of 17.6 per cent year-on-year.
Japan’s cotton yarn imports from Indonesia also surged to 55,093 bales during the six-month period, registering a growth of 19.2 per cent year-on-year. However, Japan’s cotton yarn imports from Pakistan dropped by a significant 41.3 per cent to 30,478 bales during the same period, according to the data.
Spanish company Jeanologia, a world leader in the development of sustainable technologies for finishing garments, and its partner in China, Prosperity Textile, have launched a sustainable technology Demo Centre in Guangzhou (China). The aim is to transform the Chinese textile industry into a sustainable and environmentally friendly one. It is being conceived as a referral centre in Asia for demonstration and training, specialized in sustainable technologies, such as laser and ozone that allows automation of the production process by reducing production costs while saving water, energy and chemicals and avoiding unhealthy processes of operators.
Jeanologia’s President, Enrique Silla, has expressed his commitment to ethical and responsible industry with the use of technologies that respect the environment and health of workers and has underlined that these technologies “are the future of the textile industry”.
On Demo Centre, Jeanologia’s President says that it will be an example of a factory of the future and will keep on training Chinese companies that want to apply these new technologies. “In this line highlighted that Jeanologia and Prosperity are aware that the industry is changing and we not only need to invest in machinery and technology, but it is necessary to train people in the new methods.”
He has forecasts that the production of jeans will not move from China to Bangladesh or Cambodia, but it will just change. "In just five years, China will remain the world's leading producer of jeans but this time thanks to the efficiency of sustainable technologies like laser treatments or the use of ozone instead of water" he said.
In his opinion "The times of shifting production from one country to another seeking lower labor costs are over. We are entering an era of technological efficiency. In a few years, no pants will be manufactured without the use of green technologies, China has the opportunity to transform their industry”.
Mexico wants China to do something about the subsidies China grants its textiles and garment manufacturing sector. In October 2012, Mexico had filed a complaint with the World Trade Organization, blaming the Chinese government for subsidizing its textile and garment manufacturing sector, resulting in unfair competition for the Mexican textile and clothing industry.
Meanwhile Mexico and China have agreed to increase trade and investment flows between the two countries and to support business missions to explore new areas of economic and commercial cooperation. Mexico feels that while it has dropped tariffs on a host of Chinese goods in recent years, the Chinese market remains for most purposes closed to Mexican goods. So Mexico wants to take a more aggressive stance with China. It hopes to gain greater access to Chinese markets, especially selling foodstuffs, manufactured goods, minerals and energy.
Mexico alleges Chinese manufacturers get export credits, have strong government support and enjoy the benefits of other unfair trade practices. The country wants a level playing field. China has a massive trade surplus with Mexico. Last year, it exported $57 billion worth of goods to Mexico, while Mexico only exported $6 billion to China.
Turkey’s textiles exports, excluding apparels, has seen an increase if 6.6 per cent in the first six months of 2013 compared to the corresponding period of last year.Turkish firms exported $4.164 billion worth of textiles to other countries during January to June 2013, accounting for 5.6 per cent of total Turkish exports.
Segment-wise, woven fabric exports earned $1.436 billion, followed by knitted fabric which fetched $845.6 million. Yarn exports from Turkey were worth $838.5 million, while fiber exports amounted to $307.8 million from January to June 2013. Exports to the EU accounted for 45 per cent of all Turkish textile exports during the six-month period.
Turkish textile exports rose to $7.75 billion in 2012 from $7.7 billion in 2011. Turkey exported textiles worth $542.2 million to Russia, $418.2 million to Italy, and $213.8 million to Germany during the first quarter of 2013.
With manufacturing costs rising in China, and the recent mishaps in Bangladesh India seems to have a better future as a world sourcing hub. However, Harry van Dalfsen, President IAF feels India still has a long way to go. As Bangladesh’s extremely low labour costs play a role and China’s one stop shop ease of doing business still scores. However, the root causes are diverse and complex.
Further talking about how Europe and the US are looking at current dynamic apparel sourcing scenario apparel from Asia Dalfsen says “We have coined the term '2nd phase post MFA sourcing’. That is, after the disappearance of quota, China has rapidly attained its current dominance in apparel production, but now, in view of rising costs and sluggish markets, especially in the west, again a period of relatively big chance in sourcing patterns is taking place. There are some real movements out of China, especially into Bangladesh and some smaller moves into location closer by the markets (such as Turkey for Europe) and also brands and retailers are actively looking in places they weren’t before (Birma, Africa).”
Ever evolving China
Talking about how China’s role has changed Dalfsen, says, “Remember that only 30 years ago, its role on the world scene was negligible. Then it became the production powerhouse and now as the retail market for fashion is fast becoming more mature.” According to Dalfsen, entering the Chinese market as a European brand for instance is easier said than done. But also vice versa, building a brand in China and selling in the US, EU, India, ASEANor other markets is a huge challenge.
Dalfsen feels Europe especially many medium sized brands (about € 50 million turnover on average) that are strong in their home markets still have to start exporting to another continent such as to China. However, now it has been observed that department stores and multi-brand stores from China are actively travelling to Europe and the US to find good medium sized brands.
IAF's role as a manufacturers' federation
Bangladesh has emerged as the second largest country for sourcing but recent events there forced European and US brands to rethink. Explaining this further Dalfsen opines, “The European Accord and the US Alliance on worker safety in Bangladesh have quickly allowed for firms to stay in Bangladesh while at the same time communicating that they are actively participating in the prevention of these tragedies. So I think we will not see a big drop in exports of apparel from Bangladesh.”
While IAF cannot and legally may not get involved in pricing, Dalfsen feels that the focus in global responsibility is shifting from compliance to real improvements. These improvements must be common investments occurring in the entire supply chain. ”On the other hand, few other industries are so fragmented and competitive and this is of course reflected in fights for margin within the supply chain,” he sums up.
The All-Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) would launch a new initiative from January 1, 2014, to improve the image of Pakistan’s textiles around the world. The aim is to double the industry’s exports to $26 billion over the next three to four years in the wake of free market access from the European Union. APTMA has decided to adopt the triple bottom line concept –a corporate social responsibility strategy that focuses on people, planet and profits – as a part of its social corporate responsibility program to launch a soft image of Pakistan globally.
APTMA is engaging all its members to ensure the welfare of its workers including health, safety and education of their children. It has already established a sustainability cell that ensures efficient use of energy and conservation of water. Mills are being asked to ensure that they treat and conserve water to protect the environment.
In time APTMA will encourage the entire textile chain to adopt the triple bottom line concept. There would be textile shows in the United States and the European Union to promote Pakistani textile products and a soft image of the country.
For the first time in three years, textile mill owners have seen their concerns about supply of power and energy adequately addressed and 90 per cent of the textile mills are operating at full capacity.
Pakistan’s export of textile and clothing products witnessed a double digit growth in the first month of the current fiscal year compared to a year ago. Exports witnessed a double digit growth because of an increase in exports to European markets owing to preferential market access on selected products. The European Union preferential package on import of 75 items has been in operation since December 2012.
Export of textile and clothing surged to $1.136 billion in July 2013 from $1.090 billion in the corresponding month last year. Textile and clothing products, which witnessed a negative growth, are cotton carded and yarn other than cotton yarn in July 2013 over the same month last year.
However, growth in exports in July was mainly driven by knitwear, bed wear, towels and readymade garments, which are valued-added products. Growth in yarn and fabric exports was mainly because of improved energy supply. The full capacity utilisation of production caused growth in the export of home textiles — towels and bed wear as well.
Raw cotton exports from Pakistan have slumped in quantity terms and value terms. But this fall in raw cotton exports is seen as a boon. Reduced exports would also help in stabilizing cotton prices at home which are higher than international prices. The Pakistani textile industry each year falls short of around three million bales of cotton against its total demand for around 16 million bales.
At least 2,000 garment factories in Bangladesh will be inspected in the month of September. The government-led National Tripartite Action Plan on Building and Fire Safety, which is working with employers and worker groups and the International Labour Organization (ILO), say teams led by the Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology (BUET) will undertake the assessments. There are also plans to set out a national standard for fire safety and structural assessments as a benchmark for all audits to meet. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has pledged to share documents related to factory design and layout with the Committee, which will also share the national standards with all relevant stakeholders at a workshop on September, 7.
The National Tripartite Committee was set up in response to the fire at Tazreen Fashion last November and the collapse of the Rana Plaza building in April which led to the loss of more than 1,200 lives. There are also concerns that Bangladesh's Ministry of Labor is struggling to recruit the 200 factory inspectors it requires. The ILO reveals just four inspectors have been recruited so far, with another 72 due to be on board by October. The recruitment process for another 128 inspectors will begin in November.
Separate schemes are also underway by the North American Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety with its Bangladesh Worker Safety Initiative, and the European Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh - which between them intend to examine at least 1,500 factories.
