Denim, the iconic fabric of rebellion and self-expression, faces a crossroads in 2024. While still a wardrobe staple, evolving trends and consumer preferences is leading to a dynamic shift in casual wear. Denim now faces competition from the revival of khakis. But is this a complete dethroning, or simply a wardrobe diversification?

Comfort reigns supreme

The ‘comfy-casual’ wave reigns supreme post-pandemic. Consumers seek relaxed silhouettes and versatile pieces. Both denim and khakis tap into this trend, offering breathable and easy-to-wear options. Skinny jeans are fading, replaced by wide-leg, relaxed fits prioritizing comfort. "Consumers are demanding more comfortable, versatile clothing," points out Yasmin Shah, Head Designer at Levi Strauss India. "Wide-leg denim offers that, while still retaining a stylish edge." Meanwhile cargo pants and overalls, inspired by workwear, are gaining traction too. "This trend reflects the desire for functional yet fashionable clothing," explains Hiroto Kimura, Design Director at Japan's Edwin Jeans. "Cargo pockets add a touch of practicality without sacrificing style."

Sustainability emerges strong

 Then there is a strong focus on sustainability with eco-conscious practices gaining traction. Brands are exploring organic cotton, recycled materials, and water-saving treatments, influencing both denim and khaki production. Eco-conscious consumers are driving demand for sustainable denim production. Brands like Nudie Jeans and Everlane are leading the charge with recycled materials and ethical practices. "We're using organic cotton and recycled materials," says Gabriela Perez, Sustainability Director at Spanish brand Desigual. "This resonates with a growing segment of our customers."

Personalization takes center stage 

Customization and self-expression are key today. Denim offers endless possibilities for distressing, embroidery, and patches, while khakis can be tailored for a perfect fit. While khakis are seeing a revival, they are not replacing denim entirely. Both denim and khakis are adapting to trends like comfort, sustainability, and personalization. Consumers are diversifying their wardrobes with both options, catering to different occasions and styles. Khakis are shedding their traditional image, with cropped styles, jogger fits, and even tie-dye patterns emerging. "We're seeing khakis reinterpreted for a younger audience," says Michael Koh, CEO of Singaporean brand Benjamin Barker. "They're becoming a more casual, everyday option."  

In fact, the lines between khakis and chinos are blurring, with fabrics and styles merging. "Consumers are looking for versatile pieces that can be dressed up or down," explains Sarah Jones, Marketing Director at American Eagle Outfitters. "This trend favors hybrid garments that offer both comfort and style."

Brands embracing both across geographies

Experts believe khakis and denim are not necessarily competing. "They cater to different needs and occasions," says Jean-Pierre Bertrand, CEO of French brand The Kooples. "Denim remains a go-to for casual wear, while khakis offer a more polished alternative." And across geographies the trend has caught up with brands offering both in tandem.

In the US for example, Levi's, the denim giant, is embracing comfort with looser fits and incorporating sustainable practices. Levis Strauss has launched a water-saving "WellThread" denim line, catering to the sustainability trend. Meanwhile, J.Crew is leading the khaki resurgence with updated chinos in various colors and cuts. US brand American Eagle Outfitters features hybrid "chino-joggers," blurring the lines between categories.

In Europe, Italian brands like Canali are offering premium khakis with innovative fabrics and refined fits. In France, Sandro focuses on relaxed denim pieces with feminine details. Desigual from Spain has incorporated recycled materials into their denim collection, aligning with eco-conscious preferences.

In Asia, Singapore brand Benjamin Barker offers cropped and jogger-style khakis, appealing to a younger audience. Uniqlo in Japan offers affordable, comfortable denim and khakis for both men and women. Japan's ‘UraHara’ Streetwear is the resurgence of loose-fit, distressed denim aligns with the UraHara (Harajuku underground) revival in Japan. Brands like Wtaps and Neighborhood showcase this trend, emphasizing individuality and comfort. Similarly, Edwin Jeans from Japan introduced a line of ‘Relax Fit’ cargo pants, tapping into the utility trend.

Denim holds ground as khakis emerge strong

So, is one replacing the other? Not necessarily. Denim retains its iconic status and versatility, particularly for younger demographics. Khakis are experiencing a resurgence offering a polished and comfortable alternative for work, travel, and even dressed-down occasions. It's more about expansion than replacing. Consumers are embracing both, creating a more diverse casualwear landscape. As Francesca Rissi, Director of Menswear Design at Etro (Italy) says "Denim will always be a staple, but khakis offer a sophisticated alternative for casual occasions." 

As for brands it also makes business sense, as Hiroaki Matsukuma, CEO, Uniqlo (Japan) explains: "Offering both denim and khakis allows us to cater to diverse customer preferences and lifestyles." The bottomline is the future of casual wear is not a binary choice between denim and khakis. It's a mix of diverse materials, styles, and values, reflecting the ever-evolving preferences of a global audience. Denim's evolution reflects changing consumer preferences for comfort, sustainability, and versatility. Khakis are not replacing denim, but rather adapting and expanding their appeal. Both fabrics have a place in the ever-evolving world of casualwear, offering distinct styles and functionalities. The future lies in brands that can cater to these diverse needs and preferences, ensuring both denim and khakis remain relevant and stylish for years to come.