Gucci showcased its first collection at the Milan Fashion Week since the departure of its Creative Director, Sabato De Sarno.
Presented at Superstudio Maxi, the fashion show to showcase the collection was accompanied by an original soundtrack from Oscar-winning composer Justin Hurwitz of ‘La La Land’ fame. Hurwitz conducted a live chamber orchestra for a front row that included François-Henri Pinault, CEO, Kering alongside celebrities like Julia Garner, Jessica Chastain, and Dev Patel.
Designed by Gucci's in-house team, the collection offered a blend of past and present, featuring nods to various decades. Highlights included '60s-inspired fur coats and mohair peacoats, knee-length skirts with side slits, tailored tunics, and Donegal tweed suits. '90s influences were also evident in slip dresses, oversized blazers, and bouclé mini dresses. Interlocking "G" print velvet dresses and semi-sheer skirts with velour leotards and gold stirrup pendants added a touch of glamour. The collection also featured new iterations of the 1955 horse-bit bag, emphasizing commercial appeal.
In contrast to the Alessandro Michele era, which often presented a more bohemian aesthetic, this collection exuded a refined elegance.
The menswear segment featured sharp tailoring, including double-breasted suits with elongated jackets and slim pants. Mohair cardigans were also prominent, though the repetition of similar coat designs in different materials raised questions.
The show concluded with the in-house design team taking a collective bow, all wearing Castleton green sweatshirts.