They will also offer funds and assistance with remedial action including the relocation and rebuilding of unsafe factories and have set a timeframe to see all their supplier factories inspected within the next nine months to one-year.
Punjab’s chief minister Muhammad Shahbaz Sharif has announced special incentives for local and foreign investors in the garments industrial zone. Issuing instructions for setting up a committee for identifying the site for the establishment of Punjab China Industrial Zone, the CM has directed that the committee should present its report within seven days after consulting all stakeholders so that the project could be initiated without any delay. The committee will comprise senior member board of revenue, secretary industries and representatives of Punjab Industrial Estate Development and Management Company.
Prominent industrialists associated with the garments sector applauded Sharif’s steps taken for the development of garments industry and said that due to the personal interest taken by the chief minister not only garments industry would make rapid progress but huge foreign exchange would also be earned.
The chief minister said that setting up of Punjab China Garments Industrial Zone on a large piece of land near motorway should be considered while other locations for this purpose should also be identified and a report be submitted within seven days. The minister also issued instructions for constituting a working group to remove hurdles in the establishment of the industrial zone and directed that the working group should immediately formulate its recommendations so that the concerned institutions could be contacted for removing impediments. He said that working group should meet on weekly basis and propose steps expeditiously in this regard.
Taiwanese companies that attended a fashion trade exhibition in Las Vegas are expected to obtain about $5 million worth of orders, the Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF) said. As per TTF, 16 textile exporters from Taiwan displayed readymade clothing, hats, socks and other accessories to potential foreign buyers at the Las Vegas Magic Show 2013 from August 18-21, a private sector group. High performance fabric supplier AGT International, ladies woven apparel maker Caribbean Industrial, and sports socks exporter Danken Enterprise were among the exhibitors at the Taiwan pavilion, the group said.
Under the theme ‘Think Taiwan for Textiles,’ the pavilion attracted many international brands such as Adidas, bebe, Marubeni America Corp, JLux Concepts, and Beachbody. These international brands held discussions with the Taiwanese companies and are likely to place at least S$5 million worth of orders for Taiwan-made products, the TTF said.
Yang Hsiao-chin, a section chief at the TTF said the federation is determined to offer local manufacturers the necessary assistance to set up a distribution network in US cities, particularly in Los Angeles as it is a gateway to the huge New York market and Latin America. The TTF is planning to hold similar trade shows and meetings in Indonesia and Vietnam in early November in a bid to help local exporters penetrate the global market, said Chin.
A resurgence demand from China for cotton yarn has boosted India’s export, which has gone up by 55 per cent in the first four months of the current financial year. If the trend continues, cotton yarn exports will likely hit a new record this year.
“If the trend continues, cotton yarn exports would beat all previous expectations to set an all time record this year,” says D K Nair, Secretary General, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry. Reports reveal the Cotton Yarn Advisory Board has projected a marginal 14.2 per cent increase to 1,150 million kg in cotton yarn exports from India this financial year. But actual exports could be even higher. Total cotton yarn production this year is estimated at 4,000 million kg. “The substantial increase in exports, however, has not affected domestic supply to mills at all. Domestic mills are operating smoothly with adequate capacity,” said Nair.
Further the exponential growth in cotton yarn shipment has lowered the prospects of cotton exports as Chinese importers find purchase of fibre cost effective. Another factor which helped exports is the record depreciation in the rupee against the dollar. Exporters have rushed to sign a pact with importers at the current exchange rate and lock in till exports are executed. Also, cotton prices have jumped 11.79 per cent to trade at Rs 13,329 a quintal mid August against Rs 11,923 a quintal a month ago.
Intertek, a leading provider of quality and safety services to a wide range of industries around the world, has opened a new apparel and textiles testing laboratory in Hanoi to support the growing textile and garment industry in the northern Vietnam. The new facility occupies more than 6,000 sq. ft. and is fully equipped with state-of-the-art equipment combined with highly qualified engineers and chemists to provide reliable quality and safety solutions. The new lab performs textile testing for dimensional stability, colour fastness and seam strength, among others. The lab also supports full testing capabilities to US Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) requirements and restricted substances regulations.
Thanh Nam Nguyen, General Manager for Softlines, Hardlines and Toys business lines, said, “The addition of the Hanoi facility aligns with Intertek’s continuous effort to provide a local presence for our customers, wherever their business operations are located. This provides a distinct competitive advantage in an industry where getting safe and high-quality products to market is imperative for success.”
The Hanoi apparel testing laboratory is the most recent addition to Intertek’s global network of 45 textile and footwear laboratories that serve fabric, apparel, fashion accessory, home textile and footwear retailers, brands and manufacturers. In addition to testing, Intertek offers the following services for textile, footwear and apparel customers: chemical management, inspections, certification, auditing, safety and compliance training, outsourcing and advisory, quality assurance and risk management.
Kuruwita Textile Mills, a unit of Sri Lanka's Brandix Apparel group reported exports to Bangladesh rose in June 2013 quarter. However, the company’s looses increased amid increasing costs. The firm lost Rs 211 million in the quarter up 355 per cent from a year ago period. It reported losses of Rs 8.46 per share in accounts filed with the Colombo Stock Exchange.
Kuruwita Textiles said revenues rose 11 per cent to Rs 1.82 billion in the June quarter, but expenses rose at a faster rate at 23 per cent to Rs 1.98 billion, a gross loss of Rs 157 million against a profit of Rs 44.7 million a year earlier. Exports to Bangladesh had grown to 41 per cent of sales in the June quarter up from 31 per cent last year. "However, it has to be noted that the Bangladeshi orders carry comparatively lower margins due to the lower average selling prices partly due to the effects of the off season for the company’s product range," Chairman Aslam Omar told shareholders.
He said raw material costs were 15 per cent higher than last year but they could not be passed on fully with higher selling prices. Electricity costs were also higher. "The management has been actively looking at mitigating these adverse impacts and is currently reviewing alternatives," Omar said without elaborating.
Major textile manufacturers in Japan have been entering the field of clothing design and manufacturing, aiming to increase profitability through business expansion by supplying products to general merchandisers and boutiques, where they are sold under private labels. In mid-June, Osaka-based Teijin Frontier held a spring/summer fashion preview for retailers, where a wide range of products, including women’s casual wear and men’s suits, were on display. In addition to showing off fabrics with deodorant, cooling, stretch and other features, the company highlighted the cutting-edge technologies used to make their products, such as a special fibre that gives garments a unique texture.
Toray Industries embarked on full-fledged manufacturing of finished apparel around 2006 and became a textile industry pioneer for its entry into a downstream business. The expansion trend among major textile makers has been partly inspired by Uniqlo’s business model. Uniqlo has grown into a self-styled manufacturing retailer, handling all aspects of production from planning to manufacturing and selling. Meanwhile the company has avoided price competition by launching products with innovative features such as heat-tech, a line of heat-generating underwear.
With Unitika considering producing kids’ clothes and Daiwabo Holdings eyeing the casual wear market, textile makers are expected to continue making waves in the apparel business.
Leading textile machinery manufacturer Karl Mayer will present its latest tricot and raschel machines and new ideas for manufacturing innovative sportswear and outerwear fabrics at Obertshausen on September 25 at its open house event. For the company’s Business Unit Warp Knitting the event will take place at Karl Mayer’s own Development Centre. Visitors will have the opportunity to see the latest machines developed by the company, including a tricot machine type TM 4 EL, the Multibar Jacquardtronic Lace MJ 42/1B and the high-performance tricot machine HKS 4-M EL.
Textile machinery factory Karl Mayer was set up in 1937. A family company, it has grown into world’s number one in the field of warp knitting technology. Recently at Techtextil in Frankfurt, the company put the spotlight on 3D textiles, showcasing room elements made from warp-knitted, sound-absorbing spacer textiles. The stable weft-inserted structures have already been used in India as geotextiles and coating/backing substrates.
The reinforcing textiles made on Karl Mayer’s high-performance multiaxial machines are being employed for different applications in the composites sector.
www.karlmayer.de/
Textile and apparel manufacturers in Kenya and Nigeria are pinning their hopes on government policies and incentives for the revival of the industry. The African textile sector is among oldest in the world with highly skilled workers but the industry lost its pride due to several reasons and currently it is faced with several challenges.
The reduction of import duty to zero per cent on all synthetic, acrylic, polyester and high ferocity yarns from 10 per cent in 2010-11 is one of the initiatives by Kenya to create more employment and improve export earnings. Most textiles and apparels meant for exports are produced at the Export Processing Zones in Kenya. With the end of the multi fibre agreement in 2005, export-oriented firms have been on the downturn due to unfair competition and loss of orders.
