The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) International Working Group has released Version 4.0 of the worldwide recognized standard for processing of textiles made from at least 70 per cent or 95 per cent certified organic natural fibers. GOTS' core provisions such as the 70 per cent minimum content of certified organic fibers, the general ban on the use of substances from disputed techniques such as genetic engineering and nanotechnology, as well as carcinogenic substances, have been maintained in the new version. There are modified rules on permissible conventional ‘additional fiber materials’: these now may consist of regenerated, respective synthetic fibers -- up to 30 per cent -- provided they are environmentally-improved and certified. For regenerated fibers this means that the raw material must be from certified organic production, sustainable forestry management, or be certified recycled. For synthetic fibers, the raw material must be recycled and also certified according to recognized standards.
In the future, textile manufacturers will have a larger choice of fiber mixes if they also
use the environmentally-improved variants of regenerated and synthetic fibers. A wider product selection of GOTS-certified products will be made possible which will also support the increased use of organic fibers. In addition, the use of virgin polyester and angora is banned.
Processing is also regulated more strictly. As in every revision process, the latest insights regarding textile chemistry and residue testing methods were considered and various applicable criteria and limit values were reinforced. The already extensive list of banned substances and strict residue parameters was further extended. This will point out more clearly that all substances criticized by Greenpeace in their ‘Detox Campaign’ remain banned in GOTS. New criteria were adopted for specific product groups, such as textile personal care products or mattresses.
The GOTS social criteria are based on the International Labor Organization (ILO) key conventions, which include ban on child labor. The audit areas that need to be covered by the auditors during the on-site inspections were further specified. The GOTS 4.0 now expressly stipulates programs or certifications with the results considered during the GOTS inspection: Fair Wear Foundation (FWF), Social Accountability 8000 (SA800), Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) and the Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI). Fire prevention training and evacuation drills were added to the existing health and safety training requirements. The implementation period for GOTS certified entities to comply with the new criteria is one year after the announcement.
The Top 20 countries in terms of the total number of GOTS-certified facilities were (by rank): India, Turkey, Germany, China, South Korea, Italy, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Japan, Portugal, France, United Kingdom, United States, Austria, Switzerland, Netherlands, Greece, Denmark, Belgium and Sri Lanka.
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