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International fashion retailer, Primark plans to expand the volume of its sustainably sourced clothes in categories such as denim and jersey this year. The company also aims to embed product guidelines on circularity by training colleagues and suppliers. Over the past 12 months, 3 per cent of clothes sold by Primark were circular by design as they met the criteria set out in Primark’s Circular Product Standard, including items in the Rita Ora and Disney’s The Lion King ranges.
Around 66 per cent of the clothes sold by Primark, over the last 12 months, were made from sustainably sourced materials, as per the brand’s third annual Sustainability and Ethics Progress Report. The company is also embedding sustainability commitments by introducing recyclable clothes to tackle textile waste.
To make sustainable clothes more affordable, Primark has launched a Durability Framework that aims to train fashion retailers to help consumers get more out of their clothes. The program is supported by research from environmental charity Hubbub and the University of Leeds (UOL) School of Design.
One of the key achievements for Primark during the last 12 months was the lowering of carbon emissions across its value chain. The company aims to halve carbon emissions across its value chain by 2030. In 2024, it reduced Scope 1 and 2 (market-based) emissions by 21 per cent, compared to 2023, and by 52 per cent as against the 2019 baseline. It achieved this by introducing energy efficiency measures in its stores and procuring renewable and low-carbon electricity. This year, Primark has also been able to reduce total carbon emissions across its value chain by 1.9 per cent since its 2019 baseline year and an 11.6 per cent decrease since last year. The retailer expects this reduction to fluctuate in the short-term as the company expands.
As the company mostly uses cotton to make its clothes, it plans to develop the Primark Cotton Project (formerly the Primark Sustainable Cotton Program) besides training cotton farmers on more regenerative agricultural practices. So far, the company has trained 3,000 farmers to use biological alternatives to chemical pesticides, and introduce cover crops that protect soil and create new revenue streams. Primark has also developed a roadmap to 2030 to drive further uptake of regenerative agriculture within the Primark Cotton Project. The company aims to continue learning as it gathers insights and data from across the Primark business, and forge meaningful collaborations across the industry to achieve its 2030 ambitions, says Lynne Walker, Director.
To create employment and boost textile sector in the state, S Savitha, Handlooms and Textiles Minister, Andhra Pradesh plans to establish textile parks in Pamidi and Rayadurg in Anantapur district, and in Emmiganur and Mylavaram in Kurnool.
As per Savitha, the government will set up weaver stalls across the state besides providing weavers with tools at a 90 per cent subsidy.
In 2015, the TDP Government had allocated 90 acre for a textile park in Emminganur, notes Savitha. However, the subsequent YSRCP Government cancelled this project and reassigned the land for the Jagananna Housing scheme. The government’s efforts were stalled by a court stay on the decision in 2019.
The current TDP government plans to revive this textile park project that is expected to generate around 5,000 jobs.
According to Minister Savitha, the state government will announce a comprehensive textile policy, with several MPs pledging their MPLADS (Member of Parliament Local Area Development Scheme) funds to support the establishment of weaver stalls.
She applauded Sathya Kumar, Health Minister for facilitating a mega textile park through the Central Ministry of Handlooms and Textiles, with an investment of Rs 30 crore, further enhancing the state’s textile infrastructure.
The proposed initiatives underline the government’s commitment to empowering the weaving community and revitalising the handloom and textile industry in Andhra Pradesh.
In a landmark decision that has ripples through the luxury fashion world, a US judge has blocked the proposed $8.5 billion merger between Tapestry Inc. and Capri Holdings. This move, initiated by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) on antitrust grounds, has sparked debate about the future of the American luxury market and its competitive dynamics.
A shifting luxury market
The proposed merger signalled a growing trend of consolidation in the luxury sector, with companies seeking to gain scale and market share through acquisitions. This mirrors similar trends in other industries, driven by the desire for increased efficiency and global reach. The merger, had it been approved, would have created a US-based luxury powerhouse to rival European giants like LVMH and Kering. This ambition reflects the growing strength and influence of American luxury brands in the global market.
However, the FTC's intervention highlights increased regulatory scrutiny of large mergers, particularly in sectors deemed to be important for consumer choice and economic competition.