Nigeria has the largest textile industry in sub-Saharan Africa after South Africa. The sector directly employed about 3,00,000 people and was capable of producing over 1.5 billion linear mt. of fabrics. But it currently employs only 25,000 direct employees and produces less than 250 million linear mt of fabrics. Now Nigeria plans to impose a higher tariff on imported fabrics to discourage imports and it will also come out with a package of incentives for local manufacturers.
The Spanish textile industry’s turnover has continuously dipped for two consecutive months in May and June 2013. The turnover index of the textile industry in June 2013 recorded a decrease of 9 per cent, after a fall in May when it registered a decline of 3.6 per cent.
The decline in textile industry turnover is the largest compared to the average turnover of the Spanish industrial sector, which fell by 4 per cent in June 2013. Contrary to the textile industry, the turnover of the garment manufacturing sector in Spain rose by 3 per cent in June, compared to a dip of 1.7 per cent in May 2013.
The New Orders Index (IEP) of industries related to the Spanish apparel sector grew unevenly in the month of June 2013. The IEP of the clothing industry recorded an increase of 15.4 per cent whereas that of textiles registered a decrease of 2.4 per cent.
The IEP in manufacturing of knitted fabrics, carpets, rope, non-woven fabrics, textile products for technical and industrial use, as well as other textile products also decreased by 0.9 per cent.
In June 2013, the textile sectors production also fell by 5.4 per cent year-on-year. Spanish companies have developed many innovations like automatic reeling machines, circular knitting machines for fine gauge sweaters and clothing inspection by artificial vision, electronic sectional warping machines with visual width control, re-reeling machines and automatic reeling machines.
Many Turkish textile companies which had units in Egypt have suspended their operations and future investment plans in the country escalating violence. Many foreign companies are concerned about their investments in Egypt in the high-risk environment. Some Turkish textile firms have decided to halt operations until the violence ceases.
There are many Turkish textile companies, which make up around 80 per cent of Turkey’s more than $2 billion investments in Egypt. LCWaikiki started retailing operations in Egypt two years back. It has shut down its stores in Cairo and Alexandria and is continuing operations only in Hurghada.
Some companies have already announced that they would halt their production in the country due to the state of emergency, including Turkish Yıldız Holding, European oil giant Shell and Swedish home appliances maker Electrolux. Egypt has been highly favored by Turkish and other companies to establish production facilities thanks to its low production costs and ability to sell custom-free goods to many countries.
Wal-Mart, GAP and other major US retailers will implement a Bangladesh factory-safety plan. The group is made up of 20 companies known as the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety. It has pledged to put fire and building safety standards in place by September 10.
Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety is the US industry's way of improving working conditions in facilities in Bangladesh and preventing disasters like the garment factory collapse in April. Retailers, who include Macy's and Target, have struck a five-year deal to train workers and inspect factories. They will require factory owners in Bangladesh to pay for their own safety renovations but have committed to providing $100 million in low-cost loans toward the effort.
Meanwhile owners of some 500 readymade garment units in Bangladesh have agreed to invest in workers' safety systems, fire-fighting equipment, evacuation mechanism, proper installation of machines and a healthy work environment. Factory owners are trying to introduce compliance following constant pressure from home and abroad. Nearly 1,830 garment workers have died so far in different building collapses, fires, and other accidents from 1990 to 2013.
Myanmar’s garment exporters have made record earnings in the first quarter of this year. Exports almost doubled in the period from January to March over the same period last year. Maximum orders came from Japan and South Korea. The US and European countries are also increasing garment orders after Myanmar was allowed into a trade preferences scheme by the European Union. Many Myanmar garment factories have started exporting to the US. Now the Myanmar Garment Entrepreneurs Association is training workers, to enable them to cater to the rising demand for garments from domestic as well as overseas markets.
Myanmar’s garment industry is labor intensive and the industry’s growth can create a large number of jobs. The country has a long history of making yarn, fabrics and garment. Currently, there are over 200 garment factories in Myanmar, employing about 20,000 people.
Some of Thailand's top garment companies will be moving their operations to Myanmar soon. Outsourcing labor to Myanmar offers significant cost savings to western manufacturers, as Burmese workers are among the lowest paid in Asia. The nation has the potential to develop into a viable apparel sourcing destination.
Ellen O'Kane Tauscher has been named the independent chair of its board of directors by a group of leading retailers and brands who make up the North American Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety. The Alliance also said it has been joined by three more companies namely Costco, Intradeco Apparel and Jordache Enterprises, bringing the total to 20 apparel companies, retailers and brands. With the new members, more than $45 million has been committed to administer the programmes developed by the Alliance over the next five years to help improve factory safety conditions for garment workers in Bangladesh.
The Alliance expects to announce the selection of its operating team, including the executive director for the program this September. Tauscher has worked for the US Department of State. She was appointed by President Barack Obama as under-secretary of state for arms control and international affairs, serving in the role from 2009-2012.
"The respect Tauscher has earned in Congress, the State Department, and the private sector will serve her well in the role as an independent leader and convener who can work with Alliance members and governments to pursue the critical safety mission and aggressive implementation schedule," said Ambassador James Moriarty, an Alliance board member and former US Ambassador to Bangladesh.
The board also includes three other stakeholder representatives, including Mohammad Atiqul Islam, President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturing and Exporters Association (BGMEA); Randy Tucker, global leader of the fire protection and safety team at CCRD, a Houston-based engineering firm; and Muhammad Rumee Ali, managing director of enterprises at BRAC, the international NGO founded in Bangladesh.
India has asked China to slash import duties on cotton fabric in order to bridge the growing trade deficit with the country. The two sides discussed ways to increase exports from India in order to contain the trade deficit that has widened despite a 10 per cent contraction in total trade during the year. They also discussed the need for setting up centers in India for servicing the large number of power equipment exported by China.
India has proposed reducing duty of cotton fabrics being imported into China from the current 10 per cent to 5 per cent. This can enhance cotton fabric exports from India.
Both India and China have agreed that the working group on trade and economic cooperation should meet in September along with another working group on trade in services and trade statistics. The Joint Economic Group (JEG) meet is likely to be scheduled in late October in Beijing.
In the last JEG meeting with China in August 2012 in New Delhi, India had handed over to China the roadmap for enhanced cooperation between India and China in the IT and pharmaceutical sectors.
Pakistan and China are interested in expanding trade and investment relations through joint venture projects and spreading trade in textiles, including spinning, weaving, processing and garment-making.
China can look at power generation, textile dyeing and finishing, textile machinery assembly/manufacturing, manmade fiber manufacturing, denim, twill, drill, shirting materials, technical textiles and logistics/cargo as a few potential areas for investment in Pakistan. And fresh investment in the textile industry of Pakistan would be in line with new opportunities like normalization of trade ties with India, market access under GSP and a growing domestic market of 180 million people in Pakistan.
The two countries have agreed in principle to a linking economic trade corridor. The corridor is expected to transform Pakistan into a hub of trade and commerce as it envisages establishing several economic zones and physical links connecting Pakistan and China as well as the region. The 2,000 km road and rail link connects the Chinese northwestern city of Kashgar to the southwestern Pakistani port of Gwadar.
Delegates of both countries have signed agreements for hydro-energy, solar energy and coal-based power projects.
Pakistan’s industrialists are aware that sustained power supply is only possible if the actual cost of production is paid, said Gohar Ejaz, Group Leader of All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA). “Industrialists are devising ways to improve efficiencies to offset the increasing power tariff,” he said. APTMA was informed that the industrial tariffs would go up, adding that the government planned to add low-cost electricity in the system in the medium-term to bring tariffs down.
“We are ready to bear the pain caused by increasing power tariffs if the government delivers on its promise to reduce them after three years,” said Ejaz. APTMA has decided to set up coal-based power plants at Gadani to meet the power needs of the textile sector. The electricity would be wheeled through the system of National Transmission and Despatch Company.
This plan has been approved and the association is expected to supply power to its members at half the current cost within 30 months. The current power tariff has factored in the cost of inefficiencies such as power theft and line losses, he said. Traders are not happy with the increase in power tariff, he added.
“He said small shopkeepers would be affected by this hike. Traders would give the government six months to eliminate power theft and ensure full payment of billed amount to reduce the power production cost,” he added.
Compared to harvest of about 82,000 tons of cotton in the previous season, around 43,000 tons of cotton was produced in 2012-13. Cotton is one of Paraguay's oldest crops, grown since the time of the Jesuit missions. The government encouraged cotton production after the crop was nearly wiped out by the War of the Triple Alliance. Cotton was especially suited to the Paraguayan climate and soils and was grown primarily by small farmers in the central region. Cotton farming experienced extremely rapid growth in the 1970s and 1980s.
The Council of Textile and Fashion Industries of Australia (TFIA) has outlined a series of priority areas to drive up jobs ahead of Australian elections. TFIA is calling on the government to support the textile, clothing and footwear industry in Australia. TFIA wants the government to give priority in procuring from Australian manufacturers than from international suppliers.
