"For quite a long time, athleisure has become the mainstay of many lingerie companies. But that scenario seemed a bit diverted at the recently ended Interfiliere exhibition in Paris when companies were back with what they do best – delivering fantastic lingerie fabrics in knits and lace for second-skin applications. The show highlighted the latest lingerie fabrics and trims for Spring/Summer 2018."

For quite a long time, athleisure has become the mainstay of many lingerie companies. But that scenario seemed a bit diverted at the recently ended Interfiliere exhibition in Paris when companies were back with what they do best – delivering fantastic lingerie fabrics in knits and lace for second-skin applications. The show highlighted the latest lingerie fabrics and trims for Spring/Summer 2018.

Changing dynamics

Fashion lingerie fabrics have embraced the legacy athleisure has brought to the arena, incorporating performance aspects into high fashion styling in stretch lace, micro fine single knits and urban-inspired embroidery. For sports intimates, it has become a lot more decorative with a stronger fashion styling. The increased decorative aspect of textile surface and use of colour is a trend that was noted as evolving in the products at the ISPO Textrends jury meeting.

Innovation was alive and kicking at Interfiliere as sensational new touch combined with reworked fashion offerings in both sports intimates and fashion lingerie. The added functionality from performance yarns and finishes is definitely here to stay. A contrasting play with dull and bright yarns indicated power zoning as well as adding optical detail without disturbing the smooth surfaces. Incredibly soft to touch, this season’s fabrics are also clean cut. Performance fibers aren’t just delivering a cool-touch finish, they are also morphing into amazingly cotton-like in touch. With this season’s offering of fabrics for the shaping market, there is no excuse from brands in creating new collections with the emphasis on style.

Penn Textile Solutions offered a lace band with engineered edge to eliminate additional seaming. The reduction of reduced cut-and-sew, resulted in smoother finish but it also reduced garment production. A hybrid blend of mercerised micro modal and nylon, with comfort meeting a super sensual touch in an interlock structure, perfect for intimates or active was one of Tintex’ new developments.

Sustainability top agenda

The importance of sustainability continues to be noted by the industry with the latest arrival on the branded fibre front coming from Eastman, who used Interfiliere to introduce their new yarn Naia, a cellulosic yard made from wood pulp from certified and sustainable managed forests. Due to the filament yarn construction, Naia not only has a sensational touch and high luster it also contains the performance benefits of stain resistance, moisture management and cool touch, guaranteeing it as a new bio-based alternative. Additionally, the sustainable aspect of the wood source combined with the inherent performance aspects, especially moisture management, eliminates the need for any further finishing, therefore improving its eco credentials.

Iluna chose the show to launch their Green Label collection with Roica Eco Smart spandex/elastane in Jacquardtronic and textronic articles. Eco Smart is more sustainable, an eco-stretch elastane that is GRS certified (Global Recycling Standard by Textile Exchange). Its production uses polymer science to repurpose up to at least 50 per cent pre-consumer waste.

As for business in this segment, today lingerie suppliers may be leading the way but this has opened a question on whether the industry has spread itself too thin, taken their eyes off target. Perhaps it’s time to consider focusing on best-selling products and eliminating slow sellers, this is applicable to textile supplies and brands. This new focus is very much about doing what you are good at, and building on that.