Reasons for blocking the merger
The FTC's primary concern was that the merger would stifle competition in the "affordable" luxury segment, particularly in the handbag market. They argued that the combined entity would control a significant portion of the market, potentially leading to higher prices and fewer choices for consumers. The merger could also reduce competition for employees, potentially leading to lower wages and benefits.
For example, LVMH's acquisition of Tiffany & Co. (2021) which was a $15.8 billion deal, and one of the largest in luxury history, faced regulatory hurdles but was ultimately approved. It demonstrates the complexities involved in assessing the competitive impact of luxury mergers. Similarly, Kering's acquisition of Gucci (1999) transformed Kering into a major player in the luxury industry. It illustrates how strategic acquisitions can create global luxury conglomerates.
The blocked merger could create opportunities for smaller, independent luxury brands to gain market share. It also encourages continued innovation and differentiation in the market. However, the decision may hinder the growth ambitions of American luxury companies seeking to compete on a global scale. It also highlights the challenges of navigating antitrust regulations in an increasingly complex market.
While Tapestry and Capri plan to appeal the decision, the FTC's victory signals a potential turning point in the luxury fashion landscape. It remains to be seen how this ruling will impact future mergers and acquisitions in the sector, and whether it will ultimately foster a more competitive and diverse market for consumers.
Economic challenges in the Nordic regionrising inflation, high interest rates, and currency weaknesshave dampened consumer confidence in 2024. A Euromonitor survey found 38 per cent of Swedes and 26 per cent of Danes concerned about their financial security, with 20 per cent reporting increased debt and reduced savings compared to 2023. Generation X and millennials, key apparel and footwear buyers, are most affected, driving a shift in shopping habits.
Retailers have responded with frequent discounts and outlet expansions, catering to a growing preference for affordability and quality. Visits to discount stores in Sweden surged 38 per cent in 2024, with low prices and value-for-money emerging as top purchasing drivers.
However, apparel and footwear volume sales in the Nordics fell, contrasting with Western Europe’s 17 per cent growth in retail value. Sweden, facing steep price increases, experienced a 2 per cent drop in volume sales.
The pre-owned fashion market has flourished amidst financial pressures. Frequent second-hand buyers in the Nordics rose to 27 per cent in 2024, while those avoiding pre-owned goods dropped to 15 per cent.
Platforms like Tradera and Vinted have expanded, with Vinted acquiring Denmark's Trendsales. Traditional retailers are also embracing the trend H&M launched its ‘Pre-Loved’ concept store in Sweden, offering curated second-hand collections.
Looking forward, economic concerns and sustainability priorities are set to fuel further growth in second-hand fashion, with businesses adopting circular models poised to thrive.
Montane has partnered with Allied Feather + Down (AF+D) to feature ExpeDRY ultra-dry down in its fall 2025 down apparel collection. ExpeDRY represents a breakthrough in performance down, replacing chemical treatments with gold particles permanently bonded to down clusters. This innovation prevents water vapor from condensing into droplets, enhancing real-world performance and drying faster in home laundry with reduced energy usage.
Montane will use ExpeDRY in all its down jackets, becoming the first in the industry to do so. Matthew Betcher, Creative Director at AF+D, explained that while traditional water-resistant down performs well against direct water exposure, it struggles with condensation inside insulation chambers. ExpeDRY solves this issue by enabling water vapor to evaporate through the shell, keeping the down drier and more effective.
This technology removes the need for harmful chemicals like PFAS, supporting environmental sustainability. Matthew Betcher emphasized the importance of eliminating unnecessary chemicals to reduce environmental impact.
Montane’s Materials Manager, Liam Steinbeck, highlighted the collaboration, stating that ExpeDRY reflects the brand’s dedication to introducing innovative, high-performance technologies designed for extreme environments.
Developed with Fuze Technologies, ExpeDRY delivers superior performance compared to conventional water-resistant treatments, offering a cleaner, permanent, and eco-friendly solution. It promises unparalleled comfort and warmth with significantly lower environmental impact, setting a new standard for insulated apparel.
Partly driven by the political instability in Bangladesh, India's textile hub, Tiruppur, is experiencing a growth in orders from the US and UK after nearly two challenging years. The region's 5,000 apparel export units are now operating at 95 per cent capacity, a significant jump from 60-65 per cent capacity witnessed a few months ago.