It is looking for an improved strategy in the development of creative design, trade and artisan skills, with further innovative education programs to meet the evolving demand of the industry towards digital production.
TFIA wants the government to support strategy that promotes opportunities for enterprises in the textile clothing and footwear industry of Australia. The body is calling for a reduction of taxes, which will allow it to be globally competitive. The labor body is seeking a reduction in red tape and a more innovative approach to sustainability. It wants clearer country of origin and safety labeling as it believes no-one is taking responsibility for the poor labeling and unsafe products being imported into Australia.
Compared to harvest of about 82,000 tons of cotton in the previous season, around 43,000 tons of cotton was produced in 2012-13. Cotton is one of Paraguay's oldest crops, grown since the time of the Jesuit missions. The government encouraged cotton production after the crop was nearly wiped out by the War of the Triple Alliance. Cotton was especially suited to the Paraguayan climate and soils and was grown primarily by small farmers in the central region. Cotton farming experienced extremely rapid growth in the 1970s and 1980s.
Exports of cotton from the Latin American country of Paraguay were affected due to a drastic reduction in cotton harvest during the 2012-13 season. Cotton exports earned $20.3 million in foreign exchange for Paraguay, showing a significant decline of 39.4 per cent compared to last year’s earnings of $ 33.5 million.
From January to July 2013, the bank recorded total cotton shipments at 10,917 tons, a drop of 40.5 per cent over 18,348 tons of exports recorded during the same period last year. The decline in exports was mainly due to fall in production, as drought affected the northern part of the country at the beginning of the year, and also because cultivation was delayed.
The late arrival of transgenic seeds was the main reason for a delay in sowing, as farmers were reluctant to produce cotton with outdated varieties. Bad weather, fall in cotton prices, and non-payment of announced subsidy by the government are cited as other reasons for the decline in cotton output this season.
Compared to harvest of about 82,000 tons of cotton in the previous season, around 43,000 tons of cotton was produced in 2012-13. Cotton is one of Paraguay's oldest crops, grown since the time of the Jesuit missions. The government encouraged cotton production after the crop was nearly wiped out by the War of the Triple Alliance. Cotton was especially suited to the Paraguayan climate and soils and was grown primarily by small farmers in the central region. Cotton farming experienced extremely rapid growth in the 1970s and 1980s.
US federal agencies have been banned from purchasing garments from Vietnam after the US Department of Labor's Bureau of International Labor Affairs said it believes clothing is being produced using forced or indentured child labour.
The Bureau of International Labor Affairs said based on the evidence it reviewed there are more than isolated cases of forced child labour in garment production. It noted these cases predominantly occur in small unregistered workplaces.
"In many countries, laws, policies and programs that are effective for registered factories are less effective at reaching children and other exploited workers in unregistered, more hidden work settings, and this appears to be the case in Vietnam's garment industry," the ruling said.
It added that in January this year, two Department of Labor officials visited the country to assess the current situation of forced child labour in Vietnam, with a focus on the garment sector, to gather additional information about the efforts and systems in place to combat this problem. Following meetings, the officials confirmed that most, but not all, child labour in the garment sector occurs in small, unregistered workshops.
"The visit confirmed that systematic monitoring of forced or indentured child labour in the garment sector is limited and largely confined to the larger, registered factories. There is no evidence of systematic monitoring of child labour in smaller, unregistered workshops," the ruling said.
Colombia has discussed with Panama the lifting of tariff measures on the import of apparel from the Colon Free Zones (CFZs), a free trade zone in the port of Colon, Panama. The countries reviewed the issue of extraordinary tariff collection that applies on Panama’s exports of apparel from the CFZs. Colombia has announced a review on the special duty of US $5 per kilo charged on the imports of apparel from CFZs.
In March 2013, Colombia had imposed an additional $5per kilo duty on apparels imported from other countries, including Panama, irrespective of the price of the imported product, while reducing the tariff on textiles and apparels from 15 to 10 per cent. The duty affects apparel exporters from Panama’s CFZs, and exporters had voiced their opposition even during the talks for Colombia-Panama Free Trade Agreement, the negotiations of which ended in June 2013.
The Colon Free Zone is a gigantic entity at the Atlantic gateway to the Panama Canal, dedicated to re-export an enormous variety of merchandise to Latin America and the Caribbean. It is one of the pillars of the Panamanian economy. Imports and exports registered in the Colon Free Trade Zone surpass 5 billion dollars annually, directed towards a market of more than 525 million consumers.
Alpaca fiber, both from Peru and Australia, is in high demand in the luxury apparel market across the world. This is mainly due to its natural range of colors and other environment-friendly qualities.The Peruvian Society of Registered Alpaca (SPAR) recently exported 7.1 ton of high quality alpaca fiber worth $1,25,000 to Italian fabric manufacturing company FratelliPiacanza, known for manufacturing high-quality garments.
Australian alpaca fiber is extremely soft as compared to other fibers and therefore is suited for luxury next to skin wear garments. The vibrant range of natural colors of alpaca fibers provides it a clear product differentiation from other fibers as there is no need for use of harsh chemicals during the dyeing process. The fact that alpacas are often reared in welfare friendly conditions also carries a distinct advantage.
An alpaca is a smaller version of the animal llama. Alpacas graze at elevations of 10,000 to 14,000 ft on the Peruvian Andes. Their thick, sumptuous coats grow naturally in over 40 shades-from ivory to black, with all the greys and browns in between. Lighter shades of the fleece also take dyes beautifully. Alpacasare tended to by Andean herdsmen, who shear them every other year at the onset of the rainy season. The yield is about eight pounds of fleece per animal. Most of the fleece sheared from the first clip is classified as baby alpaca.
The apparel industry in Bangladesh needs to improve its image for guaranteeing the country's long-term prosperity. The collapse of Rana Plaza in Dhaka in April 2013 sent shockwaves through the textile and clothing industries. More than 1,100 lives were lost in the incident, and Bangladesh's reputation as a reliable low- cost location for clothing suffered a severe blow in the eyes of consumers and major brands.
Some western buyers have cancelled orders in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza collapse and placed them elsewhere. Moreover, a number of Bangladeshi factories have been blacklisted. There is a danger that retailers and consumers will view cheap clothing from Bangladesh as coming at too high a cost in human terms, and that they will prefer other countries where costs are low but similar tragedies have not occurred -- such as Cambodia and Vietnam.
Sales in the US import market could be negatively affected following a decision by the US government to suspend Bangladesh's preferential duty treatment under the Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) scheme, and Bangladesh's preferential access to the EU could also be revoked if the government does not take necessary steps to significantly improve building safety standards and overall labor conditions in the country.
The government and major brands need to work together with suppliers to change the apparel industry into one in which there are safe factories, decent wages and respect for workers' rights. However, gains will only be sustainable if the added labor costs are absorbed by buyers as well as manufacturers.
The apparel sector has set itself a target of $5 billion in 2015 through garment exports.“A further $1 billion is targeted from the emerging new markets in China around that time, together it will make the apparel sector worth nearly $7 billion before the end of 2020,” Tuli Cooray, Secretary-General of JAAF said. President Mahinda Rajapaksa in his capacity as Finance Minister recently released a gazette notification titled ‘Commercial Hub Regulation No: 1 of 2013’, which will be applicable to all new enterprises established or incorporated in Sri Lanka.
Speaking about its benefits the apparel industry could accrue under this new regulation, Cooray said that the sector alone would anticipate an additional foreign exchange turnover of $1billion by year 2018.“We will mobilize all our existing resources to promote the new opportunity that has been opened and significantly improve our participation in reinforcing the national economy”, the Secretary-General added.
“The JAAF has played a vital role in the formulation of new regulation and actively participated in most of the consultative processes capitalizing on the government's ‘Open Forum’ policy where input from all shades of stakeholders were considered before the CHR was introduced,” he added. When the Bill for the introduction of Commercial Hub regulation was introduced in Parliament, it was challenged in the Supreme Court through a petition in the mid part of this year and the JAAF collective stood by the Bill and intervened as an interested party and cited its implementation justifiable as it was in the best interest of the country.
“The five year Strategic Plan of the JAAF which was rolled out in 2010 has outlined the significance of enhancing its present role as a manufacturing and supplying garments to a totally integrated solution provider for the international apparel sources, facilitating end to end solutions starting from research and development, supply chain services, logistics etc. Three years on, our achievement is significant,” he stated.
Bangladesh is about to finalize a deal to import cotton from Uzbekistan. This will ensure the supply of 200,000 tons of cotton annually for the Bangladesh textile industry.Uzbekistan is the sixth largest cotton producer in the world with 4.6 million bales produced in 2011. The two countries already exchanged the draft of the memorandum of understanding (MoU) which is now under scrutiny.
