This year, Milan’s menswear season kicked off with an innovative showcase by Federico Cina at the Fondazione Sozzani, located in the northern part of the Italian fashion capital.
Set on a brisk yet sunny winter afternoon, the event felt more like a Marina Abramović art installation than a traditional runway show. Crafted from dense, industrial-inspired wools, Cina’s collection was showcased with an authoritative and artistic flair.
Models portrayed characters performing daily rituals inside plywood boxes or on small stages, imbuing the garments with a sense of refined elegance. One standout moment featured a rocker-like figure in a perfectly tailored midnight blue blazer and peacoat, encircled by eight microphones, occasionally stepping forward to utter a solemn word.
Elsewhere, a young man in a white denim jumpsuit peeled white-painted oranges in a quiet corner, while a poised woman in a backless plissé handkerchief dress marched around an office chair, trapped yet determined, reminiscent of Orson Welles’ The Trial.
Cina named the collection ‘Assunta and Giacomo’ in honor of his grandparents, who passed away last year. The presentation was a testament to the Bologna-born designers’ talent and a fitting introduction to Fondazione Sozzani, a cultural hub founded by Carla Sozannai and currently led by Sara Maino, a well-known figure in Europe’s fashion industry.
Attracting scores of young designers, the event underscored Milan’s transformation from its post-war industrial roots to a modern epicenter of design innovation.