KM Subramanian, President, Tiruppur Exporters Association (TEA), notes, new buyers from the UK are actively seeking samples from the region’s exporters with talks set to resume early next year. US-based companies are also redirecting orders to India, especially for the upcoming Spring season, as they diversify away from Bangladesh.
From Rs 35,000 in FY 2024, Tirupur's revenue is projected to rise to Rs 40,000 crore in FY 2025. India's apparel exports rose by 35 per cent to $1.22 billion in Oct’24 compared to $908.78 million a year earlier, signaling a broader trend of increased demand.
Punit Lalbhai, Vice Chairman and Executive Director, Arvind Ltd, affirms, credible garment manufacturers are experiencing high demand, making India a preferred sourcing destination for global buyers. Sanjay Jain, Chairman, Indian Chamber of Commerce's National Committee on Textiles, adds, US demand is bouncing back, following a period of reduced imports post-pandemic. Apparel exports are likely to grow to $18.5-$19 billion in FY25 up from $16 billion in FY24, with momentum expected to continue over the next two years, he projects.
Sudhir Dhingra, Owner, Orient Craft, observes, while many orders are shifting from Bangladesh to India, smaller Indian manufacturers may struggle to handle the volume. The government needs to introduce new incentives, such as a Production Linked Incentive (PLI) for garment manufacturing, and a better access to working capital loans for smaller units to capitalise on the opportunity, he adds.
The current political unrest has prompted many global brands to diversify supply chains, with India emerging as a key alternative, avers Lalbhai. UK clients are already increasing their sourcing from India in anticipation of the FTA, which could eliminate the current 12 per cent duty differential favoring Bangladesh, adds Sivaramakrishnan Ganapathi, Vice Chairman and Managing Director, Gokaldas Exports.
Indian exporters are witnessing a positive trend as US brands recover from excess inventory and start purchasing again, notes Ganapathi. Inventory levels have reached a low, prompting renewed demand, and the uptick in US apparel imports, benefitting Indian manufacturers, he adds.
Sympatex will present its innovative sustainability solutions at ISPO 2024, located in the Sustainability Hub (Hall A2). The company will highlight its Digital Fabric Library and Fiber2Fiber initiative, both key elements in driving a sustainable future for the textile industry.
The Digital Fabric Library offers transparent, digital access to material data, empowering sustainable product development decisions. This tool supports Sympatex’s fiber-to-fiber strategy, setting new industry benchmarks for circularity in textile production. By providing virtual access to a wide range of materials, it reduces physical resource consumption and carbon dioxide emissions related to fabric shipping.
On December 3, Carmen Keim, Colorist and Digital Pioneer at Sympatex, and Helena Gillerblad, PR and Communication at Sympatex, will lead the Greenroomvoice Sustainability Tour. Together with Greenroomvoice, they will showcase ten innovative partners presenting sustainable solutions at the hub.
A major highlight is Sympatex’s Fiber2Fiber concept, designed to close the loop on textile waste. This initiative recycles polyester fibers from discarded clothing, transforming them into high-quality materials for new fabrics. By embracing circular economy principles, Sympatex reduces resource consumption and supports the transformation of textile waste into valuable resources.
Kim Scholze, CSMO at Sympatex, emphasizes that sustainability is essential for the textile industry's future. The company remains committed to innovation by introducing new Fiber2Fiber products annually, advancing efforts toward a greener and more sustainable industry.
Sympatex invites all ISPO visitors to explore its Sustainability Hub poster and learn about its innovative solutions for a circular, digital, and sustainable textile future.
In a meeting held on Nov 18, 2024 in Uttara, Dhaka with Alexandre Saus-Salas, Head – Sourcing, C&A, Anwar Hossain, Administrator, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) explored the possibility of a collaboration between the two parties to enhance the global competitiveness Bangladesh’s RMG sector.
Both leaders also discussed about the current status of the Bangladesh's ready-made garment (RMG) industry, shifting global market trends, and potential opportunities for business expansion.
Providing an overview of the significant transformations within the country's apparel sector, Hossain emphasised on Bangladesh's leadership in global decarbonisation initiatives and its dedication to ethical sourcing practices. The nation currently holds the title for the highest number of green garment factories globally, with 230 factories certified by the US Green Building Council (USGBC) under the LEED program, he said. Additionally, more than half of the top 100 LEED-certified factories worldwide are based in Bangladesh.