The draft MoU states that both parties will cooperate with each other for direct delivery of raw cotton from Uzbekistan to Bangladesh on a regular basis. The Uzbek state-run foreign trade companies namely 'Uzprommashimpex', 'Uzinterimpex' and 'Uzmarkazimpeks' will supply the cotton to any importer registered in Bangladesh.
About 35 per cent of the total cotton imports to Bangladesh is from Uzbekistan. Bangladesh and Uzbekistan had agreed for cooperation on various bilateral trade issues including cotton supply in a meeting of the Joint Working Commission for Trade and Economic Cooperation held in Tashkent in May 2012.
Bangladesh is also holding talks with India for getting 1.5 million bales of cotton a year. The country's yearly requirement of cotton is nearly 4.0 million bales, of which 0.12 million bales are produced locally. Rest of the demand -- nearly 98 per cent -- is being met by importing it from various countries.
Bangladesh’s export earnings witnessed a robust 24 per cent rise in July 2013 compared to July 2012, thanks to a significant growth in the shipment of readymade garments.The garment sector witnessed negative growth in July 2012 but one year later, in July 2013, the growth has turned positive. In July 2012, export growth was only 4.26 per cent against the earnings in July 2011.
Government officials and garment manufacturers have termed the growth as excellent considering the recession and recent incidents in the apparel sector that have drawn huge local and international attention. Bangladesh has sent trade delegations to new markets like China, Japan, Africa and Latin America to reduce the dependency on the European Union and US markets. It’s also focusing to diversify into products like leather, shrimp and light engineering products.
However the low-cost country retains its allure for cost-crunching global retailers despite deadly incidents. Duty-free access to western markets and low wages has helped make Bangladesh the world’s second-largest apparel exporter after China. From spinning to weaving, from knitwear to leisurewear and high street fashions, the textiles and clothing industry is Bangladesh’s biggest export earner. The country’s garment industry employs four million workers and generates 80 per cent of Bangladesh's export earnings.
Bangladesh’s historic state-owned Muslin Cotton Mills has reopened in Gazipur district after the ownership was transferred to Masers Reefat Garments Company.Production was stopped at the largest muslin cotton mill in Asia in 1990 for its failure to pay wages and salaries to its 2,885 workers amid serious mismanagement.
Set up on 100 acres of land on the bank of river Shitalakhya in Kaliganj in 1952, the mill once had three sections — spinning, looming and dyeing.Before its closure, the company used to make fabrics and yarn out of cotton.Speaking at a function to reopen the closed textile mill,Abdul LatifSiddiqui, Minister of Jute and Textiles, said after 24 years of closure the government took an initiative to reopen the historic cotton mill.The Muslin Cotton Mills would generate employment opportunities for 25,000 people in the Gazipur district.
About 50 Turkish textile factories are relocating to Ethiopia. They will be housed in an industrial zone. One such company is Ayka Addis. This is a 25-year-old Turkish international garment firm in close contact with all major garment manufacturers in Turkey. Ayka inaugurated its factory at a cost of $140 million near Addis Ababa, in 2010, creating jobs for more than 10,000 people. It has the capacity to export textile products worth $100 million per annum.
The relocation is expected to create $2 billion worth of export revenue per annum and more than 60,000 job opportunities in Ethipia. The Ethiopian textile and clothing industry has experienced a major expansion drive and several leading retailers are now sourcing their textile and clothing requirements from the country. The list of retailers sourcing from Ethiopia include retailers like Tesco, Primark and H&M. Presently around 10 per cent of Ethiopia’s textile and clothing exports are to the UK.
The government has set a target of attracting around $1.6 billion in foreign direct investment by 2016 to facilitate the construction of around 200 new textile and clothing units. For expansion, the industry would mainly focus on increasing domestic cotton output. Ethiopia has about three million hectares of land suitable for cotton cultivation.
A recent report‘Road to 2025: Textile and apparel sector report’, China and India will be the major growth centres for apparel consumption by 2025. The combined size of the Chinese and Indian apparel markets is slated to become bigger than that of US and European Union (EU).“The combined apparel market size of China and India will become $740 billion by 2025, and is expected to surpass the combined market size of US and Europe, which will be $725 billion in 2025,” states the report.
At present the size of apparel market in China and India is estimated at $150 billion and $45 billion, respectively. Both have shown robust growth, despite global uncertainties and slackened demand, says the report.
From 2007 to 2012, the Chinese market posted an annualized growth of 15 per cent whereas the Indian market registered a somewhat lower growth at 12 per cent. However, both have performed better than the other major consumption regions (US, EU and Japan) where the economic conditions led to lower growth in demand.
“Asia has already emerged as the largest manufacturer-supplier hub for textile and apparel products to the world, and the region is on the verge of entering into a new phase wherein its own consumption of textile and apparel products would become large,” the report states.
It goes on to say the key reasons for apparel consumption in the two countries to grow are high economy growth, and consumer income, market development supported by expansion of domestic brands, which have the bandwidth and exposure to go deep into the markets, and high growth of online retail in these countries.
The report also suggests that the consumption level in countries would grow, as the Chinese consumer’s changing preference to buy more for fashion than replacement purpose would increase and Indian consumer’s growing exposure to organized retail and branded merchandise would also increase.
Chinese textile manufacturers are competing to secure import quotas for well-priced and high quality cotton, as the government pressures them to use more expensive lower quality domestic supplies.The spread between Chinese and imported cotton has hit China's textile industry hard. It’s one major reason Chinese manufacturers are becoming much less competitive in the global market.
In January, the Chinese government imposed a 3:1 rule on manufacturers. By which they had to use three tons of Chinese cotton to secure quotas to buy one ton of imported cotton. The quality of Chinese cotton is much lower than that of imported cotton, which generates more losses in production.
The goal is to reduce the size of the eight million tons of stocks the Chinese government has bought to assure sufficient local supplies. The policy is already weakening the price of China-made cotton, but with farmers demanding high prices, it is still higher than foreign cotton.
The International Cotton Advisory Committee has warned cotton prices are expected to rise in the 2013-14 season, despite cotton stocks heading towards a new high. The inter-governmental group blamed stockpiling by the Chinese government, and the expected tightening of stocks outside of China.
On July 15 about 100 cotton and textile professionals gatheredin New York for a one-day conference titled, ‘A Dialog on China's Cotton and Textile Industry Evolution.' Liu Hua, General Counsel for the China National Cotton Reserve Corp. (CNCRC)provided some general guidelines and insight about CNCRC’s business development plans. China currently has a 163per cent stocks-to-use ratio of cotton and is estimated to have 63 per cent of the current world reserves. Huaadds, “The current state of affairs is abnormal. We are trying to reduce inventory but need more time. Consumption needs to be increased, as more and more farmers become city dwellers.
He went on to add the China does not want cotton production to decrease too quickly. And it will take at least three more years before China’s consumption use to ratios will improve.Hua said CNCRC will create a dedicated logistics company "in near future," which will oversee cotton storage and transportation. China currently relies heavily on railroads to get fibre from the production areas in the northwest to the mills in the east, but the intention is to increase the use of highways for better flexibility.
At the end of his presentation, Hua said CNCRC pledges to be more transparent and open in its operations.
The combined apparel market of China and India will grow to $740billion by 2025 -- surpassing the projected combined US and European market of $725billion at the time. This was revealed in a recent report by India-based management consultants Wazir Advisors, 'The Road to 2025'. The report estimates that in 2025 the global apparel market will cross the $2 trillion mark from the current value of $1.1 trillion.
The report released at Texcon 2013, organized by Confederation of Indian Industries (CII), also points out that intra-Asia trade of textile and apparel will grow from $180billion in 2011 to $350billion by 2025. And it said India's export share in this market would grow 3.5 times from its current value of $12billion.
The report added that while China will remain the world's biggest clothing exporter, growth in domestic demand is expected to outpace exports.Also Chinese output growth will slow from today's 7 per cent to 5-6 per cent per annum by 2025. This will lead to an annual global shortfall in production compared to demand estimated to exceed $100billion.
And with China's increased focus on domestic consumption and rising costs, other exporting countries such as India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Vietnam will have an opportunity to gain global export market share, the report said.
Li & Fung, the most important company that most US shoppers have never heard of has long been on the cutting edge of globalization, chasing cheap labor to garment factories first in China, then elsewhere in Asia, including Bangladesh.
Now, with sweatshop disasters drawing international scrutiny, business is looking up for the next best place such as South America or sub-Saharan Africa where it can steer apparel buyers seeking workers to stitch clothes for a few dollars a day.
As the world's largest sourcing and logistics company, Li & Fung plays matchmaker between factories in poor countries and vendors in affluent countries, finding the lowest-cost workers, haggling over prices and handling over the logistics for roughly a third of retailers found in typical US shopping malls.
