"The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) aimed at gaining access to highly restricted factories in the Tamil Nadu with a ‘hygiene awareness’ program and use that as a platform for promoting workers' rights. Five years and $630,000 later, the ETI, which brings together labels like H&M, GAP and Burberry with unions, factory owners and civil society groups, has done little more than teach workers hand washing, rue critics. Nambi Chelliah of the Centre for Social Education and Development part of ETI's initial meetings points out, it is more of image management. Brands are using the ETI platform to safeguard themselves."

The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) aimed at gaining access to highly restricted factories in the Tamil Nadu with a ‘hygiene awareness’ program and use that as a platform for promoting workers' rights. Five years and $630,000 later, the ETI, which brings together labels like H&M, GAP and Burberry with unions, factory owners and civil society groups, has done little more than teach workers hand washing, rue critics. Nambi Chelliah of the Centre for Social Education and Development part of ETI's initial meetings points out, it is more of image management. Brands are using the ETI platform to safeguard themselves.

Workers' representatives debate that employees in textile mills and factories have not benefited, with fair wages, contracts and a workplace free of abuse is still a distant dream for most. But ETI is in no mood to accept these claims. It counters saying progress has been made in Tamil Nadu through community programs and peer groups at factories and mills that discuss rights beyond hygiene. Alok Singh, ETI's South Asia head, was quoted saying this is the only large-scale initiative that is working within mills to address such issues and to build the trust of all concerned. We are showing such programs can work to the benefit of all.

Fuel to fire

ETI has been in existence since 1998 to address issues like child labour and workers' rights in countries including South Africa, Thailand and Peru, it began focussing on India's textile workers in Tamil Nadu in 2012. Singh says when the program started there was no appetite for transparency among mills themselves.

ETI staff infiltrated high-walled compounds where employees live and work, and went about asking women how often they brush their teeth, when they wash their hands and how much they spend on sanitary towels. Posters demonstrating the correct way to wash hands were put up near restrooms and adolescent girls were told to eat more greens and fruits. They were also taught how to deal with menstrual cramps with diet and medication. The initiative has contributed to an attitudinal shift within mill managers, who have seen the benefits of treating workers better, and allowing workers to be educated on their rights, Singh said.

While ETI officials feel the initiative have met with initial success, critics deny this. As a trade union member questioned freedom of association is in (the ETI's) code, so is assuring fair wages and making sure there is no exploitation. How will workers eat more fruits if they can't afford 1t? Activists and labour rights charities say ETI has failed to get brands to map and disclose information on supply chains – from the cotton picked in the fields to the buttons stitched on the garments – which is key to ending exploitation of workers.

Tim Connor, lecturer at Newcastle Law School in Australia and co-author of a 2016 report on ETI's effectiveness highlighted if they were more transparent about their supply chains, it would make it possible for global advocacy organisations to increase public pressure on companies to take action to ensure respect for labour rights. However, Singh observes transparency would increase as the initiative progressed and move forward next five years, ETI expects to have access to clearer supply chain information from participating brands.