Highlighting Bangladesh’s strategic move toward high-value fashion items, including synthetic fiber garments, Hossain encouraged C&A to expand its sourcing of premium products from the country. He also informed the company’s delegation about the ongoing investments in Bangladesh’s backward linkage industry, which are strengthening the competitiveness of the RMG sector.
Nike has launched a new sneaker collection tilted, ‘Air Max Muse’ for women. Embodying futuristic boldness, this collection has been developed using computational design by Nike footwear teams.
Can Eldem, Footwear Designer, Women’s Sportswear, Nike says, the brand’s aim was to design an entirely new Air Max model focusing on both expression and comfort. It aimed to make the silhouette sleek, beautiful and bold — while offering the kind of innovation and cushion that women expect from the Air Max franchise.
Sported by Nike athletes Jordan Chiles and Qinwen Zheng along with stylist Veneda Carter, these new sneakers have softly exaggerated proportions with their shape drawing attention to the iconic Air technology in the heel. The Air unit of these shoes is surrounded by a sleek, semi-gloss finish to further train focus on its namesake technology. A heightened arch adds a further distinctive, fashion-forward touch to them.
Serving as a foundation for diverse design expression, a molded synthetic leather overlay allows the Air Max Muse to adapt to ever-changing style trends. The upper showcases a mix of textures and finishes, creating a striking contrast that makes the shoe pop. Blending soft touch points with technical details, the Air Max Muse is a versatile sneaker suitable for any occasion. The collection will initially launch with a striking silver metal colorway, with a wider range of colors and textures set to follow throughout 2025, offering a spectrum of styling possibilities.
The brand aimed to explore how the finishes of the Air Max Muse could enhance the design while giving women a variety of choices that reflect their evolving style and mood, starting with the silver metal colorway, explains Marya Chan, Materials Design Director, Nike Sportswear.
The Air Max Muse will be available at select Nike retail partners starting Dec 11. The collection will be launched globally on SNKRS on Jan 10, 2025, with more colorways and styles to be introduced throughout 2025 and beyond.
An Italian innovation hub dedicated to reducing denim industry’s environmental footprint, Pure Denim has launched Komorebi, a unique denim capsule collection featuring silk yarns.
The collection was launched in collaboration with Cosetex, a company known for transforming silk waste into yarns and other textile materials.
A Japanese word, Komorebi is inspired by sense of suspended time and harmony between nature and poetry. The yarns used in this collection blend the ruggedness of denim with the refined qualities of silk. The fabric combines the strength of denim with the elegance, performance and natural quality of silk to achieve a perfect balance between durability and lightness, explains Silvio Mandelli, Owner, Cosetex.
The denims in this collection have been integrated with silk threads to give them a soft and natural glow. Their unique texture gives the fabric a warm and balanced luminosity, as well as a softness and light-reflecting surface that is unlike traditional denim. The denims contain up to 40 per cent silk, resulting in fabrics that are both elegant and authentic, while remaining durable. Furthermore, Cosetex's silk is cruelty-free, sustainable, and circular, holding certifications such as Oekotex, GRS, and GOTS, aligning with Pure Denim's commitment to responsible fabric production.
Komorebi denims also prioritise the comfort of the wearer, as the silk components prevent chafing and irritation, notes Mandelli. This advantage is due to the presence of silk proteins like sericin and fibroin, which are known for their compatibility with human skin. Sericin is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturising properties, while fibroin has applications in medicine for sutures and the reconstruction of blood vessels and ligaments.
A pioneer in silk innovation, Cosetex has developed various specialised silk yarns, T Silk paddings, and the T Silk Collection—products made and padded entirely with silk. The company recently collaborated with Casati Flock to create flock material by grinding leftover silk. They have also introduced g_Silk, a line of silk fabrics dyed using an exclusive process that incorporates recycled graphite powder. Developed in partnership with Alisea—a non-profit Italian ‘Società Benefit’ focused on material recovery, this dyeing method enhances the fabric's UV protection, representing a step forward in sustainable and innovative textile practices.