Hong Kong-based Li & Fung is a merchandiser who does not own any clothing factories, sewing machines and fabric mills. Its chief asset is the 15,000 suppliers in more than 60 countries that make up a network so sprawling that an order for 500,000 bubble skirts that once took six months from drawing board to store shelf, now takes six weeks at a sliver of the price. That scale gives Li & Fung tremendous clout.
But in pioneering and perfecting the global hunt for ways to produce clothing more quickly and cheaply, Li & Fung, which had $20 billion in revenue last year, has been described by critics as the garment industry's ‘sweatshop locator’.In Bangladesh, Li & Fung has been tied to several calamities. It arranged the production of clothing for Kohl's at one factory where 29 workers died in a fire in 2010. It brokered some work at another in 2011 where more than 50 workers who made Tommy Hilfiger clothing were injured and at least two died in an explosion and a stampede.And last year, Li & Fung was responsible for some garments produced at the Tazreen Fashions factory, where 112 workers died last November after many of them were ordered to continue working even though fire alarms had sounded.
Garment exports from India has seen a 12.13 per cent increase in June. As per AEPC’s data release for the month of June, “Apparel exports were to the tune of $1,240 million in June 2013-14 with an increase of 12.13 per cent against the corresponding month of last financial year. In rupee terms, exports have increased by 17 per cent in June 2013-14 over the same month of previous FY.
In the FY 2012-13, exports in dollar terms declined by 6 per cent from the previous FY and totaled to $12,923 million in April-March 2012-13.Export in dollar terms for three months of the fiscal 2013-14 has increased by 11 per cent over the same period of previous FY and reached to $3,561 million however, in rupee terms exports increased by 15 per cent compared to the same period of last FY. In April-June 2013-14 in rupee terms apparel export of India was to the tune of Rs19, 918 crores compared to Rs. 17,342 crores in April-June 2012-13.
On imports from India by the US, A Sakthivel, Chairman, AEPC says, “Apparel imports of the United States witnessed an increase of 3.7 per cent in the Jan-May of 2013 from the previous year and amounted to $30.6 billion.”India’s export to EU for Jan-May 2013 amounted to $2.5 billion with a decline of -1.1 per cent compared to the same period of previous year, AEPC chairman observed.
Apparel Export Promotion Council, under the aegis of Ministry of Textiles, Government of India in active collaboration with Embassy of India, Japan, participated with 136 companies, constituting over 20 per cent share in overall participation in JFW International Fashion Fair, Tokyo from 17th – 19th July, 2013.
ZohraChatterji, Secretary (Textiles) inaugurated the ‘India Pavilion’ on July 17, 2013 at Tokyo, Japan. The Indian Pavilion witnessed over 1900 buyers and the business negotiated / done was US$ 32.4 million.
Chatterji had detailed interaction for increasing India’s textile and apparel exports with Shimomoura with various Japanese officials. She also chaired a seminar on ‘Growing India – Japan Cooperation in Textiles and Clothing Sector’ in the presence of leading textile and clothing stakeholders of Japan.Garment exports during the period 2012 were $ 293 million as compared to $270 million in 2011, posting a positive growth of 8.11 per cent. First time visitors were hopeful of generating business in the long term. Considering this, it is expected that the overall growth in business with Japan may be over 10 per cent.
Chatterji also launched Fair Promotion Plan for Japanese buyers for the forthcoming international textile and apparel fair ‘Tex-Trends India’ to be held from January (20-22, 2014) at PragatiMaidan, New Delhi.
Textiles exports to Japan from the world isworth $41540 million. Apparel exports were worth $3,2073million in 2012. India’s exports of textile were worth $485 millon.
Lycra brand owner Invistahas announced the 13 semi-finalists for the ‘Lycra Future Designers Award’a part of the WGSN Global Fashion Awards ceremony. The announcement was made at St Martins Lane, London (UK), at a reception co-hosted by singer and style innovator Kate Nash. This year, the winner will be announced at a star-studded, gala event at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London on October 30.
India’s Himani Harish has been shortlisted. others in the list include:Alison Vincent, Eva Lai, Irina Lazova and Lucy Gardner from UK; Hanna Lucatelli from Brazil; Han Zhongshu, Chow Bohan and Shixuan Zhao, from China; Alejandra Perdomo and Daniela Larrea from Colombia; Silvia Silvia from Singapore; and Patty Clariza, from the United States.
The 5th edition of Lycra Future Designers will offer one outstanding student or graduate designer the chance to work with expert mentors at Invistaand overall consultancy. The winner will also receive fabrics with Lycrafibre, a package to help with the development of a collection to help kick-start their careers.
“The WGSN Global Fashion Awards offers the perfect international platform for Invista, owner of the Lycra brand, to celebrate young and upcoming design from across the globe with shortlisted candidates entering from countries such as UK, Colombia, Brazil, India, China, Singapore and the United States,” says Denise Sakuma, Invista Apparel Global Director of Brand and Communications. “We are so excited to be able to use this platform to launch new creative talents that will help lead and design the apparel industry.”
Japan’s import of cotton yarn has declined by 2.8 percent year-on-year to 140,784 bales during the first half of 2013. This was revealed from data by Japan Spinners’ Association. However, the data reveals Japan’s imports of combed yarn grew by a sharp 18.4 percent to 69,562 bales from January to June.
Its cotton yarn imports from India shot up by 19.8 percent year-on-year to 22,141 bales during the period under review, which included 18,973 bales of combed yarn, showing a rise of 17.6 percent year-on-year.
Japan’s cotton yarn imports from Indonesia also surged to55,093 bales during the six-month period, registering a growth of 19.2 percent year-on-year. However, Japan’s cotton yarn imports from Pakistan dropped by a significant 41.3 percent to 30,478 bales during the same period, according to the data.
Spanish company Jeanologia, a world leader in the development of sustainable technologies for finishing garments, and its partner in China, Prosperity Textile, have launched a sustainable technology Demo Centre in Guangzhou (China). The aim is to transform the Chinese textile industry into a sustainable and environmentally friendly one.It is being conceived as a referral centre in Asia for demonstration and training, specialized in sustainable technologies, such as laser and ozone that allows automation of the production process by reducing production costs while saving water, energy and chemicals and avoiding unhealthy processes of operators.
Jeanologia’s President, Enrique Silla, has expressed his commitment to ethical and responsible industry with the use of technologies that respect the environment and health of workers and has underlined that these technologies “are the future of the textile industry”.
On Demo Centre, Jeanologia’s President says that it will be an example of a factory of the future and will keep on training Chinese companies that want to apply these new technologies. “In this line highlighted that Jeanologia and Prosperity are aware that the industry is changing and we not only need to invest in machinery and technology, but it is necessary to train people in the new methods.”
He has forecasts that the production of jeans will not move from China to Bangladesh or Cambodia, but it will just change. "In just five years, China will remain the world's leading producer of jeans but this time thanks to the efficiency of sustainable technologies like laser treatments or the use of ozone instead of water" he said.
In his opinion "The times of shifting production from one country to another seeking lower labor costs are over. We are entering an era of technological efficiency. In a few years, no pants will be manufactured without the use of green technologies, China has the opportunity to transform their industry”.
Sri Lanka’s non-BOI apparel exporters have been integrated into the global network, Asycuda World (of UNCTAD). Apparel exports are now back on track having overcome global recession, a Ministry of Industry and Commerce spokesman said.He said that Sri Lanka’s apparel sector has entered a new phase. As a result of Sri Lanka’s non-BOI apparel manufacturers directly integrating into the online ‘Asycuda World’ system, the country has cleared a major bottleneck in apparel exports. “Our apparel exporters are joining the global network set up by UNCTAD in which 85 countries are members,” said minister of industry and commerce, Rishad Bathiudeen.
“With this integration, non-BOI apparel manufacturers can directly submit declarations to the customs and the process has become partially paperless,” he said. “The result is that travel time is reduced, less bureaucracy and less document processing by the non-BOI apparel exporters for every shipment. In fact, they can now submit customs declarations directly from their factories thereby paying more attention to their manufacturing process,” said Bathiudeen.
The Proposed Shipment Declaration (PSD) documents too will go online in due course. Overall garment exports which include apparel and other woven fabrics increased in the first half of 2013 by 1.5 per cent to $1,994 million compared to $1,964 million in the corresponding period of the past year. For the first half of this year ‘apparel only’ exports totaled $1,873 million compared to $1,874 million for the corresponding period of the past year.
A dangerous flammable fabric is being imported into the US that fails to meet basic fire standards. Put a lighter’s flame to the fabric and it ignites like a sparkler, dripping molten chemicals that burn into the surface of anything that its drips on. Normal polyester when held to a lighter will roll back on itself and when cooled the polyester becomes quite hard like a plastic.
The fabric is labeled as 100 per cent polyester, although silver-nano particles can be seen with the naked eye. Silver particles generally provide anti-microbial properties. Oddly, the test fabric has been marketed as stain-resistant instead of anti-microbial. The silver particles are not embedded and when ignited, the silver becomes airborne. The nano terminology that was used on the labeling to describe the finishing is totally misleading.
