A cruelty-free and artificial-dye-free material, ‘Karuna Silk’ is currently being displayed in ‘Odisha Mandap’ at IITF 2024, that runs until Nov 27, 2024. Promoted by the Handlooms, Textiles & Handicrafts Department of Odisha, the live demonstration highlights a sustainable and ethical approach to silk production, transforming traditional methods.
Located at Bharat Mandapam, Odisha’s pavilion at the trade fair showcases the state’s diverse handlooms, handicrafts, tribal art, and rural products. Among these, ‘Karuna Silk’ is attracting significant attention, with live demonstrations illustrating the entire process—from silkworm cultivation to weaving. The final products, including sarees, fabrics, and modern jackets, are available for purchase at the government-run ‘Amlan’ outlet managed by the Directorate of Textiles.
Weavers from the Gopalpur region of Jajpur, Odisha, are actively demonstrating traditional techniques used to produce ‘Karuna Silk,’ at the fair.
The name ‘Karuna,’ which means compassion in Odia, reflects the unique, cruelty-free process behind this silk. Unlike conventional methods where live silkworms are boiled in their cocoons to extract the fibres, ‘Karuna Silk’ allows the silkworm to mature and transform into a butterfly, rupturing the cocoon naturally. Once the silkworm departs, the hatched cocoons are collected, and the silk threads are extracted. This method has become a compassionate alternative to traditional silk production, which can require thousands of cocoons—and silkworms—to produce a single saree.
In recent years, the Odisha government has introduced ‘Karuna Silk’ as the traditional ‘Khandua Patta’ for Shree Jagannath Temple in Puri, featuring verses from Poet Jaydev’s ‘Geeta Govinda.’ Weavers from Rautapada near Khorda are responsible for creating this special silk.
Odisha is home to four types of silk: Eri, Mulberry, Tassar, and Muga. Initially, Eri silkworms were used for ‘Karuna Silk,’ but the sustainable extraction now includes all four silk variants. The state is promoting silk cultivation across 22 districts.
In a shift away from synthetic dyes, the latest iteration of ‘Karuna Silk’ retains the natural color of the fibre, encouraging a new direction in Indian textiles. Plans are underway to incorporate natural dyes, using sources like mango and jackfruit tree bark, marigold flowers, and kumkum plants to create vibrant, eco-friendly fabrics.
By prioritising compassion and sustainability, ‘Karuna Silk’ supports a growing demand for ethical textiles, aiming to enhance the livelihoods of Odisha’s silk farmers and contribute to a greener textile industry.
