"Global denim mills will congregate at Munich Fabric Start’s Bluezone in Munich, September 5-7, 2017 to present their Autumn/Winter 18-19 collections. Their major target is making a mark in the German and Northern European markets. These mills bring forth innovations and new product lines, with focus on sustainability and performance. For instance, Artistic Fabric & Garment Industries (AFGI) is working on the possibilities of sustainably-produced and recycled denim. Henry Wong, Director-product development and marketing, North America at AFGI, said fashion and performance jeans are more eco-friendly than ever when cut from AFGI’s denim made from recycled jeans and plastic bottles."

Global denim mills will congregate at Munich Fabric Start’s Bluezone in Munich, September 5-7, 2017 to present their Autumn/Winter 18-19 collections. Their major target is making a mark in the German and Northern European markets. These mills bring forth innovations and new product lines, with focus on sustainability and performance. For instance, Artistic Fabric & Garment Industries (AFGI) is working on the possibilities of sustainably-produced and recycled denim. Henry Wong, Director-product development and marketing, North America at AFGI, said fashion and performance jeans are more eco-friendly than ever when cut from AFGI’s denim made from recycled jeans and plastic bottles.

The Pakistan-based mill uses its new, advanced indigo dyeing technology, which saves a minimum of 50 per cent water compared to current industry methods, to provide true sustainable denim products that do not sacrifice aesthetics, softness and performance. Wong points out, even mercerisation chemical is recycled via state-of-the-art machinery. Project R, initiated by Tejidos Royo, offers a 360-degree approach to sustainability. This is a concept that reduces water, contaminants, emissions and energy. Debutant Royo is slated to use post-consumer denim as a raw material resource, diverting it from landfill and incineration. The Denim Recycled Collection is offered in stretch and stretch colours, including black, blue, brown, khaki and dark gray.

Royo is also introducing the Nanami Collection, a development based on the Japanese concept that creates an irregular effect and open construction in the fabric. Nanami denim uses the color 413, which gives the fabric a vintage appearance. The Nanami collection is based on Royo’s ‘Save Water, Fill Seas’ mission to minimise water consumption. The process utilises zero waste water in the dye process and reduces energy by 80 per cent.

Spotting trends

This platform will be highlighting major trends that the industry is set to bring in the next season. For example, Artistic Milliners is providing solutions to better suit new comfier cuts and nostalgic designs. The mill will present Sunday Jeans, a concept that uses smart fibres like Tencel and Modal to create supple blends and drapey constructions. Ebru Ozaydin, Artistic Milliners director of sales and marketing, said that the fabrics are engineered with the right amount of stretch to help designers create great looking fits with a soft hand feel. Bleisure by Royo is a collection of fabric with three-dimensional elasticity in length, width and depth. The versatile fabrics blur the line between business and leisure, resulting in styles with elegant, utilitarian and soft tailoring.

For brands wanting to bring in ’90s nostalgia, Artistic Milliners has created a collection of specific fabrics with the right aesthetics to create modernised ’90s fits. Ozaydin said that its 90210 fabrics take back to original Levi’s look of the era, revive and refresh a traditional palette for timeworn vintage appeal. The incorporation of stretch technologies provides a hidden comfort for the wearer paying tribute to iconic marble look and open twill.

Brazil-based Vicunha, a Brazilian brand, infuses vintage and authenticity with plain open weaves and ring effects for men and women. Retro shades of blue and darker, deeper dyes create a multitude of wash effects suitable for looser silhouettes and throwback styling. According to Vicunha, heavier weights, traditionally for the men’s market, are picking up momentum in women’s fashion. Atlantic Mills has a warp-only stretch selvedge, offering comfort from stretch but has the ’80s look of selvedge as it used to be worn. The mill uses 90 per cent BCI cotton and 10 per cent organic cotton in its range, including in its retro selvedge story.

Indian brand shining through

India’s top denim maker Arvind will be present with a story rich in indigo heritage. It will highlight Azurite, a collection of fabrics touted as ‘denim bluer than blues’. Made with indigo saturated fabric, with indigo in the warp and weft, Arvind develops deep blue hues targeted toward brands and designers with a pure love for indigo denim.

Performance Preferred

With growing eco-awareness, most companies are offering sustainable solutions in clothing. Artistic Milliners has recently launched Urban Commuter concept, which will focus on combining performance, sustainability and ‘climate control fabrics’ using natural eco-friendly fibres from Invista, Cordura and Lenzing.

Royo is bringing its new collection, ‘Atmosphere’. Aimed at outdoor activities that require maximum comfort and protection, the performance fabric provides thermal insulation and protects against rain, wind and cold temperatures. The fabric is made with high temperature resistant fibres and disperses body perspiration through ultrathin breathable hydrophilic lamination.

Vicunha will bring in its first temperature control denim with an expanded line that uses high-tech yarns from fibre producer Nilit. The mill introduces Body Fresh, a denim with antibacterial properties; Aquarius, a fabrication that wick moisture away from the body; and Breeze, a denim fabrication that maintains constant body temperature after physical activities or in warm climates.