The label doesn’t say what abrasion material was used; cotton or wire, and how many pounds of pressure were used. In the early ’90s a synthetic georgette fabric was banned from import due to its high flammability. There are outdoor performance products which are labeled as containing CoolMax, a moisture wicking fabric developed by DuPont in 1986. However, what CoolMax actually is anyone’s guess.
The fifth edition of Spinexpo New York, held from July 16 to 18, 2013 saw knitwear designers, sourcing managers, retail buyers and brand directors explore an international offering comprising of fibers, yarns, knitwear manufacturing, trend direction and market intelligence.The three-day fair attracted 1,379 visitors, a 10 per cent increase over the 2012 edition. The majority of them represented major brands mostly from New York and surrounding states.
The exhibition showcased 82 exhibitors, who included fiber manufacturers, yarn spinners, knitwear and machine manufacturers, and design studios from China, Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan, Indonesia, Mauritius, Italy, Germany, Turkey, France, the UK and USA.
Knitwear manufacturers with a variety of specialties added their expertise to the show.Some offered a complete vertical service from yarn to finished garment. A collaboration between machine manufacturer Shima Seiki and yarn spinner Nikko Textile created excitement at the interactive stand of PT JabaGarmindo, Indonesia’s largest knitwear manufacturer. The stand attracted a large number of visitors who could check the manufacturing quality of the Indonesian company.
The new ThiesiMaster F series from German Thies GmbH is destined particularly for dyeing high pile fabrics, such as terry toweling.The new F series is the latest innovation for the highly successful iMaster range of dyeing machines. It features a large transport winch inside the dyeing kier to be processed with significantly reduced elongation. It results in improved stability, perfect fabric condition and appearance, and ensures economic and environment-friendly operation with advanced automation at low liquor levels, as low as 1:4 for cotton.
The new models are available with capacities of between 250 kg to 400 kg per chamber. The iMaster F series can be delivered with up to maximum eight tubes for the 250 kg/tube, and six tubes for the 400 kg version. They are also able to process a wide range of different articles.
The new machine is equipped with a 100 per cent stock tank, a dosing tank and delivery system for dry salt and is particularly optimized for the production of terry articles. The automatic self-cleaning filter system always helps to achieve every time the same dyeing and treatment conditions. Manual interventions for cleaning are reduced and productivity is increased. Rinse, wash and dye baths are measured online, continuously analyzed and displayed graphically.
The National Tariff Commission (NTC) of Pakistan has decided not to impose anti-dumping duty on import of Polyester Staple Fibre (PSF) from China. The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) had been lobbying for it for a long time. The APTMA feels not imposing duty will have a positive impact on textile imports and will provide a long-term advantage to the textile industry, as polyester use is bound to increase. PSF is an important industrial material. However, the provisional anti-dumping duty continued for four months.
After value-addition on imported fibers, textile products are exported. Pakistan needs to import PSF in view of the acute domestic production shortfall of PSF. APTMA says imposition of anti-dumping duty operates against international competitiveness of Pakistan textile products predominantly meant for export.
Imposition of anti-dumping duty on industrial raw material besides making imports costlier have the effect of raising domestic raw material prices to a level where they become unviable for the textile industry. However, the domestic PSF industry was vociferous in pleading for imposition of anti-dumping duty as it gives the industry an amount of protection by which it raises domestic prices.
All Pakistan Textile Mills Association is the premier national trade association of textile spinning, weaving, and composite mills representing the organized sector in Pakistan. It represents 396 textile mills, out of which 315 are spinning, 44 weaving and 37 composite units.
Executives in the apparel sector and agents in RMG trade in the US believe that the cost of clothing will rise in the coming months as a sequel to the Rana Plaza collapse. After the Rana Plaza incident, operational costs of garment factories in most exporting countries mainly Bangladesh, has risen.The reasons include: spending extra money in improving safety standards and meeting worker’s demand for higher wages.
The overall rise in clothing cost will equally hurt manufacturers and consumers. It is likely to curtail profits margin of garment companies, as they may not be able to raise retail prices, fearing the shoppers' backlash.
Leading brands and retailers in Europe, the US and Canada, who buy garments from Bangladesh, have taken separate but identical multi-million dollar projects to improve safety standards and workers' rights in local garment factories over the next five years.
In the wake of tragedies in the RMG sector, global retailers including Wal-Mart, GAP and Abercrombie & Fitch have pledged various moves to improve workers' safety. Bangladesh is the second largest garment exporter of the world after China, controlling about 20 per cent of the total US apparel import with a dramatic share increase in the recent years.
Shanghai will host Planet Textiles Conference on October, 22, 2013. Jointly organized by Ecotextile News and Messe Frankfurt, Planet Textiles tackles the crucial issue of sustainability in the global textile sector.Now in its fifth year, Planet Textiles is Asia's premiere annual event dedicated to reducing the impact of textiles on the environment.
The head of sustainability at leading Chinese textile mill Jiangsu Lianfa will give a real-world example of environmental and cost savings for a Chinese textile mill through implementation of simple environmental-led steps. Previous attendees at Planet Textiles include: senior executives from Nike, H&M, Wal-Mart, Levi Strauss, Puma, VF Corp, Adidas, H&M, Marks & Spencer, Esprit, Pacific Textiles and Warnaco, to name a few.
Planet Textiles will take place within the same venue as Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Asia’s leading sourcing exhibition, which attracts more than 60,000 visitors. This year, the link between Planet Textiles and Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics will be strengthened through an innovative new “all about sustainability” zone. This new area of the show will feature three sections: exhibitors: sustainable fabrics producers, and dye and chemical companies; educational Zone: sustainability testing certifiers, trade associations, NGOs and eco publications; display area: recycled fabrics, products, solutions and initiatives.
A New Zealand-based Woolyarns produces an exclusive range of luxury yarn brand for both textile manufacturing and hand knitting markets internationally.It is Woolyarns’ Zealana hand knitting yarn. Zealana uses luxuriously soft and lightweight blended Brushtail possum fiber. It is spun into beautiful yarn that is sought after by handknitters.
Brushtail possum fiber is super soft and prized for its lightweight warmth and breathability. Possum for Zealana yarn is collected from a small number of carefully selected regions, only at certain times of the year. It is then blended with the finest merino or cashmere to guarantee softness and consistency in this high end luxury yarn. Woolyarns uses 40 to 50 tons of possum fiber annually across its product range. This is equivalent to the fiber from more than one million possums.
Woolyarns was established 68 years ago. For several decades, it provided yarns only for commercial purposes. In the early 1990’s, it pioneered the use of possum fiber mixed with wool. In 2006, Woolyarns released Zealana, its first hand knitting and crochet yarns.
Woolyarns offers a select niche range of bespoke yarns, in addition to its classic range. Luxury yarn brands in Woolyarns’ portfolio of bespoke yarns are Zealana (hand knitting), Perino (knitwear, apparel, hosiery yarns), INZpire (carpet yarns) and Callibra (sourced yarns).
As financial results reporting season gains momentum, investors in textile sector are looking to splendid growth in profitability, which would probably match the financial year 2013 performance. Profitability of textile (sample firms) scaled four-fold to Rs22.8 billion in three-quarters of financial year 2013 (9MFY13) as against Rs4.4billion in the same period last year.
“Last fiscal year, FY-’13, was one of the better years for Pakistan textile sector in terms of sales and profits which was also reflected in more than 100per cent price performance of our sample listed textile firms with market capitalization of over Rs25 million,” says ZeeshanAfzalof Topline Securities.
Though shortage of power remained the perennial problem, especially in winter, the textile companies’ jump in profits by 400per cent was mainly attributed to stable cotton prices and strong regional demand.
Moreover, continuous depreciation of rupee against the dollar and cheaper financing also contributed to hefty earnings growth. In FY-’13, Pakistan exported $13bn worth textile products, up by 5.9per cent in dollar terms but represented improvement by 14.7per cent in local currency due to the drop in value of the rupee.
The growth in exports was attributed mainly to imposition of cotton floor price in China that encouraged Chinese textile manufacturers to import more yarn and grey cloth instead of converting yarn into costly local cotton.As a result, Pakistan’s yarn and grey cloth exports increased by 24per cent and 10per cent to $2.2billion and $2.7billion, respectively, in FY-’13. The latest results of textile sector are expected to show continuous growth in export for FY-’14 on the back of sustained textile demand from China and substantial depreciation in local currency.
However, analysts caution that much would depend upon international cotton prices, though major volatility was unlikely to be seen in local cotton prices in FY-’14. The encouragement was based on estimates of Cotton Crop Assessment Committee (CCAC) which estimated Pakistan’s cotton production at 13.25million bales in FY-’14, slightly higher over the 13.0 million bales produced by the country in FY-’13.
