In a significant step towards speeding up the global shift to a circular economy, Accelerating Circularity, World Wildlife Fund (WWF), and BSR have announced a collaborative project, ‘Mapping Second-Hand Material Flows’. This initiative, supported by a kickoff grant from Laudes Foundation, aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of the route taken by used materials, paving the way for more sustainable and efficient resource utilization, with a particular focus on the second-hand clothing trade and global recycling industry.

The project addresses a critical knowledge gap: the lack of clear data on the movement and processing of second-hand materials. Currently, vast quantities of textiles, plastics, electronics, and other resources are discarded, often ending up in landfills or informal recycling systems with limited transparency. This lack of visibility hinders the development of robust circular economy strategies, especially when considering the social and environmental impacts on importing nations.

Closer look at second-material flow

The project will delve into the complexities of second-hand material flows, focusing on

Data collection and analysis: Rigorous data collection and analysis, building on current data and gathering new in-depth on-the-ground information, to map the journey of materials from collection points to processing facilities, including sorting, recycling, and reuse.

Identification of key stakeholders: Mapping the roles of various stakeholders, including collectors, sorters, recyclers, manufacturers, retailers, and crucially, exporters and importers, to understand their interactions and influence on material flows, and to promote equitable systems.

Environmental and social Impacts: Evaluating the environmental and social impacts of current practices, including waste generation, pollution, and labor conditions, with an emphasis on local environmental, social, and economic factors in importing countries.

Development of traceability systems: Exploring the potential for developing traceability systems to enhance transparency and accountability in the second-hand material market.

Case studies: The project will also be built around case studies from different regions and industries, with a focused approach to mapping in depth the second-hand material flows from key exporters (US, UK, EU) to five importing countries.

Actionable insights: The initiative aims to provide actionable insights on redesigning textiles for reuse, supporting local infrastructures, and aligning exports with legislative frameworks.

Human rights and livelihoods: Promoting opportunities to improve human rights, livelihoods, and environmental stewardship in importing countries as recycling systems scale.

The importance of mapping

The current linear economy, where resources are extracted, used, and discarded, is unsustainable. A circular economy, on the other hand, aims to minimize waste and maximize resource utilization by keeping materials in circulation for as long as possible.

Most important is the environmental benefit as by understanding and optimizing second-hand material flows, the project can help reduce waste, conserve resources, and mitigate climate change. For example, as per the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a circular economy for plastics could reduce the volume of plastics entering oceans by 80 per cent annually.

Also, a well-functioning second-hand material market can create new economic opportunities, including jobs in collection, sorting, recycling, and remanufacturing. Mapping material flows, particularly in the context of the global clothing trade, can also help identify and address social inequities within the waste management sector, ensuring fair labor practices, improved working conditions, and just transition pathways for circular systems globally. This work will build a more ground-proofed foundation for effective policy and infrastructure development.

The project is expected to deliver its initial findings within a timeframe, providing a valuable resource for policymakers, businesses, and civil society organizations working to advance the circular economy.