Exports and profits of the sector could also improve due to expected Generalised System of Preferences (GSP Plus) status from EU, as lower import duties would provide Pakistan a competitive edge in international markets. “Further operating environment of the textile sector may see further improvement in low interest rate scenario,” analysts said, the caveat, however, being the all-important improvement in energy situation.
The 2013 ThéophileLegrand International Prize for Textile Innovation will be awarded on October 5 at ValJolyEppe-Sauvage resort.The ThéophileLegrand Foundation – Institut de France was created in 2007 by Christian Cambier, a descendant of ThéophileLegrand. ThéophileLegrand is the founder of the wool industry in Fourmies, France.
Since 2009, two ThéophileLegrand awards are granted annually. With a value of €18,000, these two awards celebrate two distinguished researchers and/or students who have created original material, fiber or fabric in the field of technical textiles; or an innovative textile design and/or a new textile industrial production technique.
The goal is to foster innovation, research, and imagination by showcasing emerging technical and industrial creations. In 2009, the prize was awarded to AurélieCayla for inventing a smart textile that senses specific temperatures. In 2011 Munir Ashraf won it for creating a self-cleaning and antibacterial textile. Last year, Pierre-Alexandre won the prize for a decontaminating textile to treat air and water.
An innovative textile design project can be submitted for consideration providing the entrant or team of researchers is able to prove that the project, product and the invention of newly used elements are their own work. Selection criteria are the same for inventors of new textile fabrics as well as innovators of new processes of textile production. All entrants are judged on their creativity, originality, innovation to the field and the project’s ability to be industrially reproduced.
Turkey’s textiles exports, excluding apparels, has seen an increase if 6.6 percent in the first six months of 2013 compared to the corresponding period of last year.Turkish firms exported $4.164 billion worth of textiles to other countries during January to June 2013, accounting for 5.6 percent of total Turkish exports.
Segment-wise, woven fabric exports earned $1.436 billion, followed by knitted fabric which fetched $845.6 million. Yarn exports from Turkey were worth $838.5 million, while fiber exports amounted to $307.8 million from January to June 2013. Exports to the EU accounted for 45 percent of all Turkish textile exports during the six-month period.
Turkish textile exports rose to $7.75 billion in 2012 from $7.7 billion in 2011. Turkey exported textiles worth $542.2 million to Russia, $418.2 million to Italy, and $213.8 million to Germany during the first quarter of 2013.
US federal agencies have been banned from purchasing garments from Vietnam after the US Department of Labor's Bureau of International Labor Affairs said it believes clothing is being produced using forced or indentured child labour.
The Bureau of International Labor Affairs said based on the evidence it reviewed there are more than isolated cases of forced child labour in garment production. It noted these cases predominantly occur in small unregistered workplaces.
"In many countries, laws, policies and programs that are effective for registered factories are less effective at reaching children and other exploited workers in unregistered, more hidden work settings, and this appears to be the case in Vietnam's garment industry," the ruling said.
It added that in January this year, two Department of Labor officials visited the country to assess the current situation of forced child labour in Vietnam, with a focus on the garment sector, to gather additional information about the efforts and systems in place to combat this problem. Following meetings, the officials confirmed that most, but not all, child labour in the garment sector occurs in small, unregistered workshops.
"The visit confirmed that systematic monitoring of forced or indentured child labour in the garment sector is limited and largely confined to the larger, registered factories. There is no evidence of systematic monitoring of child labour in smaller, unregistered workshops," the ruling said.
India has eased import norms on certain varieties of wool to help the domestic industry in sourcing the raw material.The Indian wool importing industry wanted the removal of the mandatory requirement of a ‘No Objection Certificate’ for wool imports as it hindered supplies and was hurting the sector.
Of course, certain varieties of wool still need not require an NOC. This move is expected to aid the smooth inflow of wool imports, help the domestic industry engaged in value addition, making carpets, woolen clothing, garments and other woolen products and help in increasing the country's exports.
Wool importers have been complaining of difficulty and harassment on quarantine issues for the last three years. Some quarantine officers and custom officers had stopped the clearance of wool imports seeking an animal quarantine clearance or a NOC. The imported wool is being used for producing exportable products and hence, this step, adversely affected domestic value addition and exports.
The apparel sector has set itself a target of $5 billion in 2015 through garment exports.“A further $1 billion is targeted from the emerging new markets in China around that time, together it will make the apparel sector worth nearly $7 billion before the end of 2020,” Tuli Cooray, Secretary-General of JAAF said. President Mahinda Rajapaksa in his capacity as Finance Minister recently released a gazette notification titled ‘Commercial Hub Regulation No: 1 of 2013’, which will be applicable to all new enterprises established or incorporated in Sri Lanka.
Speaking about its benefits the apparel industry could accrue under this new regulation, Cooray said that the sector alone would anticipate an additional foreign exchange turnover of $1billion by year 2018.“We will mobilize all our existing resources to promote the new opportunity that has been opened and significantly improve our participation in reinforcing the national economy”, the Secretary-General added.
“The JAAF has played a vital role in the formulation of new regulation and actively participated in most of the consultative processes capitalizing on the government's ‘Open Forum’ policy where input from all shades of stakeholders were considered before the CHR was introduced,” he added. When the Bill for the introduction of Commercial Hub regulation was introduced in Parliament, it was challenged in the Supreme Court through a petition in the mid part of this year and the JAAF collective stood by the Bill and intervened as an interested party and cited its implementation justifiable as it was in the best interest of the country.
“The five year Strategic Plan of the JAAF which was rolled out in 2010 has outlined the significance of enhancing its present role as a manufacturing and supplying garments to a totally integrated solution provider for the international apparel sources, facilitating end to end solutions starting from research and development, supply chain services, logistics etc. Three years on, our achievement is significant,” he stated.
The Union Budget 2013-14 presented by finance minister P Chidambaram today, have cheered the textiles and garments industry immensely. The reason: the government has finally agreed to unanimously remove the excise duty on readymade garments imposed two years ago.
As A Sakthivel, Chairman, AEPC opines, “We thank the FM for accepting the demand of the industry to restore ‘zero excise duty route’ for cotton and manmade sector (spun yarn) at the yarn, fabric and garment stage. We also thank him for accepting the demand of the industry, for which lakhs of workers, entrepreneurs extend their compliments.” Sakthivel also appreciated the fact that the ministry shall continue TUFs in 12th Plan with an outlay of Rs 2,400 crores. The creation of apparel parks within SITP and Rs 10 crores allocation will go a long way in increasing exports of value added textile chain.
The industry also welcomed the allocation of Rs 1,000 crores for skill development and hopes that substantial allocation would be made for the readymade garments sector, which allows immediately absorption of workers, displaced from agriculture and undertake lot of responsibility of the government in solving employment problem.
On behalf of the domestic garments industry, CMAI welcomed the removal of excise duty on branded garments. “The industry, as so correctly described by the FM, is in the throes of a crisis, and this lifeline was desperately needed to bring back some vigor to this beleaguered sector. The reversal to the optional route not only provides zero per cent duty to the industry, it will also provide some form of protection to the domestic industry from cheap imports. Moreover, it will encourage foreign retailers setting up shop in India to manufacture in India, rather than import from outside,” said Rahul Mehta, President CMAI.
Experts point out this move will revive consumer sentiment as prices will reduce, and minimize the grey market. “It’s good for the whole value chain as consumer sentiment will revive when prices come down,” opines Aamir Akhtar, CEO, Arvind Lifestyle Fabrics. Agrees Rajiv Dayal, MD, Mafatlal Denim as he says “removal of duty will lower MRPs of garments and augurs well for the industry.” It will provide much needed boost to brands and manufacturers to scale up and move to the organized sector. With the industry going back on a growth path, one of the biggest positive fallout will be increased employment opportunities, especially for unskilled and semiskilled workers, and more specifically for women workers.
Ramesh Poddar, Chairman & MD, Siyaram Silk Mills feels, the Budget has brought a ray of hope for the industry. “We have been demanding this for a long time and finally our appeals have been heard. This move will ultimately benefit the consumer and help the industry grow. We also appreciate the fact that the government has allocated Rs 500 crores for environmental issues in the textile industry. This will help companies be responsible towards the environment and help them reduce their carbon footprint.”
Manish Mandana MD, Mandhana Industries says the whole industry is relieved that excise will go. “It’s fantastic news. People are thrilled because the excise hit their business. Paperwork became difficult. This is a huge relief for retail and clothing companies. About Rs 500 crore has been allotted for environmental issues in the textile industry. This is good and that’s what we need moving forward. Infrastructure will get better with this. About Rs 1,000 crores will be allotted to enhance youth skills. This is also a fantastic move. In India we have so much talent and potential that can help the industry grow this move will help bring in fresh blood in the industry.”
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